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I agree with most of the original list. Definitely need to include DSS computer/bottom timer boots. I wouldn't buy a computer that didn't have one of these mounts. I'd also add flashlights clipped to D-rings and held in place with bicylce innertube (tech/DIR style), and the UK LED/reflector...

I did this a couple of weeks ago after one of my SPGs developed a really violent leak. Turns out one of the two o-rings on the spool had practically split in half. The process to swap o-rings takes 2-3 min. PM me with your address if you'd like me to toss a few -003 o-rings in the mail to...

I just got back from diving this light, plus an earlier light that I had built. Both lights did well during three 40 min dives to 80'. The first light that I had made used a very small reflector, and the beam is crap- the light just goes everywhere. However, the light described in this post...

I was pretty worried about the heat transfer, but it seems to work just fine with the 10W LED, and 0.30" of Delrin surrounding the aluminum heat sink, as long as the lighthead is surrounded by water. I wanted to machine my own light head to have a fully put together look, and to know it was...

Very nice switch, but you are right, I don't have the space for that. :D

Good question. At first, I wanted to ensure that I was getting a great seal, and getting some redundancy in case there was a small fiber or something sitting on the o-ring. Of the four o-ring locations on the light (canister lid, lighthead glass, and the two glands, this is the only seal that...

Thank you! I really appreciate it. -Todd.

Thanks NetDoc! Everything works fine. Now that it is fixed, I was able to post my new thread on making a LED dive light: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/do-yourself-diy/363906-10w-led-light-delrin-canister.html Could I beg a favor from someone? My test thread got moved & re-titled from...

Definitely post some pics when you are finished! The P7 LED has been out for a while, and I keep wondering about the efficiencies of a newer LED. It would be nice to not generate as much heat. What are you using for the driver?

Canister drawing: Canister Lid drawing: Aluminum Heat Sink: Lighthead: Components & costs: And now that this is done, I think I'm going to have a beer!

After getting everything together, I took the full light for a ride in my new Cornelius keg, to a simulated depth of 140’ for one hour. I did a 20 minute burn test in a bucket of water, and everything was fine, the beam stayed nice and white, and didn’t start to turn blue. Beam shots show a...

I began the light head with turning down a Delrin rod to 1.90” for the first 2.50”, and then open up to a 2.10” diameter for the next 1.25”. I then bored a 0.55” hole into the first three inches of the center of the rod, and tapped it with the M16x1.5 to accept another Agro gland. At...

I began with a 35mm reflector for the LED, and turned off the lip of the reflector, and also removed all of the threads on the bottom of the reflector. I then bored the hole out to 3/8”, to allow for mounting a SSC P7 LED in the reflector. The LED is epoxied to an aluminum star heat sink...

The lid of the canister has two grooves for installing barrel seal o-rings, a 15/32” through hole for mounting a toggle switch, and an Agro gland for passing the 18 gauge 2 strand Carol cord. I prefer the DS-116 switch over the ones sold by Salvo / Light Monkey because they are smaller...

Last year I built a Delrin canister LED light for myself, using an SSC P7 LED, and a Taskled HipCC driver. The canister and light head were both made from Delrin, using an inner aluminum head sink to hold the LED, reflector and driver. This first design left the switch boot totally exposed...

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