Recommendations for first computer

[scubadada]

Air integration is likely above my budget, especially transmitter based - but I especially don't want anything I don't need that potentially is going to cut my dive short.

A Geo 2 at the closeout price and a SPG would serve you very well

 

[Coconut Monkey]

Air integration is likely above my budget, especially transmitter based - but I especially don't want anything I don't need that potentially is going to cut my dive short.

A case study from me. Get an AI dive computer and get a SPG and then evaluate whether you like the combination.

If Yes, then that is it. A transmitter can wait, it will not go anywhere.

If No, then evaluate what you don't like about the combination, what can you adjust to make it suit you( short hose, hose routing etc.), would a transmitter solve the problem?

A Tip, so some of these dive computers and transmitters are products from a single company named Pelagic.What does that mean? So, transmitters from these brands ( Oceanic, Aqualung and Shearwater) can be used with the computers of these three brands without any compromises. Why is this important? based on my research, the transmitters from these three brand are of different price and the Oceanic transmitter is the cheapest one out of three.

 

[MargaritaMike]

Buy a second hand Shearwater Petrel (non AI) or Perdix (non AI or with AI) and you will have no regrets. I bought a Petrel 2 and love it. Easy to learn and use, readable under water, operates on a single AA standard battery and super easy to replace. Good luck with your decision.

I have two different AI computers. One of the expensive ones and a cheaper one. You don't have to use the AI computer with a transmitter. It works fine. I like my "expensive" one because of the ease of use, intuitive operation, and BRIGHT screen with LARGE letters/numbers. It is wrist mounted and easy to read. My cheaper one has much less flexibility on how conservative I can be or not be. It has only locked me out one time, but that was due to my operational error. But once it locks you can't do anything about it until it clears itself. I guess what I'm trying to say is to get the best you can. If you get an AI such as a used Perdix you can add the transmitter later. Don't buy it to serve the next trip. Buy it to serve the rest of your diving experience (if possible).

Reading some of the comments prompts this comment. I keep track of my air so when I look(either AI or with an SPG) it's to confirm what "already know". If it's different then I start my underwater analysis with the computer that is going to save my life. (not the one on my arm)

Whatever you end up with, learn how to use it before you go diving. Learn all of the functions and how to get to them. Get a manual and study it. A computer that you don't know what it's doing can be as harmful as helpful IMO.

Good luck with your decision.

Cheers -

(This probably doesn't make sense and if it doesn't, I apologize)

 

[dmaziuk]

If a reading fails (transient or completely), does the computer still track time at depth in place of tables so you can continue your dive relying on the SPG for air pressure? Or do you need to cut your dive short?

I think it's safe to assume that any computer will keep tracking your time and depth.

The choices:

- Console vs wrist. Air integration is cheaper with the former, display can be larger.
- Air or no air. About the cheapest wireless air integrated computer now is seac guru bought from amazon: ~$300 w/o transmitter.
- Colour vs good old 7-segment TN LCD. The former means $1,000 range and is great for diving in dark water. For bright sunlight: not so much. The latter also run off CR24xx watch batteries that last a couple of years, whereas the former needs bigger batteries and they don't last quite so long.
- For wrist: watch vs puck size. The former adds $$$ while often being too big for a watch.

The cheapest are no air, wrist, puck size, no colour. Main contenders are Pelagic Pressure Systems, of which Oceanic offers DSAT algorithm while AL et al. are only PZ+ (whatever that is), and Suunto and Mares with RGBM. I wouldn't pay much over $200 for any of them, but keep in mind if you want to download your dives you'll need a $100 cable as well. (I.e. a $300 for a one with bluetooth is fair enough.)

 

[soonerwink]

I think the Geo 2.0 and a pressure gauge is a great start for a new diver. Leisure Pro has the Geo 2.0 on sale for $269.00 right now. Plus in the future if you decide to go air integrated you will be able to use the Geo 2.0 as a backup. I personally have the Aqualung i770R and transmitter. I use the Geo2.0 as a backup. I also have a small pressure gauge as a backup. The Geo 2.0 is easy to change the algorithm to match what ever computer you decide to upgrade to in the future, and you will upgrade in the future. Every diver I know has.

 

[MrVegas]

First, I would get a wrist computer. In my family we have three entry-level computers: (1) an Aqualung i300; (2) a Mares Puck Pro; and (3) an entry-level Cressi (Leonardo?). None are air integrated.

They all work fine- no complaints. Anyway, of those, honestly, my favorite is the Mares Puck Pro, which is also the cheapest. The only downside is the one button operation if you have to try to change something on a boat without the instructions. But if you just need to set and forget, it works great. The Cressi does not seem to let you turn off the audible ascent alarm. (Not that you should ever do that, of course.)

 

[Manatee Diver]

Does this matter for a casual recreational dive? Is a console really that much more drag than a gauge?

I've used both for almost a year now (though that will change this week as I retire my Cobra 3). I've never once thought "I am glad that I have a console computer." On the other hand I've often thought "Boy am I glad I have a wrist computer," as with a wrist computer checking it takes literally a moment, just tilt your wrist into view. So regardless of what you are doing, be winding up a spool on ascent, descending down a line in a current, or working a camera you can check it easily.

On the third hand having an air integrated computer has enabled me to see a lot of things with my diving. And the cheapest way to have an AI computer is through a console computer like the Cobra 3 that I will be retiring soon.

 

[scubadada]

I

I've used both for almost a year now (though that will change this week as I retire my Cobra 3). I've never once thought "I am glad that I have a console computer." On the other hand I've often thought "Boy am I glad I have a wrist computer," as with a wrist computer checking it takes literally a moment, just tilt your wrist into view. So regardless of what you are doing, be winding up a spool on ascent, descending down a line in a current, or working a camera you can check it easily.

On the third hand having an air integrated computer has enabled me to see a lot of things with my diving. And the cheapest way to have an AI computer is through a console computer like the Cobra 3 that I will be retiring soon.

I dived an Oceanic Pro Plus 2 from 2002-2010, I snapped it to my right chest D-ring and could always see it by just glancing down. I have dived 2 wrist computers since 2010

 

[bvbellomo]

I want to go with DSAT. Trying to decide between the Oceanic GEO 2.0 and Sherwood Vision, but leaning Oceanic.

Charging $100 for a proprietary USB cable should be a felony.

 

[scubadada]

I want to go with DSAT. Trying to decide between the Oceanic GEO 2.0 and Sherwood Vision, but leaning Oceanic.

Charging $100 for a proprietary USB cable should be a felony.

If you want a console, the Sherwood with QD and download cable is a good very good deal at $340. The closeout Geo 2 and download cable would run you $370, also a very good deal.