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The atmosphere is 0.045% Co2 your exhaled breath 4-5% so ~100x higher. The Co2 getting into the keg through opening and closing and the walls of the polyethylene keg itself is inconsequential

You can use this H valve as a way to take the ice diving course in the immediate future sure. But it's a dead end. As soon as you actually get doubles and switch to them, you'll be looking at the weird valve in your scuba shed wondering why you bothered to spend 50 euros on it in the first place.

Just take the doubles primer, I have an H valve and it's really a dreadfully poor mismash of knob directions and reg to knob conflicts. Also nearly the price of a manifold anyway.

Tell us more about the dive? Is there a raging current? Are you in a cave swimming against that current? Is the water temp 2C, 7C, 20C, 25C? Is it a silty overhead? Is the visibility 2m, 10m, 50m? Are you surveying or collecting data/information that requires math or legible notes? How long...

It was late, forgive me father for I have sinned and forgot the magical 4th stage on that horrendous MCH6

Unless there is actual blood in the water Padi will do nothing. You're wasting your time just name the shop here and find someone else to patronize

That's a whole lot of swimming at 30+m on air dil. I am leaning heavily on WOB and CO2 retention as well - moreso than any kind of breakthrough

You're chances of finding these are next to nil. Those of us diving CCRs are not going to part with the bottle side. You can still buy them new if you wish to stick with the Tiger brand. Tiger Gear Tiger Pony Bracket | Dive Right In Scuba - Plainfield, IL

Third cylinder ring blow by. Basically it's a super cheap compressor and not expected to last.

You're fine. The worst of the worst case is a neck seal failure on the surface. Flooding, loss of buoyancy. Can you stay on the surface in a single steel of air with a 35lb wing? Yes more of less if you ditch some lead. I would not upsize.

Based on the dimensions or? Scott rebranded Luxfers were mostly the 7/8" UNF necks. It's (remotely) possible they are 3/4" NPS or even some other thread though.

They are thin wall & high water capacity, so super buoyant. Thus, not really desirable as scuba tanks. The necks are mostly likely 7/8"x14 UNF so the same valves as an old exemption series steel tank. Those will be 300 bar DIN and super annoying. They are probably 45cf - so small, buoyant...

Deco efficiency is not the purpose of the 20ft flushes

I usually use my flush muffs for about 12-15mins in the driveway since I only have access to cold water. The flush port won't open the thermostats - while starting up and running it gets the whole innards warm to hopefully dissolve more salts. The salt away (I still have like 1/2 a gallon) is...

Salt Away is advertised for the purpose of motor flushing but I have no idea how well it works relative to other descalers. I've only done it perhaps twice in 300 engine hours. I use a large rubbermaid tub and then catch the telltale stream in a 5 gallon bucket off to the side and pour that...

You're not doing anything wrong. To really get all the way up to 1.6 at 20ft takes a serious effort, lots & lots of O2 (to basically dry out the loop), and some breath holding. It's usually do-able in a cave. Midwater forget it.

Your questions were answered - multiple times. Do you internet much? Because this was 3 clicks deep on the DAN insurance website. Compare plans > USA > Florida Two clicks deep at Dive Assure

My god this is a nasty. What descaler are you using? I've used a giant bucket of salt-away in the past, but I only have a 60hp Yam. Edit ok finally got your link to work McMaster-Carr Have you had any issues with this removing paint or other damage?

Since you hate DAN so much, and spending more time and energy ranting here than researching your insurance options, just look at a different insurer. Here's an example, be sure to click the button *on the right* for policies written in FL. https://diveassure.com/en/diving-insurance/

Which part is stuck? The washer is usually plastic and you can spear it with a dental pick. The copper disk itself (if stuck) is best removed by putting the valve on a tank with a towel over the disk hole. Pressurize the tank (e.g. with a transfill whip) until the disk ejects into the towel.