TG5 and YS-01 : TTL issue

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P.K.A.

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Messages
14
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Location
Philippines
# of dives
50 - 99
I m having a problem using TTL mode. I set the camera on ''Fill In'' and the strobe to TTL ; it fires but the image came out pitch black.

However when I set it to manual mode : camera '' Manual 1/64'' and the strobe to ''1 lightning bolt'' , everything works but the strobe doesn't fire especially when I dial to 1 or 2 power level - only works on power level 3 and above. Even on manual mode power level 3, the image sometimes over/underexposed as the flash is not consistent( sometimes it fires too bright and sometimes too dim; not sure why is that so).

Anything wrong with my settings? Please help....
 
what fibre optic cable are you using? this is often the root cause of TTL and triggering problems. Try testing it with the strobe without the cable holding the strobe light sensor up to the camera flash. If it works that way the cable is the problem. You might need to rig up a mirror to reflect light into the sensor socket.

On manual flash can you see the flash exposure changing as you change power levels?
 
what fibre optic cable are you using? this is often the root cause of TTL and triggering problems. Try testing it with the strobe without the cable holding the strobe light sensor up to the camera flash. If it works that way the cable is the problem. You might need to rig up a mirror to reflect light into the sensor socket.

On manual flash can you see the flash exposure changing as you change power levels?

Thanks Chris for the advice...will try your suggestion...since I m new to UW photography , I m not sure what to reply to your question as I m still trying to catch the idea of 'exposure , shutter speed and etc'.
 
By changing exposure I mean as you change the manual power setting on the flash to brighter does the image you capture also get brighter. If it doesn't there's something wrong with the flash. You need to sort out the cable issue first though to be sure you are reliably triggering the flash.
 
I was about to come post a similar thread. I have the same setup, and I took it to Cozumel last Feb but the strobe flooded on the first dive. :banghead: Mozaik was nice enough to send me another cap at no charge, and I was able to get the strobe working again. (Side note, now I make sure to buy everything with my Amex card. Purchase protection would have replaced the strobe).

I am getting ready to go to Coz again (My wife and I have been vaccinated, so fortunate in that respect). I took the camera out yesterday to do some test shots with the strobe. I have the Sea & Sea fiber optic cable. I set it up as recommended in the Backscatter videos. When I take a photo in Program mode, 6 inches or more from the subject, it works fine, strobe fires, and I get a viewable photo. When I switch to microscope mode, zoom way in and have camera approx. 1 inch from subject, strobe fires, but the image is very underexposed. I am using TTL and fill-in, as recommended. No idea why it is underexposing on microscope mode. Any ideas?
 
I am getting ready to go to Coz again (My wife and I have been vaccinated, so fortunate in that respect). I took the camera out yesterday to do some test shots with the strobe. I have the Sea & Sea fiber optic cable. I set it up as recommended in the Backscatter videos. When I take a photo in Program mode, 6 inches or more from the subject, it works fine, strobe fires, and I get a viewable photo. When I switch to microscope mode, zoom way in and have camera approx. 1 inch from subject, strobe fires, but the image is very underexposed. I am using TTL and fill-in, as recommended. No idea why it is underexposing on microscope mode. Any ideas?

Did you change strobe positions when you went to microscope mode? That would be my first guess - a strobe correctly setup to light a subject 6"away from the lens won't be sending any light to a subject 1"from the lens. Strobe positioning is trying to avoid lighting the area between lens and subject. When subjects get lose to the lens port lighting becomes progressively more difficult.

The other potential issue is what the camera does in P mode - Backscatter tend to ignore this - the camera has two apertures and an ND filter so when zoomed in it will f4.9/ f6.3 or f14/18 at other zoom levels you'll get different numbers. If P mode selects f18 the flash may be struggling to supply enough light. Stopping down beyond f6.3 means the ND filter is in place and you are throwing away light. my preference is to use A mode. For example referring to this chart:

https://www.backscatter.com/images/.../Olympus_TG-6_Settings_Guide_Macro_Strobe.pdf

the aperture recommendation is not right - there is no benefit of going f9-18 - it doesn't get you more depth of field. The only reason to bring the ND filter into play is help keep the background underexposed in shallow water.[/QUOTE]
 
Thanks Chris. I wish I had a better grasp of all of this photo stuff. I have never been a 'photographer', just a point and clicker so it is a steep learning curve.
 
By changing exposure I mean as you change the manual power setting on the flash to brighter does the image you capture also get brighter. If it doesn't there's something wrong with the flash. You need to sort out the cable issue first though to be sure you are reliably triggering the flash.

Hi Chris ..yes it does...as i increase the power setting..the image get brighter
 
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