I recently bought a DIN kit to convert my trusty older Apeks XTX200 FSR first stage, since I got a really good price for that at under $40, but didn't want to spend the money on the specific socket that is normally used to unscrew the yoke nut since this is going to be a one time conversion and that $30 socket would have made this whole thing pretty cost ineffective, so I decided to figure out a way to disassemble the yoke adapter on the cheap, and thought I'd post what I did in case this may be helpful for others contemplating doing the same conversion on their own.
I first tried using adjustable pipe wrenches, and could barely grab the yoke nut, but was unable to exert sufficient torque before the jaws would slip and potentially chip the soft brass on the nut, so I decided to find another way. I've seen other threads on this, including drilling a socket to pass a metal rod through to exert leverage, but found another solution that seems easier to me, so thought I'd post.
I had a 3/4" socket with 3/8" drive that fit within the yoke clamp over the nut, but needed a way to drive it. Only a 1/4 inch extension or smaller would fit through the screw hole, and no adapter could fit, neither could I find a 3/4 inch socket with 1/4 inch drive.
I used a small piece of 3/16 or 1/4" aluminum bar stock I had on hand to cut a small adapter, with a hole to fit the tip of a screwdriver to apply leverage. I drilled a small hole for the screwdriver tip, and then cut a small strip of ~3/8 " width around it (the hole has to be close to the end), the length of the socket. I didn't even have to file it, it went straight in and could lock and rotate the socket.
This adapter cannot be inserted after the socket is in place for lack of clearance within the yoke clamp, hence the length of it is designed to match the socket. First insert the adapter into the socket, then place the socket in the yoke clamp and push it onto the nut. Then the adapter is pushed out, and the hole becomes accessible. You can then insert the tip of a small screwdriver through, and conveniently apply leverage on the handle to untorque the (potentially stubborn) nut. Done!
Materials needed: small length of aluminum bar, or other metal scrap, thin walled 3/4" socket (the one I had came from an old cheapo home depot tool kit), hack saw or band saw or jig saw for cutting the aluminum strip, drill.
Hopefully the pictures make this a little clearer.
I first tried using adjustable pipe wrenches, and could barely grab the yoke nut, but was unable to exert sufficient torque before the jaws would slip and potentially chip the soft brass on the nut, so I decided to find another way. I've seen other threads on this, including drilling a socket to pass a metal rod through to exert leverage, but found another solution that seems easier to me, so thought I'd post.
I had a 3/4" socket with 3/8" drive that fit within the yoke clamp over the nut, but needed a way to drive it. Only a 1/4 inch extension or smaller would fit through the screw hole, and no adapter could fit, neither could I find a 3/4 inch socket with 1/4 inch drive.
I used a small piece of 3/16 or 1/4" aluminum bar stock I had on hand to cut a small adapter, with a hole to fit the tip of a screwdriver to apply leverage. I drilled a small hole for the screwdriver tip, and then cut a small strip of ~3/8 " width around it (the hole has to be close to the end), the length of the socket. I didn't even have to file it, it went straight in and could lock and rotate the socket.
This adapter cannot be inserted after the socket is in place for lack of clearance within the yoke clamp, hence the length of it is designed to match the socket. First insert the adapter into the socket, then place the socket in the yoke clamp and push it onto the nut. Then the adapter is pushed out, and the hole becomes accessible. You can then insert the tip of a small screwdriver through, and conveniently apply leverage on the handle to untorque the (potentially stubborn) nut. Done!
Materials needed: small length of aluminum bar, or other metal scrap, thin walled 3/4" socket (the one I had came from an old cheapo home depot tool kit), hack saw or band saw or jig saw for cutting the aluminum strip, drill.
Hopefully the pictures make this a little clearer.