Malapascue Trip Report (Live)

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JonnieB

Contributor
Messages
649
Reaction score
324
Location
Phuket, Thailand
# of dives
1000 - 2499
So I'm currently on a dive trip to Malapascue Island and will make a few posts on the experience. The journey started in Bangkok on a good note when my flight on Philippine Airlines to Manila was upgraded from Premium Economy to Business Class because of an aircraft change (the substituted plane didn't have a PE cabin). However, whom the gods raise up they can also bring down, as I found out when my Cebu Pacific flight to Manila, later that nite was delayed about an hour. I finally pulled up to the Bella Vista Hotel in Mactan, Cebu, at 1 a.m. (I had left my place in Bangkok at 11 in the morning the day before.) The Bella Vista, a five minute taxi ride from the airport, was a perfectly adequate hotel for my one nite layover, at about P 1400 (US $ 30). The included breakfast buffet the next morning, while small, was perfectly adequate, and I had my fill of bacon, tasty pancakes, eggs, and toast. I would definitely recommend this hotel for anyone needing a convenient place for a layover while flying into or out of Mactan International Airport.

This being my first trip to Malapascue, I did allot of pre-trip online research and planning and in the end selected Slam's Resort for my stay. I booked my transfer to the island directly with Slam's for P 3000 (about $ 60)(private car to Maya Port). (If you want, you can book a combined car and private ferry transfer for more money but as Inwas arriving during the day, I didn't see the need for a private ferry.) My driver was at the hotel promptly at 8:30 for my scheduled 9:00 a.m. departure. The ride to Maya was a pleasant 3 hour drive up the coastline and through the rolling hillls of Cebu, with a short stop for coffee and to use the...well you know, at the McDonald's in Bogo. There are 2 ferry ports in Maya where you can catch a ferry for the 30 minute ride to Malapascue...the "New Port" and the old one, which strangly enough, is only couple kilometers from the new one. In any case, at the new port there ia a "public" ferry, which costs P 100 per person, and leaves when 15 tickets are sold. As you might duduce, this can present a problem if you come at an odd time or on a day with only a trickle of divers. As you may already have surmised, there is also a private ferry available for P 1500 a trip. So when I rocked up to the ticket office, there were already 2 tickets sold and I would make 3, but that would still leave us 12 short of a full (boat) deck. I went ahead and bought my ticket, sat down next to my traveling compatriots and hoped the wait wouldn't be too long. Shortly thereafter, another solo dive traveler from China arrived. I assume because of the booming Chinese economy, he was willing to pay for a private ferry...and I could share the ride for my share or P 750. I tried to entice the other two to go in as well, therefore bringing the group to 4 and the cost to about P 350 each (an additional 250 pesos as they also credit the original 100 ticket already paid). However, they were having none of it, with one explaining she had plenty of time, despite my best efforts to convince her there might not be more divers along for some time. However, just as I was making my case, a large pick-up pulled-up and disgorged another 4 people who made their way up the pier to the ticket booth. This family group was headed by a friendly Australian chap and I took it upon myself to explain our predicament to him...that even with his family, we were still 7 people short for the "public" ferry to fire-up it's engines and take us to our destination. However, as we were now 8 among us, the price for our own feery was now P 200 a head. At this price, even the previously reluctant two were in so off we all went to start our island adventure. The ride to Malapascua's Bounty Beach is about 30 minutes. This seems to be the main drop-off point on the island and it was only a 5 minute walk from the beach to Slam's Resort , where coincidentally, the Aussie and his family were also staying. I should add that getting on and off the ferry requires a bit of balance and dexterity as you basically have to walk up/down a narrow wooden plank. Getting onto the large banca ferry from the pier is the more tricky because there can be small waves, wheres getting off at the beach you're just walking down the plank into the beach shallows. At both ends, the boat crew will handle your luggage so you just have to get yourself into and off of the boat. I will add those those with mobility challenges may find getting onto the ferry from the pier difficult, but I'm sure the crew could get anyone aboard in a pinch. For the record, all eight of us made it onto the boat without getting wet.

So as I said, the Aussie and his family were also booked into Slam's Resort so we made our way to the resort together and got our first look and impressions of the island. As I write this, it's the end of my second day on the island and I've just had a wonderful dinner at Angalina Italian Restaurant on Logon Beach, the next cove over from Bou ty Beach and 5 minutes from my resort. I also completed a refresher course this morning with Ocean Passion Divers (Slam's resident dive shop), as it's been a number of years since II was last in the water. My next post will cover my impressions of Slam's Resort, my refeesher course , my imprrssions of some of the dive operators I have visited, and my general impressions of the island. Stay tuned...
 
When I was on Mala, many many moons ago, we stayed at the resort directly behind Angalina, and honestly for 5 days I dont think we ate anywhere except for Angalina's!! It was some of the best Italian food I have had in South East Asia!! Glad to hear they are still keeping up the quality!
 
When I was on Mala, many many moons ago, we stayed at the resort directly behind Angalina, and honestly for 5 days I dont think we ate anywhere except for Angalina's!! It was some of the best Italian food I have had in South East Asia!! Glad to hear they are still keeping up the quality!
Yes, I was told by the Spanish instructor who did my refresh that Angelinas, Amihan (next sand), and Kolkays Maldito are the best feeds on the island...all conviently located within 5 minutes walk from my resort (Slam's). Tasty wood-fired oven pizzas and creamy homemade gelato ice-cream for dessert...what's not to like.
 
I have now been on Malapasque for 3 days/nites and have a few dives under by weight-belt, so will give some impressions of Slam's Resort, Ocean Passion divers, and Fun and Sun divers, with whom I did a couple local dives yesterday. My overall impressions of Slam's are positive...it's conveniently located 5 minutes walk from Bounty Beach (ferry drop-off point and islands "malecon). My air-con twin doubles room is clean and spacious, with strong and quiet split air-conditioner. There is also a mini-fridge. The water and toilet pressure is good (it goes down ☺). The in-room wifi is pretty useless but the signal at the resto is strong so it's easy to get work done there. All rooms have a nice balcony area, with a benxh and chair which is convenient for lounging or drying gear. The resort has a large pool, which is great for an evening swim. The staff are warm and friendly, as is customary in the Philippines. The included breakfast would be my one complaint...there is a choice of the basics off a menu, eggs,bacon, pancakes, cereal, rice soup, etc. but it's just okay and nothing special. The banana shakes, however, are tasty. I have not eaten any food at the resort resto other than the breakfast (included in my room rate). As of this time, early April 2019, there is construction of an additional building at the resort so there is some noise during the day but nothing too annoying; and they look to be 90% done. I should also note that my booking and check-in process went off without a hitch. I made the reservation online directly at the resort's website and paid directly through Pay-Pal. (The direct rates were a good bit cheaper than anything else I found online (Booking.com, Agoda, etc.) As mentioned previously, I also booked my land transfer from Cebu to Maya through the resort.

The resort dive operator is Ocean Passion divers and I did a scuba refresher course with them the day after my arrival. They are a new shop and are not completely up and running...they don't yet have Nitrox available or computers for rent for example. However, the plus side is all their other rental gear (Cressi BCDs and suits, Aqua Lung regs) is new. There is a spacious gear rinse and drying area. My rrfresh instructor did a great job and I was very happy him. The reason I didn't continue and do my fun dives with them is because they didn't have the aforementioned Nitrox and rental computers, both of which I needed for this trip. Up next will be a impressions of the island itself and other dive operators I visited. Stay tuned...
 
In this installment, I will go over Malapascua Island itself. The island is a 30 minute banka boat ride from New Maya Port at the northern tip of Cebu. It is a small, flat, sandy island, which can be traversed on foot, from end to end, in 30-40 minutes. Almost all the tourist related infrustructure (resorts, bungalows, market, dive shops) are located along the 500 meter long Bounty Beach and the adjacent, much smaller, Logon Beach. The island is a typical "Robinson Caruso" diver's paradise of relaxed laid-back living. The water, beaches, and island itself is pretty clean, considering the number of visitors, and there is to be a concerted effort to keep it that way, with plentiful trash recepticals placed about and public clean-up activities. The beach sand is small grain, deep, and white, but not of a powdery consistency. There is shallow water/reef (1-2 m) out to 200-300 meters along most of the length of Bounty Beach for swimming and snorkeling.

Other than resorts, dive shops, and a public market, there isn't much on the island. The local population is about 2500. The public market has open-air food stalls and a general store selling packaged food and snacks, toiletries, alcohol, clothes, and a few other basic necessities. There is also Day Day Sovenirs, a small mini-mart which also has a limited selection of toiletries, food/beverages, t-shirts, and the like. My advice is to come to the island with everything you think you will need for your stay...as finding something you need on the island may be challenging. The last point of civilization is the town of Bogo on the drive from Cebu City to Maya Port. Stop at the markets or 7-11s there and lay in your supplies. (There is no comprehensive retail dive shop on the island...some of the dive operators have a few basic bits and bobs for sale but nothing comprehensive. Again, if you need it...being it.)

During your stay, you'll be walking the stretch of path along Bounty Beach many times (getting from your resort to your dive shop and back...unless you're staying at one of the beachfront resorts...or even if you are, to get to and from the best restos on the island (which aren't on Bounty Beach but more on them later)). This can get very tiring due to the heat and the soft sand, which you sink into with every step. You will want to familiarize yourself with the dirt path running behind and parallel to most ot the length of Bounty Beach...it's much harder and solid and makes the walk much easier...walk it and then take one of the 3-4 cuts off there that lead to Bounty Beach nearest to where you want to go. Day Day market is also midway along this path.

The main stretch of Bounty Beach, from Blue Corals Resort to Fun and Sun Divers, is the busiest part of the island. Many of the larger dive operators and their resorts are located here. The section from Sun and Fun to Atlantic/Evolution Divers is the prettier and quieter stretch of beach. This area is great for lazing about on the beach or swimming/snorkeling, because there are fewer boats ancored offshore or pulled-up onto the beach. The beachfront of Atlantic/Evolution divers is particularly nice. A note about staying at Atlantic/Evolution, these are the most remote of the major resorts and about a 10 minute walk to Bounty Beach central, and 20-25 minutes to Logon Beach, where those best restos I mentioned earlier are located. If you just plan to dive, eat, and stay at either Atlantic or Evolution, and their resorts and restos have a great setting and you don't have to leave them if you don't want to, you will be fine. However, if you like to get out and about during your stay, it will be a bit of a trek going and coming each time from these resorts.

Finally, we come to Logon Beach, which is a much smaller beach/cove that has some smaller local resorts and dive operators. It is not the best beach for sunning and swimming because it's much smaller, has numerous boats on the beach and anchored off shore, and has extreme tides. However, the far left side of the beach (near Blanco Resort) is very nice, without the boats and many nice shading trees. It also has those restos, which I will go into on my next post as I've already gone along long enough for this one. Stay tuned...
 
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