Search results

Ditch the SPG's and use just the transmitters. Better than POS button gauges, and practically speaking, if you lose your ability to monitor your gas, you're ending the dive anyway.

This is my favorite scene in Armageddon. Ironically, dude's a goofy Swede.

I have no doubt that they may implement some sort of code that would change the NDL based on heart rate. However, considering the....fluidity of decompression, this sounds like they're measuring with a single particle detector, marking their line with the un-gassed remnants of a can of krylon...

Best of luck. You've had several highly experienced sidemount divers that have offered help from the very beginning, yet you've chosen to ignore that advice and continue wandering through the woods until you hear the banjos. That's not refinement. If you've got the time to go sidemount poorly...

Dude, what part of Don Pierce in Seattle or John Nunes in BC did you miss, how many pages ago? If you can't even be bothered to spend one day traveling to see an instructor for even an hours worth of pool time, you should just go back to backmount. You've wasted more time dicking around here...

Marketing wank is never an "advantage."

Re-read page 3....then: GO TAKE A SIDEMOUNT COURSE.

Even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and again.....

Bolt snaps go on the opposite side of the tanks. They go in line with the valve opposite the hand wheels. Use the 5th port with the tanks rigged correctly and there's no bend in the inflator/drysuit hoses. Rig your loop bungees like the Steve Martin picture you posted. Ditch the bolt snaps on...

Where are your bottom bolt snaps in relation to your valves? Why are you not using your 5th ports?

Mine doesn't suffer from this so I can't visualize what you mean. Everything of mine is knotted to the hardware except the plastic side lock buckle that just shortens it. If that breaks it's not gonna go anywhere, it just doesn't have a "stowed" position anymore.

Retractors WILL break eventually. Your best bet is to get one of the coiled tethers and replace the plastic connector on the diver side with a stainless bolt snap, and choke the small loop through the hole on the tray. This way, there's no plastic clip to break off your d-ring, it stows short so...

They dry super fast and drain very easily. They're designed for sneaky guys doing over-the-beach type of stuff, and they're much better than booties for actual traction on different surfaces. I like the mid for spring straps, low for rubber straps. I have two pair, one for my drysuit that are...

Lol, ok. I'm sure Randy appreciates the extra profit.

Buy a pair of neoprene or lycra socks, then buy a pair of Altama "Maritime Assault" lows or mids. They come in real sizes and widths. I've thrown out every pair of booties i own and dive these exclusively. Diving booties are low quality trash in comparison. Altama Maritime Assault - Low

@doctormike any recommendation?

If you're mimicking that bungee setup, that's part of your problem. Like I said earlier, put a bolt snap around the neck for the d-ring when you're out of the water. In-water, the bungee goes behind the neck of the tank valve and hooks around the crossbar/burst disc stem. It's not just laying...

Get this with the volt meter ends so that you can check values with a multimeter instead of going through the head. Should be the same type of cable, just no SMB. If you've got a corroded cable in the head, you're never gonna be able to test anything accurately because you'll just be validating...

I'm curious what do you think you'll be carrying that 4 (enormous) d-rings will not provide adequate space? Standard is 3, and carrying 3 stage/deco cylinders on one side plus everything else a diver needs to carry is not an issue.

You've already got 6 d-rings, why on earth do you think you need another tiny one welded to a tri-glide?