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It's more than a small ring, but yes, I agree the adapters are absurdly priced for what you get. It's a screw-down ring (like a filter with no glass) that screws onto the threaded lens tube (middle), a fixing ring to hold everything in place on the tube (left), and then the actual threaded ring...

When are you coming out? Are you staying on the island, or boat diving from the mainland? Zip seals are great for piece of mind, but they're expensive suckers. I'm giving serious consideration to converting my suit BACK to regular seals so I can use the new neck ring and silicon seal system...

Correct. Scott borrowed my camera (S90 in Fix housing with 28AD mount and attached Inon UFL-165AD, manual mode with 1x Inon D2000 strobe) for a few shots on a dive the weekend before last to take a few test shots and write that review. If I think about and find the time, I'll post some...

Glad to help. Here is my post from WetPixel which answered your question, in case someone else has the same issue:

I think it's the same Chinese OEM making the same light for two different companies. They're 100% identical except for the silk-screened company name. They definitely use 4x AAA batteries, in spite of the myriad of websites that mis-quote them as using AA. (I wish they did use AA, but they...

The Intova Wide is a different light from the Intova Compact you initially linked. The Intova Compact uses 3x AAA batteries and is a very narrowly-focused beam. It's not available in a wide version. (currently) The Intova Wide uses 2x CR123a Lithium batteries and is a wide beam. It might...

See: 65" Rubber Weight Belt with Wire Buckle

The Intova's are great little lights (I have one) but a little too hot for my tastes in a focus light. They're very nice lights, but you don't want to see a hot spot in your photos. This is why special-purpose focus lights have a very even beam spread with no focused hot spot. I dive with a...

I'm using the Fisheye FIX Mini LED Focus Light, which I really like, and which suits the cameras small size. Sometimes I wish I had a bigger brighter light, but it's a BIG step up in price to the next level (and the lights get a LOT bigger at the next level up, too).

He has the $200 Fix 67mm adapter, to which he connected the cheap 10bar 67toAD adapter, to which he connected the Inon UFL-165AD lens. Unless I'm remembering incorrectly.

My thought on that is that the DM was too used to dealing with weight-integrated BCs and not accustomed to weight belts. Else dropping the weights first would have been the clear course of action. No idea if that's what actually happened, but it's certainly plausible.

What's the model # of that one? Looks similar to the BJ2000-09E but a little different. Edit: Nevermind, found it: Citizen Promaster Sensor AL0000-04E Looks good, but I prefer the solar charging of the BJ2000-09E to avoid battery changes. Nice that it has a real seconds hand, though.

Frankly, that's been my issue with a number of dive lights that I've liked. I really liked the Glo-Toobs. They've cheerfully replaced 3 of them for me. And I really liked my Pelican Recoil light. They've cheerfully replaced 4 of them. And I really liked my PrincetonTec Eco Flare (LED)...

I agree. Although my point was more wondering if parts are even available to actually convert the older models, or if they physically revised the reg to allow a DIN model to be made for the first time.

Interesting and good to know! Although, manufacturing a DIN version of the first stage and offering a kit that lets you convert an existing reg from one format to another isn't necessarily the same thing. I'd be pretty interested in knowing if that was possible, though... it would give new...

I could be mistaken, but I don't think it exists. I have one that I looked into converting mine at one point, and IIRC conversion to DIN was only an option on the higher end regs (meaning, nearly every AL reg other than this bottom of the line one), like the Titan, etc.

Sorry... the dive this weekend was scrubbed. Swell is too big for the area we were planning to dive, vis would be piss-poor and not worth the boat charter. I'm bummed, but testing with the UFL-165AD will have to wait until local conditions improve some more...

I lose signal for a second or two every once in a while, but it always comes back just by bringing my arm a little closer to the transmitter. (I normally dive with arms in front of me, and I have long arms, so it's a little farther than most) I use Inon strobes, which don't seem to affect...

I almost never use Auto... NEVER underwater, and not especially often on the surface. But you know, I DO expect my $400+ camera to take decent snapshots at a party or restaurant or family dinner without having to resort to specialized modes and manual controls, when all I want a freaking...

It might just be my camera, as I explained in a later post. One issue I've noted with Auto mode, however, is that it FORCES continuous focus to be on. Continuous Focus cannot be disabled, and while it sounds like a great, it can actually cause simple, static, non-moving pictures that would...