If the weight is needed for a training drill, the DM/Instructor often carry a few extra pounds they can give you for the drill only. Only thing I can think of that would require ditchable weight in a training environment only.
Ankle floats?
- Thread starter JustWetRocks
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OP
JustWetRocks
Contributor
Current kit top to bottom:
1mm neoprene vented beanie hood
Ocean shadow mask with neoprene strap
Sports bra, bike shorts, 3mil O’Neal wetsuit
5mil cressi tall boots with hard bottom
Small aqualung rogue with bladder cover
Power fins with spring straps added
63al tank (my typical although I have used super80s)
Aqualung micra, titan 1st stage, Apeks xtx40 octopus, aqualung i300c console with compass
I carry a set of shears, a flashlight, a reel and a sausage.
This thread started out as looking for a way to relocate the 3 lbs that I have been told to dive with in the above setup or a way to get some float on the ankles.
I am leg heavy.
It became a huge debate on the carrying of the 3lbs.
tips on changing fins have been suggested so I float tested what was available yesterday at the lds. This may help. Hate it since I do like my fins a lot but if that little change could keep me from going vertical then I would do it.
Going vertical is only an issue at a hover. While moving I am at about 20degrees.
With no fins but the 5mil boots on, my feet still sink.
I will say that I am super comfortable in the water.
My body attitude and posture aren’t really the issue. I am a short, muscular, compact woman. Built more like a 12 year old boy. I don’t have hips, I don’t have bum, I don’t have much up top.
I have to fight my feet. It’s not a huge drop unless hovering.... and then sure I can go head down completely and get my legs up over me if need be...
I care enough to be trying to get my trim in line....
And then it just turned in to a conversation about the 3lbs I’ve been told to carry. And it really seems like I am in a catch 22.
In the rogue my weight pockets sit on my bum. The back piece on the small is short, the trim pockets are not much higher up. With the weights in, I am of course more back end heavy. I can hold them to my upper chest and hover perfectly. (This works with 1.5lbs as well)
The debate became due to me not actually requiring those 3lbs......
I'm not sure there is a real solution to your question. shifting the tank and adding even more weight seems counter intuitive. I am curious to know if they gave you a reason for having to carry extra weight? I DM with a steel tank and no other weight.
@ScubaCarrie
Thanks for the info on still being leg heavy without fins. This is an important datapoint. Negative fins are still going to exacerbate the problem, neutral fins are not going to fix it. Hence I still lean towards neutral fins (take your pick).
People have already discussed the balanced rig concept. Have you tried descending with the minimum weight that you need to hold a safety stop (properly weighted) and then with a full tank, are able to swim to the surface without any gas in your BCD?
I'm more in favor of a balanced rig and not having ditchable weight.
Excuse me for missing this, but how much weight do you actually need? I skimmed the thread and didn't see that. But my coffee hasn't kicked in.
For placement, I suggest holding that weight (I'm assuming it isn't much), holding in your hands, and seeing where to place it based on being horizontal. If you only have a little weight (say 4 lbs), I'd experiment with attaching to your BCD shoulder straps. Here is a method for doing so: Simple Method for Adding Weight to a Sidemount Diving Harness. In a worse case scenario where you were OOG, at the surface and wanted to be as buoyant as possible (the number one reason why you'd want to ditch weight), you could cut the bungee with your shears. Just an idea.
Thanks for the info on still being leg heavy without fins. This is an important datapoint. Negative fins are still going to exacerbate the problem, neutral fins are not going to fix it. Hence I still lean towards neutral fins (take your pick).
People have already discussed the balanced rig concept. Have you tried descending with the minimum weight that you need to hold a safety stop (properly weighted) and then with a full tank, are able to swim to the surface without any gas in your BCD?
I'm more in favor of a balanced rig and not having ditchable weight.
Excuse me for missing this, but how much weight do you actually need? I skimmed the thread and didn't see that. But my coffee hasn't kicked in.
For placement, I suggest holding that weight (I'm assuming it isn't much), holding in your hands, and seeing where to place it based on being horizontal. If you only have a little weight (say 4 lbs), I'd experiment with attaching to your BCD shoulder straps. Here is a method for doing so: Simple Method for Adding Weight to a Sidemount Diving Harness. In a worse case scenario where you were OOG, at the surface and wanted to be as buoyant as possible (the number one reason why you'd want to ditch weight), you could cut the bungee with your shears. Just an idea.
IMHO trim should be checked when hovering. When you fin, the movement will automatically make you more horizontal hiding the underlying issue: i.e. it’s just that the water movement compensate for it.
Out of curiosity, have you tried a smaller cylinder ? There are ‘dumpy‘ cylinders that have the same capacity but are shorter in height ? Most of the people in my club who are short use these cylinders rather than the classic steel 12l.
Whats your height ?
Out of curiosity, have you tried a smaller cylinder ? There are ‘dumpy‘ cylinders that have the same capacity but are shorter in height ? Most of the people in my club who are short use these cylinders rather than the classic steel 12l.
Whats your height ?
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Well, at least you understand what I'm trying to say. We agree on properly weighted. I want some of that weight (that gets me properly weighted) to be ditchable. Nothing more than that. Both your rig and my rig are properly weighted.
Yes, her gear needs to be adjusted and I agree that without any air in the BC she needs a bit more buoyancy that won't disappear at depth due to pressure.
Now for the three pounds. in one of my swim classes, we were given a 5-pound rubber-coated brick to retrieve from the bottom and then keep at the surface for 5 minutes. Three pounds, to me, is not splitting hairs. But then, I am a solo diver and extremely risk-averse.
runsongas
Contributor
OP is already using an al63 which is a short cylinder.
@ScubaCarrie when you hover are you extending your legs? or are you bending your knees and getting into a skydiver position?
@ScubaCarrie when you hover are you extending your legs? or are you bending your knees and getting into a skydiver position?
She apparently sinks in a 3mm wetsuit in the pool with no lead at all which I find a little hard to believe
She apparently sinks in a 3mm wetsuit in the pool with no lead at all which I find a little hard to believe
The Chairman
Chairman of the Board
Unless that makes you even MORE negative. That's like having a negative bank account and trying to spend even more.
Did you miss this? She doesn't need any weight at all, I am sure.
Ah...The real issue.
Try the floaty fins (Deep 6 coes to mind).
Clip a 2 pound ankle weight around your tank neck.
Where to you have your tank strapped, high or low?
The Rogue has nice cushioning on the shoulder straps which is working against you. I don't think you can move the bladder down at all.
Aluminum tanks are not intuitive. We think 'dry' but we play in water. All aluminum tanks are bottom light. Stick them in a pool with a reg but no BC, and you'll notice most sit on the bottom with the reg touching and the rear being a bit floaty while a steel tank lies flat. With a steel tank, when we slide the tank downward, we're causing our legs to drop. With an aluminum tank with a floaty butt, we're not shifting weight, but rather buoyancy. So, moving an aluminum tank all the way down either does pretty much nothing, or it will raise the legs just a tad. Hey, it's worth a try.
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