Review Seaskin Nova drysuit

[grantctobin]

I am set on two pockets (I would not like to have everything I mentioned on a single pocket). If expedition are too large, I would rather take a smaller size than reduce the number of pockets. My question is are expedition too large for these contents?

Thanks for your inputs.

Expedition are not too large, especially if you’re not in sidemount. Their expedition pockets are the same size as the LM or Halcyon aftermarket pockets. If there’s less in them, just pull the Velcro flap lower. Avoid the low profile Apeks valve if you can. They’re far more prone to being ****** and arguably harder than the high profile/old school ones to maintain.

I’d encourage considering a P-valve, even if you don’t have a plan to use it in the near future. Three reasons:
1) You’ll be more encouraged to stay hydrated
2) They’re not really noticeable, especially if you aren’t planning to use it and remove the norprene hose. Mostly no downside.
3) A light monkey Tinkle valve is $124ish installed. The same valve is $150 retail (plus tax) and between $50 and $75 to install, depending on who is doing the installation. By yourself, you’re still out $5ish in materials and needing to borrow a punch. The Trigon or others are equally appropriate but cheaper to do this now than later. The unbalanced LM one installed is $60 installed if you order it now, vs $75-100+installation cost after market.

Firm believer in crotch reinforcement. The rest is kind of whatever and depends on use.

 

[David Novo]

1) Plastic
2) no opinion. I prefer zippered pockets and have them on both my Seaskin suits
3) Quick neck. I decided I would not want little parts I could drop or lose - especially if I'm trying to change a seal while out on a boat.
4) Simple
5) no opinion. I have Kubi and love them. But, I almost always wear dry gloves if I'm diving in that suit.
6) Si Tech, definitely. The Apeks Low Profile dump valve is known to be problematic. And who would want the high profile one.

Any reason to prefer the simple warm neck vs the standard? Thanks.

Expedition are not too large, especially if you’re not in sidemount. Their expedition pockets are the same size as the LM or Halcyon aftermarket pockets. If there’s less in them, just pull the Velcro flap lower. Avoid the low profile Apeks valve if you can. They’re far more prone to being ****** and arguably harder than the high profile/old school ones to maintain.

I’d encourage considering a P-valve, even if you don’t have a plan to use it in the near future. Three reasons:
1) You’ll be more encouraged to stay hydrated
2) They’re not really noticeable, especially if you aren’t planning to use it and remove the norprene hose. Mostly no downside.
3) A light monkey Tinkle valve is $124ish installed. The same valve is $150 retail (plus tax) and between $50 and $75 to install, depending on who is doing the installation. By yourself, you’re still out $5ish in materials and needing to borrow a punch. The Trigon or others are equally appropriate but cheaper to do this now than later. The unbalanced LM one installed is $60 installed if you order it now, vs $75-100+installation cost after market.

Firm believer in crotch reinforcement. The rest is kind of whatever and depends on use.

Thanks for the inputs.

 

[StefinSB]

After going through this thread and before the Brexit transitory period ends, I am now preparing to order my first drysuit (Seaskin). So far I have set on the following extras:

- Main Body Dry Zip Cover
- Move Dump (DIR)
- Fully Telescopic Torso
- Increase Braces width to 40mm
- NO Logos on Suit
- NO Reflective Tape on Arms
- PU Crutch Reinforcement
- Kevlar Knee Pads
- PU Shoulder Reinforcement
- Compressed Neoprene Socks
- No pee-valve as I am just diving recreationally and do not see myself going down the tech road (if it happens and this suit is still alive, I would just send it back to install one)

On another hand, I am in doubt regarding the following:
1) Plastic or brass zip (I am leaning towards plastic - what do the other brands use these days?)
2) 2x Pockets large bellows or expedition (I usually carry extra mask and wetnotes on one, smb + spool + mirror + divealert + folded snorkel on the other - could eventually add a nautilus lifeline)
3) Neck seal quick or orust (I am leaning towards the former)
4) Warm neck standard or simple (I am leaning towards the former)
5) Wrist seals oval or slaggo (I doubt that I will ever dive with dry gloves again - Silfra is done - my gloves have zero thermal protection to maximize dexterity - water temperature in Winter does not go below 12C here. Nevertheless, I am leaning towards the former as they seem more robust)
6) Apeks valve (new or old) or sitech

What do you think?

Get the p-valve

 

[stuartv]

Any reason to prefer the simple warm neck vs the standard? Thanks.

It works and is less money.

I have one and have found no reason to want anything bulkier, more complicated, that I have to make sure is "closed", etc..

 

[David Novo]

If I were to get a pee-valve, which would you recommend?

 

[stuartv]

I got the Si Tech Trigon P valve on both my drysuits. I like them just fine. They work. No moving parts. No leaking. More low profile than any other P valve I have seen.

But, they are the only P valves I've ever had.

 

[RainPilot]

Same experience as Stuart, same recommendations. I have found the reflective strips to be really handy in lower vis conditions for buddies to see me with lights, as well as on the surface for night dives. YMMV.

 

[StefinSB]

If I were to get a pee-valve, which would you recommend?

I had a LM on my old suit and it worked so I got a LM again.

 

[stuartv]

Same experience as Stuart, same recommendations. I have found the reflective strips to be really handy in lower vis conditions for buddies to see me with lights, as well as on the surface for night dives. YMMV.

Very valid point.

I deleted all reflectives off my suit because they screw things up when you're in a photo. I like being in photos.

 

[RayfromTX]

photoshopping reflective strips out of photos is super easy.