Do you think this can pass visual?

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As other's have said, in the big picture tanks are cheap. Over the life of a tank you will spend far more on VIPs, Hydros and fills than the cost of the tank. Given that it is a bomb I'm storing in my home, placing in my car, and strapping on my back, I choose not to dink around with questionable tanks. Perhaps that's just me.
 
Given that it is a bomb I'm storing in my home, placing in my car, and strapping on my back, I choose not to dink around with questionable tanks. Perhaps that's just me.

I agree, however if the OP wants to use it, I'm in the get it hydroed after cleaning it up. If it passes hydro, it is the same quality bomb as the rest of one's tank farm. It depends on how much time, effort and money one is willing to possibly waste, I've wasted more money on stupider s**t so...
 
@Seville, If that tank was brought to me in the conditions shown in your pictures i wouldn't fill it, even with a current hydro and vis sticker and I would fail it on a visual inspection.

That said, it cleaned up much better than expected. Still, you really need to have the interior inspected before you do anything. It may be fine or it may not be. Take it to a shop that caters to technical divers, this is important, not to a shop that specializes in warm water OW diving. Talk to whomever is going to inspect it and ask them to be thorough due to it having had some corrosion when you recieved it and you want to be sure it's safe to use. Then if it passes, have it hydroed to be totally sure. This shouldn't cost you much to do.

If all is good, only then consider putting any more money into it and using it.
 
I may have a new valve I can’t use that I think is that thread pitch. Would be willing to make a sweetheart deal on it. Like super-sweet, to cover my shipping and handling. It’s DIN BTW.

That's a pressed steel cylinder. Neck threads are 7/8-14 UNF. They are mostly only available on 3500 PSI cylinders. Yoke regulators aren't rated for that pressure, in most cases.

Free stuff is free because it isn't worth the time or effort to deal with it. You've sanded the cylinder which goes against every cylinder rule, so now your Fill Station Operator will hassle you when you go to get it filled. You don't have a regulator that will connect to it, so now you have to upgrade your regulator at close to the same price that you would pay for a good used cylinder.

But you showed us. You came here asking for advice and everyone said to not use the cylinder, but you showed us.

Of course, you can spray paint it with a good zinc paint that you can get at Ace Hardware, but it will rust anyway. It will never be as good as a good used tank that will meet your needs with the gear you currently have.
 
I have some steel CO2 tanks from the early 80s that are rusty as hell on the outside. Makes no difference. They always pass hydro and VIP.

Last thing I'd ever do is sand the outside of a tank.

I'd also get a 7/8-14 tap and try chasing the threads before chucking the valve.
 
Just trying to understand....what is the problem with sanding the outside of the tank? How is bead blasting any better for the removal of oxidation/rust with regard to the structural integrity of the tank?

-Z
 
Dont want to sand a tank... but run a tap though the neck of the tank is ok....
thats kinda funny..... but I have no issues with both.
I work with lots of high pressure things from air to hydraulics. There is very few things that are under built most things have a 4:1 saftey factor..
somethings are seem kinda light but it designed by someone for that...
Plus everyone gets all worry about stuff. But cave fills are ok??? Why is a burst disc rated so high? What happens when you have an aluminum tank filled in the winter at 3100psi And its black sitting on a boat in the summer sun? I don't recommend over pressure aluminum... but they do handle way more pressure than most people realize Just in normal use.

Ps.
a 1lb camping propane tank blows up at 930ish psi. I know I tried it. My own backyard hydro test...
 
I may have a new valve I can’t use that I think is that thread pitch. Would be willing to make a sweetheart deal on it. Like super-sweet, to cover my shipping and handling. It’s DIN BTW.
PM sent!
 
Dont want to sand a tank... but run a tap though the neck of the tank is ok....
thats kinda funny..... .

Funny how? And what does one have to do with another?

If tapping the threads doesn't fix the valve, throw the valve away.

Sanding a steel tank will just make it rust faster. And it will rust more than it did before you sanded on it. Unless you can re apply a coating similar to factory. But you can't.
 

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