RIX SA-2: Is there such a thing?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

-JD-

Eclecticist
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
2,357
Reaction score
2,394
Location
Greater Philadelphia, PA
# of dives
100 - 199
Thus just popped up for sale locally, advertised as a freshly rebuilt RIX SA2.

I'm aware of the SA-3 and SA-6 versions but haven't heard of (and can't find anything on ) an SA2 or SA-2 version. Is it an older variant? Also I am familiar with the tubing being SS on most of the units, is the copper on this a replacement?

And the limited imagery doesn't help, unfortunately ...

00o0o_aQGrOB9CVrOz_1320MM_1200x900.jpg
 
no SA2 to my knowledge but @iain/hsm may know, could be a SA3 that had a slower motor on it. Copper coils are going to be from older models and haven't been upgraded though looks like SS on the third stage.
 
I might need to contact them in the morning and take a ride over.
Looks like there actually may be 2 there from the picture.

Unfortunately, despite following @rob.mwpropane 's thread and a bunch of others, there is a whole lot more that I don't know than I know about these units. Afraid I might be digging myself a (potentially expensive/frustrating) hole ...


Thanks, guys!
 
I might need to contact them in the morning and take a ride over.
Looks like there actually may be 2 there from the picture.

Unfortunately, despite following @rob.mwpropane 's thread and a bunch of others, there is a whole lot more that I don't know than I know about these units. Afraid I might be digging myself a (potentially expensive/frustrating) hole ...


Thanks, guys!

That looks like an older model to me. If you can find it, look for stainless steel coils and duel belts. I can't remember what serial number was the cutoff but there's a document somewhere that says which ones got what, the later the better.

I would still go take a look at one up close though, even if you don't plan to buy it. In the grand scheme of things they are pretty well thought out and simple to access just about anything on the unit.
 
And the limited imagery doesn't help, unfortunately ...

IMHO That's the idea, typical of a lot of these type of sales, the seller knows exactly what junk he is selling but acts as if its a good deal, With careful cropping and positioning of the photo gives his game away as the photo position is hiding all of the features needed to make a valid assesment.

But the data ID plate is looking right at you with the model number and serial number stamped on it, plain as day.
However my question is how come he managed to do a complete service with the fan missing and in addition the fan guard and belt guard. The box section frame is not a Rix product and the piston rods are around 30 to 40 years old. That Telydyne bleeder on the 2nd stage hasnt been made or put on the SA-3 and SA-6 for 30 years and the piston rods are no longer available.

Inside you will find the the reed valves on stage 2 and 3 are no longer available and will need to be replaced with compete head assemblies. Estimate $3200 in parts by the time you get it running. Frankly even if it were a $300 punt for 30 year old junk spares you won't need and cant use. I cant see it being viable.

Just revised the estimated date on this build to 1979 some 42 years ago, if you get the serial number I can nail it down.
 
IMHO That's the idea, typical of a lot of these type of sales, the seller knows exactly what junk he is selling but acts as if its a good deal, With careful cropping and positioning of the photo gives his game away as the photo position is hiding all of the features needed to make a valid assesment.

But the data ID plate is looking right at you with the model number and serial number stamped on it, plain as day.
However my question is how come he managed to do a complete service with the fan missing and in addition the fan guard and belt guard. The box section frame is not a Rix product and the piston rods are around 30 to 40 years old. That Telydyne bleeder on the 2nd stage hasnt been made or put on the SA-3 and SA-6 for 30 years and the piston rods are no longer available.

Inside you will find the the reed valves on stage 2 and 3 are no longer available and will need to be replaced with compete head assemblies. Estimate $3200 in parts by the time you get it running. Frankly even if it were a $300 punt for 30 year old junk spares you won't need and cant use. I cant see it being viable.

Just revised the estimated date on this build to 1979 some 42 years ago, if you get the serial number I can nail it down.

I noticed that the frame was unlike anything I'd seen and that "stuff" seemed missing/hidden.

However, damn sir, you've got way better eyes than me. I couldn't read a thing off of the data plate. Saw it, but didn't even figure it was going to yield anything useful even if 'shopped.

I've been dithering on calling and arranging to see it because it just seems hinkey. I don't need a(nother) money pit and imagine $5K+ would better serve towards something new from you.

In any case, I owe you a BEvERidge for steering me away from the shoals of folly. The first of many, I suppose ... thank you!
 
Good eyes guys, I still cannot see the data plate info.

But my real question (it should be a separate thread) is about the cooling coils. If copper is robust enough to handle the pressures involved in this application, why wouldn't copper be a better choice than stainless steel? I was given to understand the heat conductivity of copper is better than stainless.

TIA
 
Copper work hardens and gets brittle leading to cracks. It is far better at transferring heat until this happens.
 
Copper work hardens and gets brittle leading to cracks. It is far better at transferring heat until this happens.

That makes sense. How long (I suppose in number of run hours) are we talking about?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom