DIR- Generic Cold water dive gear recommendation

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Wouldn't lower salinity in the water indicating need for a higher volume wing? Meaning that in the Baltic sea there might be requirment for larger wings than for the north-atlantic.
If the buoyancy of the rig is the determining factor for wing size, the additional lift needed would be at most 2.5% of the rig's dry weight -- so 1 kg tops? That also assumes you don't have lead on the rig. Since the wing's lift shouldn't be that close to start with, I wouldn't worry about it.

On the other hand, if you do have lead on the rig (i.e., gas and exposure suit buoyancy are the determining factors), you'll be reducing it anyway for lower salinity and still won't need a bigger wing.
 
Welcome to the outskirts of civilization. The weather here sucks donkey's cojones, but the nature is wonderful.
Everybody is claiming the same, but I happen to be the only Greek that really hates the sun and performs optimally at 2 degrees in a T-shirt. So, for now I am excited to go just for the weather.
College or work? If college, I can introduce you to the local student diving club. If work, there are two "adult" clubs to choose between. I know people in both of them.
I ll be working at SINTEF and I will be collaborating very closely with NTNU, advicing some NTNU students. From the information they have send me they have many sports clubs (not sure if they also have for scuba) that are shared or they are in close ties with NTNU. I think I will try to wait a bit and see which clubs I can join when there. I don't see myself diving before my Drysuit Primer class and I am not sure how much time this might take.

I will pm you for sure if I have trouble finding a club. I appreciate your offer!
I would seriously consider joining a club. There's one LDS here offering outings, but a lot of the local diving activity is in clubs. A rather different culture compared to the commercial system found west of the pond.
I ll join a club for sure. it might be impossible given the workload etc, but I will aim for 4 dives a week. Difficult (or highly non advisable) to accomplish alone. :p
The only dudes using Al tanks here are tech divers. For stage tanks and such. Backgas is always in steels. Typically twin 12Lx232bar if you're a tech dude, single 12x232 if you're rec. Some of us rec dudes also use single 300bar tanks (typically 10L or 12L). I'd look at buying tanks over here due to different regulations between US and Europe. There are used tanks on the market, you can save some money there. Either Facebook or finn.no (our version of Craigslist)
Awesome. I ll start browsing a month before I arrive. worst case I hope I can purchase a twin set from the LDS.
Regs? The most common reg brands over here are Apeks and Scubapro. I'm pretty sure there are other good regs, though. Just make sure it's cold water certified. Me, I'm partial to diaphragm regs.
From the previous comment it looks like I am directed towards MTX-RC to resolve any potential routing issues. I think I lean towards Apeks, since they are a bit more affortable in Europe.
Drysuit is compulsory. You can do fairly well below in a 7 mil WS, but the SI is going to suck donkey's cojones. If you want to be comfortable after the dive, go dry. We normally have topside temps from some 15C down to below freezing. Not considering wind chill. Good luck getting warm again if you're wet. Neo or shell, that's a matter of personal preference.
Thanks for the info. I guess I will just have to wait for my drysuit.
A new, thick, snug hood. Preferably some ten-ish mil if you're planning to dive between Oct and Apr, at least seven. Drygloves. And drygloves. And drygloves. If you can afford them. Otherwise you should go for 6-7 mil 3-fingers. They make a ton of a difference. With wool liners. If you PM me I can tell you what kind of gloves and liners I use and where I get them. A lot cheaper than the stuff they sell at the LDS and just as good. You'll never regret those investments, and diving without a hood is... something I'd never, ever do over here. Not safe. A serious knife (type BFK) is compulsory, we have no limitations on that. Perhaps a catch bag. Comes in great if you want to stab a wolffish. They make a great supper.
PM sent.
Depends.

If you dive no-stop, a good undergarment should be enough. If you plan on hanging some time for deco, a heated vest may be a good investment. It helps, though, if you carry enough weight to not having to run your DS really tight. Weight = air = insulation.

I like to add a kg or two to my belt during winter (3-5 degrees C water)
I think I am at least 1-2 (or more) years away for deco dives. I guess I a heated vest is something I will invest if needed in the future but not during the first dives.
The current young whippersnappers are taught English from 1st grade, and most Norwegians are fairly competent in English. To the extent that foreigners in Norway don't learn the language since we more or less automatically switch to English if the other person isn't proficient in the local language.

IOW: Don't worry.
Oh, I know people that they have been to Norway for more than a decade and they survived only with English. That's not my fear. Their groups seems to run mostly in Norwegian (to be expected ofc) and random posts in English from a random Greek in Trondheim might be a bit off-putting. I am in contact already with two GUE C1/2 divers from Norway though and we will discuss this weekend.
Fue is a great store. Really competent and with a wonderful offering. And they've drunk the GUE kool-aid. Located in Oslo, though, so perhaps a bit complicated for the OP. There are two LDSs in the town OP is going to. Both have their strengths and limitations.
I ll be interested to the more DIResque a s expected. Feel free to share your recommendation with the response of the PM I sent you.
Well. I've been diving dry for some 10+ years, and I can comfortably count on one hand the times I've missed a pee valve.

Just prepare properly, and you may do quite well without glueing a condom to your junk if you dive no-stop.
That will be lovely.
I believe you're overthinking stuff. Unless you're really, really minimizing your weighting, the density difference between brackish (Baltic sea) water, fjord water or Atlantic water isn't very significant.
That was an academic question to a quote from another user. Indeed my weighting is exactly the same both in the Atlantic and Mediterranean sea, and I think they have a higher difference in salidity.
If you're driving at summer, occasionally above the speed limit.

If you keep close to the speed limit, account for some 7-7.5 hours driving Trondheim-Oslo, plus breaks.
Good to know. That's another random question:
Everybody I have spoke up to that point from SINTEF, including the director of the entire facility, have no car (which looks awesome to me). Is having a car in practice a prerequisite for diving in Norway, or the clubs might assist on the transportation etc?
 
If the buoyancy of the rig is the determining factor for wing size, the additional lift needed would be at most 2.5% of the rig's dry weight -- so 1 kg tops? That also assumes you don't have lead on the rig. Since the wing's lift shouldn't be that close to start with, I wouldn't worry about it.

On the other hand, if you do have lead on the rig (i.e., gas and exposure suit buoyancy are the determining factors), you'll be reducing it anyway for lower salinity and still won't need a bigger wing.
Awesome. Thanks.
 
Without reading the whole thread, I will say that...

Very cold water.
Very cold fingers and toes.

Cold air on the surface. Do let your regs to warm up in the above freezing water.
OK, I guess I start to regret moving. xD
Apeks DS4/DST/TEK first stages at 9bar IP and ATX/XTX second stages screwed tight are probably good. That's what I'm using in +2C...+4C. Modern Poseidon is an option too, if service is available.
Check with your team.
People claimes some issues with routing for the DS4s and DSTs(?). I ll check with some future teamates this weekend.
Warm socks.
Heavier rubber fins.
I hope my Jetfins are enough.
Certified or resistant?
Well, if there was an absolute agreement from everyone in the thread, regulators that are environmentaly sealed is a must.
 
NTNU has a good diving club with good facilities: Dykkergruppa

Having a car is a good thing for diving in Norway, especially if you aim for four dives a week. However, the student diving clubs often collaborates with some kind of car-sharing to go diving.
 
People claimes some issues with routing for the DS4s and DSTs(?). I ll check with some future teamates this weekend.
Routing does not affect safety unless you do something VERY special.
- TEK3 are optimal for backmounted doubles as far as I know.
- DST are convenient for stages (as they have a nice rotating turret).
- DS4 are nice because they are small and lack that horrible rotating turret (same as DST)(and their house routing sucks unless you dive a back mounted single)
I hope my Jetfins are enough.
Perfect!
 
NTNU has a good diving club with good facilities: Dykkergruppa

Having a car is a good thing for diving in Norway, especially if you aim for four dives a week. However, the student diving clubs often collaborates with some kind of car-sharing to go diving.
Awesome. Thanks. I guess I'll try to check also with the GUE buddies there.
 
Routing does not affect safety unless you do something VERY special.
- TEK3 are optimal for backmounted doubles as far as I know.
- DST are convenient for stages (as they have a nice rotating turret).
- DS4 are nice because they are small and lack that horrible rotating turret (same as DST)(and their house routing sucks unless you dive a back mounted single)
Good info. I 'll give a second look also on the TEK3s.
 
Everybody I have spoke up to that point from SINTEF, including the director of the entire facility, have no car (which looks awesome to me). Is having a car in practice a prerequisite for diving in Norway, or the clubs might assist on the transportation etc?
It's possible, but of course not entirely practical.

If you join a club, I'm pretty certain it'll be possible to hitch a ride with one of the other members on club outings. And that makes for anecdote time: Before the corona hit us, I was a bit desperate for a dive and asked to join a trip with the student club. I was warmly welcomed and a little puzzled at that. Until it turned out that they were one car short of getting everyone with their gear down to the harbor...
 
It's possible, but of course not entirely practical.

If you join a club, I'm pretty certain it'll be possible to hitch a ride with one of the other members on club outings. And that makes for anecdote time: Before the corona hit us, I was a bit desperate for a dive and asked to join a trip with the student club. I was warmly welcomed and a little puzzled at that. Until it turned out that they were one car short of getting everyone with their gear down to the harbor...
Having a car can make you (more) popular in some diving clubs 😂
 
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

Back
Top Bottom