Glue choices

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Good thread, I'm also very interested in suggestions and comparisons of drysuit adhesives. About to buy some and do a few big repairs. I've used aquaseal extensively in the past but it is runny and hard to remove. Anyone who does this a lot - what do you like?

Also, what are ScubaBoard's seam tape preferences? Heat vs. glue-on? Rubber or the more cloth-like stuff?

Regarding the "liquid urethane" comment, Aquaseal is a urethane. There are tons of other urethane adhesives. That mcmaster stuff is interesting, casting compounds likely would work fine for this application. Not sure if they would have less bond strength than a purpose made adhesive - maybe maybe not. Though high bond strength is not really necessary in this application. If you're looking at casting type urethanes, check out Smooth-On's lineup.
 
Why not use PB-300?

For me there are two aspects to attaching something on a dry suit: 1) the mechanical bond that keeps the zipper or seal stuck to the suit, and 2) the waterproofing. Some people have the capability or skill to thermally bond or otherwise attach a zipper or seal to the suit where both 1 and 2 happen at the same time, but not me. The only DIY method I use completes those with separate steps. Typically a contact adhesive or sewing to affix the seal, and a second (perhaps redundant) layer to waterproof. Possible I suppose that contact cement is enough, but I always add a layer of aquaseal. And for socks, I typically use a third decorative layer like melco tape on the outside.

what are ScubaBoard's seam tape preferences?

Doubtful I represent Scubaboard, but the only tape that works for me on latex is something with contact cement. I like melco tape if needed for fabric or neoprene. The key point here is DIY. I can’t justify the expense of a welding machine to attach seals.

Yes, aquaseal is runny - but more than that, it takes forever to dry. That’s why I mix it with acetone. Just a little more runny, but it paints easily and drys in about an hour so I can get multiple coats on fairly quickly.
 
Why not use PB-300? Or am I missing something?

I'm not a huge fan of aquaseal unless in a pinch. It's a real pain to undo, doesn't come apart well even with heat (if mistakes are made just heat PB-300 a little to remove). When I use PB-300 just give it a few good layers and roll together. It's easy to clean up, and you can pretty much get it at any hardware store.

DAP Weldwood 32 fl. oz. Original Contact Cement-00272 - The Home Depot

PB-300 that I've used is clear and not too thick. The DAP Weldwood I've used is opaque and a creamy tan, nothing like PB-300. It's been awhile since I've used either. Have there been changes?
 
PB-300 that I've used is clear and not too thick. The DAP Weldwood I've used is opaque and a creamy tan, nothing like PB-300. It's been awhile since I've used either. Have there been changes?

To be honest, I haven't used PB-300. I'm content using DRiS drysuit glue, but was told it's just DAP...who knows. I'm sure I'll get some next time... I have used it for other stuff, just not on drysuits.

I do not find it runny, and to me it looks just like DAP. It's not clear, it's opaque. I just prep a lot and lay down a few layers...
Works well for me... I'm pretty happy with all my projects and I'm 100% confident that I could tackle a neck and maybe even a zipper.

Edit: to clarify, I was told and was under the assumption that DAP = DRiS drysuit glue = PB-300. I have never used PB-300 (the others are just easier for me to get), but I've used the others and they look identical. I'm sorry if I didn't spell that out right.
 
I'd say then that PB-300 and DAP are in the same category, contact cement, but certainly not the same product. PB-300 is certainly more expensive.
No idea about comparison for dry suit repair and seal mounting.
 
My preferences are:
No Tape - 3 coats of whichever your chosen glue is on each item - stick them together. Occasionally put the trim tape on some areas to make it looks pretty and a little bit of strength, but it peels off over time. Very evident in trilams and other suits that are taped on the inside - these are much more prone to leaks along the seams.

SC2000 or similar for the glue.

Trim tape or some mix of finishing glue as mentioned by @Addison Snyder to put over where you have glued.

Remember if it is a neoprene item to trim away the nylon on around where you are gluing to prevent capillary action leaks.

Aquaseal does get brittle over time. When used as glue it can be removed by either heating or using a tolene based thinner.
 
@grf88 and @divezonescuba what would you say are the primary differences with the shoe goo type products. Can I paint them on with a brush? I thought I heard there were some significant downsides to this product vs. aquaseal.

Appreciate everyone’s time to reply and all the suggestions. I’ve not seen any responses where someone has used and can recommend a sealer so I can paint one or two thick coats over the seams that will dry quickly and remain flexible. It needs to be a thick flexible coating. Take a look at this example on a DUI.
FD00BB68-4186-4956-BA48-E992FADB3E9D.jpeg
 
@grf88 and @divezonescuba what would you say are the primary differences with the shoe goo type products. Can I paint them on with a brush? I thought I heard there were some significant downsides to this product vs. aquaseal.

Appreciate everyone’s time to reply and all the suggestions. I’ve not seen any responses where someone has used and can recommend a sealer so I can paint one or two thick coats over the seams that will dry quickly and remain flexible. It needs to be a thick flexible coating. Take a look at this example on a DUI.
View attachment 631915
Shoe goo is way too thick to apply with a brush. I generally use a disposable plastic knife. It does run a bit, but not much.

For the price I suggest you buy a tube and play with it on something disposable.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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