servicing Apeks High Profile dump valve

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Nicool

Contributor
Messages
80
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Location
Sydney, Australia
# of dives
1000 - 2499
hi guys,
Could anyone share a tutorial or manual taking me through the steps to service myself my Apeks High Profile dump valve? It started leaking last week, despite being water proof for 1+ years.
Youtube is generous on videos when it comes to the more recent Apeks low-profile valve, but not the high profile one...

Please skip comments on whether another drysuit dump valve model is better, i know some prefer Sitech, others prefer Apeks low-profile, and you can find reports of either of these models being water-tight or dropping.

The point of this post is: help me service the valve i have, not buy a new one :)

many thanks
Nicolas
 
They’re relatively simple. Unfortunately, you can only buy the service kit abroad. Once you pull it off the suit, I’d toss the whole thing in hot water and mash the button a few times. Then put it under running water and continue to press the button.

If this does not solve it, insert a small pin or knife into the U shaped retaining notch on the side of the exhaust valve, and rotate the top counter clock wise and it’ll slide out. Clean parts and put back together, ensuring the green ring is in the same orientation you left it in. Most times, a hot water bath and then mashing the button under running water will remove the sand/salt deposit that is forcing a leak. If you’ve only had the valve a year and you’re not storing it next to a can of gasoline, it’s unlikely the internal seals are fried.

If you know anyone with a KISS rebreather, the KISS OPV is just an Apeks high profile dump
 
Addendum to the above: you only need to lift the retaining tab enough to unscrew the dump. Do not lift higher; it’ll break and you’ll need a new valve
 
Addendum to the above: you only need to lift the retaining tab enough to unscrew the dump. Do not lift higher; it’ll break and you’ll need a new valve
Thank you SO MUCH for this clear guidance.
I had already soap-wash the valve and could feel it operate much more smoothly. To be extra sure, i took it apart, cleant a bit (however was very clean already), but now i struggle to re-assemble the top part: it will not screw "deep enough" back in place, and i don't want to apply force if i am unsure of what i am doing.

I don't think i have damaged the retaining tab, but i a actually wondering if i should lift again the retaining tab when screwing the top part, so that it fits back in place, would you know?

Once re-assembled i'll post a few photos for others to see here how it's done.
 
You’ll need to nudge the tab upwards again to reseat the exhaust dump sufficiently in the retainer. Glad you were able to get it apart.
 
You’ll need to nudge the tab upwards again to reseat the exhaust dump sufficiently in the retainer. Glad you were able to get it apart.
hi Grant,
Thanks for that, however once the exhaust dump has passed the retainer, i don't get as much "travel" as i have on my wife's drysuit (also an Apeks high profile dump valve).
With mine, i am down to approximately 120 degrees of movement, so not even a full half turn. I suspect i am able to get the valve fully closed (comparing the height of the exhaust vs my wife's) but certainly it won't go to fully open position.

Any idea of what i have done wrongly?

cheers
Nicolas
 
I imagine the bottom spring retainer is oriented in the wrong direction. Unfortunately it fits in six different spots. The leading edge of the thread should be at 1pm if the retaining notch of the body is at 6pm.
 
I imagine the bottom spring retainer is oriented in the wrong direction. Unfortunately it fits in six different spots. The leading edge of the thread should be at 1pm if the retaining notch of the body is at 6pm.
Thanks a lot Grant. With your advice i managed to reassemble correctly the valve, and during today’s dive it seemed water tight.
When i get a chance i’ll put together a tutorial.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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