Search results

According to an earlier thread, the reg is a re-branded Aqualung Micron .....I have no idea if that is correct but if so a Micron pin will work. An AL dealer can get them.....odds are service kits are a lot cheaper too. https://scubaboard.com/community/threads/sidewinder-first-stage.614147/...

Been on Bonaire many time and never needed an adapter or converter. However I always bring an outlet strip because most places don't have enough places to plug things or it's in the wrong place.

It may or it may not, there are 2 types of threads on the AK, the early ones had a standard US Diver thread (custom for USD) , the later ones had a metric thread. Which you have I can't tell just be looking at the photo . To be honest, unless you have a really good reason for DIN, just stick...

If all you are trying to do is convert a DAAM to a balanced first stage, just to find a RAM nozzle and replace the nozzle in a DAAM. The pin will also have to be replaced but rounding up those parts is not hard using Conshelf or Titan parts. I know I have some DA nozzles but there might be a...

First thing is to see if it has the original RM parts are still in it, odds are that it may have already been converted. If not, I suggest you not convert it, the RM is pretty rare and should be kept in it's original condition. You can replace the HP seat and balance chamber with ones from a...

You might want to consider visiting the Down Under Dive Club. It's based in Cary but all are welcome. Lots of events and fellow divers to dive with, next dive outing is at Mystery Lake in a couple weeks. Down Under Divers Club – Down Under Divers Club

Unfortunately I am no longer making the tools and do not have any remaining. To service most of the USD/Voit DH regs you need some way of holding the body of the reg, something to remove the body ring with, something to remove the nozzle with and something to help assemble the nozzle with. A...

I had my tank (AL-80) fall from standing up to the ground off a truck tailgate on Bonaire. Zeagle reg. It bent the yoke and the nozzle but it kept on working the rest of the week and while a little more difficult to get it to seal, it never failed. ...And no I NEVER leave my reg/tank standing...

One thing to keep in mind, the banjo will NOT work with the short yoke on many of the earlier USD/Voit regs. You must have the long yoke to use them.

PADI version doesn’t really teach you much , more of an arial view rather than a how to class. Besides the VDH and some youtube videos, I would suggest getting a copy of "Regulator Savvy" Regulator Savvy Book | Scuba Tools it is an in depth book on how regulators work, a must reading IMO...

Then I guess I will just copy and paste my answer from years ago. :)

Don't know if you have dove these regs before but if not, be aware they are prone to squeal when you breath at higher tank pressures. Not all do but it's not uncommon. We have used them up to 3k but they work a lot better once you get below 2k or so.

Not the first old piston reg I have rounded up parts for. :)

They may work but are more prone to doing unwanted things. They may excessively change IP due to compressing around the stem more than a harder one would or may extrude out, leaking anywhere from slight to a big flow. Not saying they won't work but don't be surprised if you have issues with it.

Typically, a 90 durometer is used where there is a large pressure differential , the piston stem for example -3k to atmosphere and a 70 durometer is used where there is a less differential like the piston head- 135 to atmosphere. Most all of the older regs used Burna N, they will work fine...

I had to pleasure of diving with him on several trips. He was a great guy and will be missed.

Just put them in plastic sandwich bags, squeeze the air out and put a rubber band around them.

I wash them the same way. Before you do, take a very good look at them, stretching them around the small end, esp in the first small ring. It's not uncommon for the horn to cut a small hole in them at that point. It's hard to see but causes issues with water getting in the hoses. The silicone...

First thing you have to do is covert those sillymeter measurements to inches. :) The end can be flat...and should be on a plastic one, the tabs on the end are for holding the LP seat when you are installing the nut that holds it in but are not used for holding the LP holder in place while...

Take a close look at the area where the hose attaches to the housing, some Sherwoods were prone to cracking in that area. If they are cracked, then they are parts only but otherwise they are fine second stages assuming the price is right.