Adapter (DIN/Yoke) material significant?

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dulinor

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I’m pretty sure this is a non-issue but thought I’d ask: does a DIN/Yoke adapter need to match the material of a first stage?

The only reason I ask is that I’m considering a used Atomic setup, which happens to be DIN. My usual dive group are all Yoke - so dive operators, etc will all be set up that way. I did a quick search and noticed that Atomic makes separate adapters for each of their first stage materials (titanium, zinc, etc.) Do people really pay hundreds of dollars over a generic adapter just so the wheel matches the branding on their second stage?

The only other reason I could imagine would be to avoid galvanic corrosion or something but that seems remote. After all, the tanks themselves are presumably steel or aluminum.
 
Some adapters are lighter and, for people like me, having DIN and flying where the cylinders have A-Clamp valves, weight can be a concern.
I bought a lightweight alloy scubapro din adapter paying not more than 50$ a couple years ago.
For comparison purposes, the Apeks adapter (should be chrome-plated brass ) cost even more, while a generic brand chrome-plated brass adapter can be bought between 20$ and 30$.
I'd not consider titanium because O2 compatibility and cost.
Galvanic corrosion for the adapters is not an issue.
Anyway hundreds of dollars is a nonsense for a DIN Adapter, unless it's made of solid gold :wink:
 
I have a fairly cheap XS scuba yoke adaptor for my atomic. It's it's worked just fine for the past three years when I do my travel dives in the Caribbean.
 
If you have concerns simply remove the adapter at the end of the day and clean the connection. I always remove mine, otherwise the weight of the adapter quickly turns the first stage into a medieval weapon!
 
Instead of an adapter, consider buying the yoke conversion kit for your regulator. There's less weight and bulk, and you'd be surprised how easy it is to just convert a regulator to yoke from DIN (or vice versa).

I don't work on or otherwise service my own regulators. After owning din regs and occasionally using a yoke adapter for a year or so, I decided to try converting it back. It took me about 10 minutes the first time I did it, now it takes me 2 or 3 minutes. Most people would probably be surprised how super simple it is to do. That first time I did it, I was sitting on a picnic table and using tools from my save-a-dive kit. It only requires one regular wrench and one allen wrench.

FWIW, I'm using scubapro mk25 first stages. I'm assuming that Atomic first stages would be very simple to convert also - but I guess I could be wrong.
 
I confirm that the conversion is easy and with no risks at all (at least on Apeks), but I always hoping to find cylinder valves having the possibility to convert from A-Clamp to DIN just removing the inner part ... so I bring with me a lightweight adapter just in case the conversion is impossible.
I prefer to use the DIN connection because it is less bulky and, last but not least, uses o-ring from the regulator and not from the cylinder and I'm pretty sure to look after my ones ...
 
The material of the adapter is immaterial. What is material is the quality of adapter. Some are cheap with cast threads that are sharp to the touch. That sharpness digs into the chrome plating on brass regs which one does not want. The adapters made by Atomic and most other named brands are good adapters. Stay away from the no name generic ones.

Regarding Atomic, you can easily get the yoke and yoke retainer and swap out the DIN. Shameless plug, this weekend I will putting up for sale and Atomic Ti reg - it too is DIN but will come with the Ti adapter. It just came across my bench and I am waiting for one last part for it, a new Ti swivel hose.
 
Thanks - I figured it was something like that but when I saw the $400 Titanium adapter and the $200 Stainless adapter from the same company I started to wonder if it was just a bling tax. Seems to be.

(I'm ditching my current regulator set - Oceanic - because I just can't get parts for it reliably. My wife dives a Z2 so using the same system has certain advantages.)
 
It is not really bling tax but material and machining costs. Ti and SS cost more and are harder to work with than brass. So one is paying for that and quality more than anything else.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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