Trip Report East Bay Resort: South Caicos Oct 2 - 9, 2021

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tridacna

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I just returned from a week at the new Reef Diver's resort in South Caicos: East Bay Resort. This was a reschedule of a reschedule originally planned for LCBR in 2020. I posted in the Bahamas forum because it's the closest I could find to the T&C.

Travel: Getting there is a psychological ordeal. You have to be fully vaccinated, get an Antigen negative test within 72 hours of travel and purchase special "health" insurance in the unlikely event that you test Covid positive on the way back. Once armed with all of that info, you complete a somewhat confusing form as per TCI regulations and the wait for approval begins. We were a large group of divers (20) and the wait was horrifyingly slow. Some people received instant approvals. Others had to wait until 2am on the Sat morning of travel. Less that 6 hours before lift-off. It was handled horribly by the TCI authorities. It should not take 3 days to issue these approvals. The three top industries in the T&C are tourism, tourism and more tourism. People were ripping out their teeth in frustration. Two divers who were departing on the Friday prior and spending a night at an intermediary city were told that they would not be boarded on the first flights by their airlines because TCI had not yet authorized their documents. Miraculously both received authorization 10 minutes before their flights. I spoke to several other passengers on the flight over who confirmed similar stories. The TCI authorities need to fix up this mess - it's a lousy way to start a vacation.

Once in Provo, we took puddle-jumpers to South Caicos. About a 20 minute flight made much more interesting when one of the Cessna's engines burned up 5 minutes after take-off and had to return to Provo. Those passengers had to wait for the first plane to return and then ferry them over. We were mostly all at the resort at about 4 pm.

Some background: South Caicos is a remote island of about 8 square miles. Aside from an aging fishing fleet, not much else happens on the island. There is some development happening on a minor scale with disastrous major ecological consequences. The developers destroyed an important mangrove swamp - little is done to enforce laws. Corruption is endemic. We went on a tour of the island (more later) and it was tragic to see the consequences of developer greed. There are some abandoned saltpans with a lot of interesting birdlife including many flamingos and packs of wild donkeys roaming around. The resort offers a free ride into town but it's really not worth the effort - there is nothing to see or buy.

Resort: Rooms are spectacular. I've been diving all over the Caribbean and NOTHING comes close. Each room has an amazing ocean view. They are large and newly furnished with kitchens, dining room tables, full size refrigerators and washer/driers. You need way less clothes than you think. Bring some Tide pods and you're set. Showers and bathrooms are magnificent. Divers sharing a room each get a separate bedroom. It's absolutely amazing. Like I said, I've never seen anything like it at a dive resort. You will not be disappointed. The resort has a pool and usual resort amenities including a spa. (Masseur is outstanding). To be honest, I'm not sure why kitchens are even provided - there is no place to buy any groceries on the island and all meals are provided at the resort.

Food: Similar format to LC, CB and CC. Buffet style served at 6:30 AM and PM and 12:30 PM daily. Food is good albeit a little repetitive. All supplies come from Provo by ferry so variety is somewhat limited although I think this will improve as time goes by. No one went hungry. The chef is quite obliging and will make custom dishes for anyone who asks.

Staff: Very friendly and well trained. Remarkable for a new operation. Always greet you with a smile. Made for a very positive experience. Tiaan (the F&B manager) is an excellent supervisor - things run very smoothly.

Diving: At last. Those of you with previous Reef Diver's experience will recognize the same boats from Cayman. They brought four boats over from their resorts there. These are large dive boats and one accommodated all of us (20 divers) comfortably.

You meet in the lobby at 8am and shuttle vans take you to the boat pier about 2 minutes away. All your gear appears magically on the boat (the Reef Divers' usual MO) and you're off to dive. Dive sites are about 12 minutes from the pier. Water temps were 86F. Vis varied from 60' to150'. I wore a rash-guard and swimming trunks all week. You return to the hotel after two dives at about 12:30pm and meet again at 2pm for your third dive. Your gear is removed from the boat, cleaned and it's back on the boat for the next morning dive.

Dive sites varied in depth from just over 100' to some that did not exceed 40'. We saw the most enormous sting rays that I've ever seen, black tipped sharks, many turtles and the usual suspects in the Caribbean. Unfortunately there is much SCTLD in South Caicos - brain corals are mostly gone. Underwater topography is very interesting with a lot of arches, swim throughs making dives quite interesting. Unlike most Caribbean islands, the T&C are not of volcanic origin. Everything is Calcium Carbonate (limestone) based underwater. It looks and feels different to what I'm used to in the Caribbean. Edges of reefs are rounder and whiter. Is it better than Coz? Nope but a nice change of scenery. Minimal currents on any of our dives, it's really easy and highly recommended for newer and experienced divers.

Unfortunately for us we lost two days of diving due to high winds and missed out on the Turks and East Caicos all day excursions. Thus the afternoon van ride around the island and morning boat ride to visit some of the nearby islands. Two interesting and worthwhile trips.

Dive sites visited included: Airplane (meh), The Arch (fantastic), Hawksbill Hotel, The Maze, Eagle Ray Alley (for good reason), The Grotto, Spanish Chain, Fish Bowl, East Bay Spur, Grotto Deep.

Overall a worthwhile trip. Excellent diving and outstanding operation in the usual Reef Diver's style. I will attach a few pics in a forthcoming post.
 
Excellent report - TY! T&C is next up on our list and we’ve been considering staying either here or at Bohio.

I’ve read similar horror stories about the COVID process elsewhere lately; one story on TA in particular sticks out in my mind where a passenger was approved 15 minutes too late to board their flight... So glad it worked out for you!
 
Thanks for the excellent overview and practical info. I’d want to know the authorizing authorities got their act together before I considered trying to follow in your footsteps. Wonder how common diving getting blown out is, and how seasonal an issue that is? And whether being a small island is a factor? Where there night dives?

Think this is a place you’d like to return to off and on over the years, or kind of a ‘once and done’ thing?
 
Thanks for the excellent overview and practical info. I’d want to know the authorizing authorities got their act together before I considered trying to follow in your footsteps. Wonder how common diving getting blown out is, and how seasonal an issue that is? And whether being a small island is a factor? Where there night dives?

Think this is a place you’d like to return to off and on over the years, or kind of a ‘once and done’ thing?
Unfortunately diving is done on the windward side of the island. The leeward side is just too shallow. You can pretty much walk for miles and miles in the ocean on that side. Quite incredible actually.

This means that diving is subject to the vagaries of the wind which can be dicey especially during hurricane season. I really wish that we had been able to get the East Caicos dive sites. Word from Mateo (DM and passionate ecologist) is that East Caicos sites are awesome. He named the finest after his son.
 
Great report on Turks & Caicos East Bay Resort. I have had some questions about the dive sites and if they have been damaged from recent past hurricanes. Glad to hear you had some good dives and excellent accommodations. Thanks..!

On getting there and the "psychological ordeal," that is pretty much the way of the world these days. Going to the Red Sea, Maldives, and Galapagos all have their challenges but most folks are finding it no big deal with adequate planning. Many insurance companies have modified their coverage to provide the necessary medical should a person require COVID hospitalization while in country. The TCI website lists a number of approved companies. I offer Travelex as their plans originally covered Costa Rica, one of the first places to open and require COVID coverage. On testing, I have some clients who use eMed online test kits ($150 for a 6-pack) that are accepted for antigen testing to return to the US, results returned to a cell phone app.

We are seeing Palau opening now and Fiji will be accepting international visitors as of December 1, 2021 both with similar entry requirements. For Palau, you must be vaccinated, a negative test before arrival is required, a negative test on Day 1(upon arrival), and a negative test on Day 5. We must understand that many small island nations don't have the hospital capacity to care for a number of sick visitors in addition to their own citizens.

Dive safe!
 
Great report on Turks & Caicos East Bay Resort. I have had some questions about the dive sites and if they have been damaged from recent past hurricanes. Glad to hear you had some good dives and excellent accommodations. Thanks..!

On getting there and the "psychological ordeal," that is pretty much the way of the world these days. Going to the Red Sea, Maldives, and Galapagos all have their challenges but most folks are finding it no big deal with adequate planning. Many insurance companies have modified their coverage to provide the necessary medical should a person require COVID hospitalization while in country. The TCI website lists a number of approved companies. I offer Travelex as their plans originally covered Costa Rica, one of the first places to open and require COVID coverage. On testing, I have some clients who use eMed online test kits ($150 for a 6-pack) that are accepted for antigen testing to return to the US, results returned to a cell phone app.

We are seeing Palau opening now and Fiji will be accepting international visitors as of December 1, 2021 both with similar entry requirements. For Palau, you must be vaccinated, a negative test before arrival is required, a negative test on Day 1(upon arrival), and a negative test on Day 5. We must understand that many small island nations don't have the hospital capacity to care for a number of sick visitors in addition to their own citizens.

Dive safe!

1, Very little noticeable damage from hurricanes UW.

2. This thread is only about the TCI. Don't care about the Red Sea or anywhere else. This is only about the TCI. I have no problem with their travel requirements. Their country - their rules. It's the TIME taken for approval that is the issue. The process is too slow. Ensure that people get approved in a reasonable timeframe - that's all. Staff appropriately. System sucks at present.

3. TCI publish a list of insurers without clear guidance as to exactly what insurance policy you will need. Calling the TCI hotline was even more confusing with different agents giving different requirements. We ended up using Aura International.

3. For the trip back to the USA, EBR provided free Antigen testing at the resort. No issues there whatsoever.
 
How much was the Covid medical insurance per person?
 
@tridacna Since you were diving the windward side, we’re they able to find calm water for the SIs on the two tank morning dives?
 
@tridacna Since you were diving the windward side, we’re they able to find calm water for the SIs on the two tank morning dives?
The areas in which they dive are protected by Long Cay. It's like diving in a bay. There is absolutely no issue between dives.
 
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