Getting the green out of a GoPro

[broncobowsher]

So I sometimes bring a GoPro Hero 5 black on some dives. And can just about guarantee everything will have a green tint to it. The simple fix, a red filter. Not so simple. It tints everything red on the surface or very near. And very often the green is so strong that it isn't enough correction at depth. I also end up with an air bubble between the filter and the case putting a dot in every picture and all through the video (I typically set it for video with a still every 10 seconds).

So I am thinking of ditching the filter and looking for post production solutions. I thought I saw a software package once that can be used to tune out the green, but I can't remember what it was or where I saw it. Or is there another simply solution? Any setting I should play around with?

I am no means a photographer. I have no desire to step up to a dedicated dive camera. Just trying to make what I have work good enough to have a few pictures I can stick on the phone.

I did search around looking for answers and fixes. Didn't see anything. But that doesn't mean I am even looking in the right place. If you can point me in a direction it would be appreciated.

 

[Marie13]

Is the water green? A magenta filter is what we use for green quarry water.

 

[dbnewton]

So I sometimes bring a GoPro Hero 5 black on some dives. And can just about guarantee everything will have a green tint to it. The simple fix, a red filter. Not so simple. It tints everything red on the surface or very near. And very often the green is so strong that it isn't enough correction at depth. I also end up with an air bubble between the filter and the case putting a dot in every picture and all through the video (I typically set it for video with a still every 10 seconds).

So I am thinking of ditching the filter and looking for post production solutions. I thought I saw a software package once that can be used to tune out the green, but I can't remember what it was or where I saw it. Or is there another simply solution? Any setting I should play around with?

I am no means a photographer. I have no desire to step up to a dedicated dive camera. Just trying to make what I have work good enough to have a few pictures I can stick on the phone.

I did search around looking for answers and fixes. Didn't see anything. But that doesn't mean I am even looking in the right place. If you can point me in a direction it would be appreciated.

I use a gopro and red filter that is tethered and easially removable. Seems to work reasonably well. But ultimately the solution is bring your own light and lots of it. The "problem" is lack of light, more pronounced at longer wavelength end of the spectrum. Filters and post processing don't replace the missing light. I've compared my immages with a dive buddy using same gopro but much more light and the difference is profound. Mine sucked compared to his.

 

[DivealotZA]

Is the water green? A magenta filter is what we use for green quarry water.

This

Green water = Magenta,
Blue water = Red

With regards to it putting a tint at the surface, and bubbles...I cant really help here, maybe with more use you'll just get better at adding/removing it between the surface and depth?

Is it the official GoPro filter? When I did some post image processing without filters on my gopro, it was never the same as using a filter

 

[Kharon]

+1 - magenta filter - and put the filter on after splashing. Use a short waxed string to tether it to the camera or mount so it doesn't float away. Finally, depth doesn't matter in green (lake) water. Use the filter from the surface down.

 

[rhwestfall]

this is where the "Flip" filters shine.....

flip it up to swipe/rid bubbles or to get a shot above water, and flip it down to shoot underwater.... no lost (or risk of lost) parts. YMMV

 

[broncobowsher]

Mostly fresh water. Looking for the receipt to show which one I got. I think it was only the red (and not pink for the coral).
Sounds like I am I the market for some lighting, and that means a tray as well. Not in the budget right now, but gives me time to research. Any suggestions?
Guess I better start with just the Magenta filter and remember to put it on after hitting the water

 

[DivingPanda]

I have the Hero3+ with official filter (red for ocean) and have actually never had a problem with bubbles. The holes around the edges seem to be big enough that water gets in easily.

Definitely +1 on adding a light. I use the SeaLife Mini Sea Dragon 600 clipped to the bottom of a selfie stick with the GoPro mounted on top and have been very happy with it for general video use (certainly good enough for Facebook). The newer Mini 650 Flood has a wider beam and push button control, and would be my choice today.

$160 for the Mini 650; $12 for the selfie stick at your local cell phone store (just make sure it has the grooves on the sides rather than top and bottom, to match the light mount; replace as needed).

 

[Rred]

Doesn't the Hero have an automatic white balance option in the software settings? Most digital cameras provide for that. The camera can be set to make different lighting conditions (daylight, fluorescents, tungsten lighting, sodium street lights, etc.) all look properly "white". Usually by pointing the camera at a neutral setting and using a menu option to reset the "white" balance, or by scrolling through different presets.

I'm not familiar with video software, but for stills almost everything allows for post-processing to change color balance. And yes, sometimes even auto-correction of color. For that matter...if you really get into photography (still or video) folks do color correction for the particular gamut of the device they'll be viewing on. You correct one image 3+ different ways, one for print, one for projection, one for LED screens...etcetera. All, and always, in post-production software.

 

[kelemvor]

@rhwestfall got to it before I did. This problem is the whole reason flip filters exist. You flip the red (or magenta) filter on once you are submerged. Filtered video will look far better than video corrected in post processing.

Lights if you're doing stuff that is reasonably close, but video lights don't go far underwater.

Or, get the flip filter and lights. Turn the lights on and flip the filter "off" when you want to film something close up. Turn the lights off and flip the filter "on" when you're in the water and not doing a close-up. Both off on or near the surface. Do what you can to correct the rest in post. Processed video tends to look better than unprocessed and unfiltered but lights or filters would be my preference.