Question on Changing BP/W Webbing in the Future

[FishWatcher747]

You guys with the 32lb wings and diving in cold water, will your BPW float on its own with all your integrated lead attached?

Not sure if that’s important or not.

Good question. What size single tank wing would you recommend for cold water? I'm pretty much a warm water destination diver. I do the local lakes and quarries in the summer but that is it.

For my full 7 mm wetsuit, hood and boots I have a 6 lb SS plate and 20# of lead so 26#. 32# wing should be 6 # buoyant.

 

[Centrals]

You guys with the 32lb wings and diving in cold water, will your BPW float on its own with all your integrated lead attached?

Not sure if that’s important or not.

32lb is just under 15kg. NO problem for me.

 

[jerrydascorpion]

I own a HOG TBCS, and love it. I would strongly suggest you wait a bit before changing out the webbing and comfort harness. I know a lot of divers on SB like the continuous webbing system, but I find the TBCS comfort harness so much easier to don/doff and make quick adjustments to the tightness of the shoulder harness. Since I do not dive cold water any more, I only have to contend with making harness adjustments to a 5mm and 3mm wetsuits, and find it so much easier with a comfort harness than a single piece of webbing. At some points of a dive, I may want to loosen or tighten the harness, which is a snap with the quick release latches. There is a good reason it is called a comfort harness!

I wasn't planning on replacing the harness right away. The harness it comes with makes it seem like a great way to get into BP/W after diving jacket/rear inflate BCDs. I was just inquiring about future changes.

I was also planning on adding some trim pockets on the cam bands.

Thank you everyone for your thoughts and opinions.

 

[jerrydascorpion]

You guys with the 32lb wings and diving in cold water, will your BPW float on its own with all your integrated lead attached?

Not sure if that’s important or not.

This is why I am considering HOG (32 lb) over the DGX (30 lb). Using the "Optimal Buoyancy Calculator" found on SB, it looks like I will need around 26lbs of lift from my wing. I appreciate the extra 2 lbs as some wiggle room. I am also considering a weight belt instead of weight integration but I feel that may get iffy when having to remove the kit in the water.

I am not planning (any time too soon) of small boat dives in cold water. It will most likely be shore dives or at quarries. Maybe eventually some small boat cold water dives, but for now I want to focus on the basics and getting my own gear.

 

[Curious_George]

Good question. What size single tank wing would you recommend for cold water? I'm pretty much a warm water destination diver. I do the local lakes and quarries in the summer but that is it.

A lot depends on how much exposure protection you wear and what type. Two pounds extra isn’t much if one needs to support another diver in the water.

In cold water with no current, I would say the bigger the better within reason. If you are in a drysuit and want to count that, ok. Big caveat here, if you wear a weight belt and plan to drop in an emergency, then that changes the discussion - but the guys on this thread appear to be talking about all weight on the BC.

Everyone I dive with uses at least 40lbs wing for single tank diving plus drysuit for backup buoyancy unless quite a small person. The ones that didn’t changed after doing the kit floating on its own test. Not telling anyone what to do, just sharing another perspective. Oxycheq and halcyon make nice streamlined 40lb wings. I’m sure others do as well.

 

[inquis]

I am also considering a weight belt instead of weight integration but I feel that may get iffy when having to remove the kit in the water.

The lion's share of the lead will be to offset suit buoyancy, so I doubt you will be negative without the rig. Especially so if you have a steel plate or tank. Even so, I believe standard practice for a RIB pickup is to hand them your weight belt before completely doffing the rig.

EDIT: Play with the Lift tab on that Buoyancy Calculator. Shifting weight to a belt may reduce the lift required by the wing. As others have said, much depends on suit buoyancy. It's worth measuring that and overriding the initial estimate.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

One thing that no diver using more than say 10lbs of lead should do is put it all in one system. I use a mix of a mako rubber free diving belt, steel plate, and weight pockets on the cam bands as well as steel cylinders. Set up so that the loss of any one part is not going to result in an uncontrolled ascent.
Calculators should only be used as a starting point. There is no substitute for doing proper checks in the water at various tank pressures and with different exposure protection.

 

[Micheal]

I am considering getting a HOG Total Buoyancy Control System BP/W. I will be diving mostly cold water in a 7mm wetsuit, with occasional travel to warm water.

After looking at different BP/W setups, it seems like the most bang for the buck (32 lb wing, larger weight pockets, 2 cam bands, AL BP, etc) is the Total Buoyancy Control system. Eventually I would like to get rid of the deluxe harness and change it to regular webbing.

Being the setup I am looking at comes with D rings, triglides, buckle, etc. could I just order 12-15 ft of webbing and replace the deluxe harness with a basic webbing setup? When I look at other complete harness setups, they have a grommet in the middle of the length of webbing and some have pre-sewn parts on the crotch straps.

Is it worth the extra money to get the complete harness setup, or save some money and buy a length of webbing? I am sure I am over thinking things being I don't even have the setup yet, but it has been in the back of my mind for a while.

Thanks

Hello Jerry,

I think will you really like the Hog setup, the 32lbs is a great bladder. As Jim said, you will have plenty of extra hardware depending on how you set things up. I do have one suggestion. The Tech Slider (Hog calls the Dog Bone) is used on the chest strap on a deluxe system and it works great. You do not want to use this on your chest in a single strap config, as it will dig into place you will not like. However, it works really well as your Hip slider. I attach my SPG to it and it just makes the D-ring easier with bottles hanging.

Couple extra notes, If you are ever going to use the BP for Doubles, I suggest getting the Single Tank adapter. It just makes swapping from you doubles bladder to single so much easier. Is it need, nope, but I use to change back and forth a lot. Then I got smart and just bought a second BP.

Not sure if you gotten Regulators yet, but the Hog D3 and Zenith are great to. I have zero issues with them so far, diving from St Lawrence River, NY to the Florida keys.

Good Luck and Enjoy.

 

[jerrydascorpion]

A lot of great advice here.

I have looked at a Mako weight belt. I was thinking about doing a belt instead of weight integration, but being the total buoyancy system has the pockets I figured I would keep them. I may get a belt too being they are relatively inexpensive and I can break up my weighting between more systems.

I don't have regulators yet. I have considered HOG and Deep 6. I have several pieces of equipment from Deep 6 and really like their gear and customer service. One thing I keep debating is the local shops being able to service them, or if I am on a trip and have an issue. I guess if I was on a trip, regs probably won't get serviced right away and I will be renting for the remainder of the trip. For local diving or regular maintenance, I can just plan to have them serviced in the "off season".

 

[Micheal]

A lot of great advice here.

I have looked at a Mako weight belt. I was thinking about doing a belt instead of weight integration, but being the total buoyancy system has the pockets I figured I would keep them. I may get a belt too being they are relatively inexpensive and I can break up my weighting between more systems.

I don't have regulators yet. I have considered HOG and Deep 6. I have several pieces of equipment from Deep 6 and really like their gear and customer service. One thing I keep debating is the local shops being able to service them, or if I am on a trip and have an issue. I guess if I was on a trip, regs probably won't get serviced right away and I will be renting for the remainder of the trip. For local diving or regular maintenance, I can just plan to have them serviced in the "off season".

Understand your concerns on the rebuild process. I have a few Deep 6 items too, and looking at their DC for students. Basically both Deep 6 and Hog, and countless others Regs are the same. You will here some debate this, but they are all based on a Apex design. Looking at the service manuals I do not see a difference. The hold up on many shops rebuilding them is, parts, manuals and liability. I have always carried a rebuild kit over seas, even for my old Atmoic's. These days, I email shops in the area prior to travel so I am prepared.

I missed the comment on the DC. The Mares Puck is a decent OW DC, that will get the job done. I have not touched one in years, but the one I used had to constantly be reset for ppo2 or nitrox as it would reset after each dive or day, I forget. The Deep Six DC is very nice at a great price. I got to play with on in Ft Lauderdale a few weeks back. As others have stated though, I too am in love with AI. I would love to see AI be more affordable for Rec divers. New divers will look at their AIR more and in a safer way when it is on their wrist. I teach classes on Non-AI, but on check out dives, if I only have 1 or 2 divers I put AI on them. They all prefer it. I would say use the Mares for now, until you decide your diving direction. Aqualung 470tc is a great AI and a low price, after that I just go to Shearwater, Perdix or Teric depending on style. Awesome part is the same transmitter works all these models so you can buy it now or later.