DIY yoke to DIN conversion w/o yoke nut socket - Apeks

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phoque

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Messages
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Location
Boston
# of dives
200 - 499
I recently bought a DIN kit to convert my trusty older Apeks XTX200 FSR first stage, since I got a really good price for that at under $40, but didn't want to spend the money on the specific socket that is normally used to unscrew the yoke nut since this is going to be a one time conversion and that $30 socket would have made this whole thing pretty cost ineffective, so I decided to figure out a way to disassemble the yoke adapter on the cheap, and thought I'd post what I did in case this may be helpful for others contemplating doing the same conversion on their own.
I first tried using adjustable pipe wrenches, and could barely grab the yoke nut, but was unable to exert sufficient torque before the jaws would slip and potentially chip the soft brass on the nut, so I decided to find another way. I've seen other threads on this, including drilling a socket to pass a metal rod through to exert leverage, but found another solution that seems easier to me, so thought I'd post.
I had a 3/4" socket with 3/8" drive that fit within the yoke clamp over the nut, but needed a way to drive it. Only a 1/4 inch extension or smaller would fit through the screw hole, and no adapter could fit, neither could I find a 3/4 inch socket with 1/4 inch drive.
I used a small piece of 3/16 or 1/4" aluminum bar stock I had on hand to cut a small adapter, with a hole to fit the tip of a screwdriver to apply leverage. I drilled a small hole for the screwdriver tip, and then cut a small strip of ~3/8 " width around it (the hole has to be close to the end), the length of the socket. I didn't even have to file it, it went straight in and could lock and rotate the socket.
This adapter cannot be inserted after the socket is in place for lack of clearance within the yoke clamp, hence the length of it is designed to match the socket. First insert the adapter into the socket, then place the socket in the yoke clamp and push it onto the nut. Then the adapter is pushed out, and the hole becomes accessible. You can then insert the tip of a small screwdriver through, and conveniently apply leverage on the handle to untorque the (potentially stubborn) nut. Done!
Materials needed: small length of aluminum bar, or other metal scrap, thin walled 3/4" socket (the one I had came from an old cheapo home depot tool kit), hack saw or band saw or jig saw for cutting the aluminum strip, drill.
Hopefully the pictures make this a little clearer.
 

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Good job. I did the same recently and struggled got it undone in the end.

I have no memory of how i did it but I know it was tight!
 
A slotted strap style of two-handle wrench also works well for controlled dislodging of tight or crusty yoke nuts, and can be shimmed as needed for a close fit. It's an easy DIY from a cheap strap of mild steel or aluminum, won't flex as spanners can, and works even when the yoke is a tighter shape.

Here's a suitably scuba-priced but crude looking version:

Apollo/Genesis Yoke Nut Adjuster Wrench - Reef Sports : Scuba gear and accessories for sale online in New Zealand
 
With minimal calculations an adjustable wrench coupled with a luggage scale will provide accurate results.
 
I usually use either a 3/4" ring spanner or adjustable wrench. If it's for someone else I use socket and torque wrench. OP, nice, it's fun making stuff.
 
I just show up at the dive shop with a six pack. That usually opens the toolbox for when I need to borrow a tool for 5 minutes.
 
I just remembered a trick for removing those thin or low profile nuts or parts with thin wrench flats. You can grind down the face of the appropriate sized socket flat to produce more engagement. I remember making one but I am not sure if it was for a yoke nut. Migrated all my regs to DIN now so I do not use it anymore.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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