A ScubaBoard Staff Message...
What dive computer should I get
- Thread starter Wesg1231
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
- Messages
- 26,281
- Reaction score
- 5,874
- # of dives
- I'm a Fish!
Hi,
Everyone this is my first time on this sight and i was wondering if i could get any help deciding what dive computer i should get. I want some thing below $300and something that looks nice and i could wear all the time. I looked at the G SHOK Range man but I am not sure if it tells you the depth you are at. Thank you so much,wesg1231
Wes a G-Shock is a watch not a dive computer.
There are no $300 suggested retail watch-style computers. Costs too much to engineer at that price point.
See if this meets your definition of "hybrid" I'd find it too bulky to wear daily. At $200 it's probably a close-out though.
Aeris Manta Scuba and Free Diving Wrist Computer Titanium at LeisurePro
At $350 there's a Uwatec Meridian in Silver on sale. Personally I think it's a little thick for daily wear. Uwatec is distributed by ScubaPro.
Uwatec Meridian Wrist Computer, Silver at LeisurePro
At $400 a Sherwood Amphos might also be a contender. But that price does not include the transmitter or wireless Air Integration. Although you can add it later. Sherwood Amphos Wrist Computer at LeisurePro
Maybe? - Tusa Talis Wrist Computer at LeisurePro
A ScubaPro Chromis kind of looks like a fat G-Shock. They're $519.
Uwatec Chromis Wrist Computer at LeisurePro
Unless you're just showing off...I think I'd personally buy a G-Shock and a $300 computer.
In fact I have - I wear a G-Shock daily - also dive with it. And a Suunto on the same wrist.
which g shock do you dive with? Also do you know if the hangman tells you the depth?diversteve
- Messages
- 26,281
- Reaction score
- 5,874
- # of dives
- I'm a Fish!
One similar to this one. GDX6900-1 - Classic - Mens Watches | Casio - G-Shock
The important thing to look for in a dive watch is the 200M water resistance rating. (they probably all have it)
It's what they call Super-Illuminator so it's really bright when activated u/w. Figured that might be useful on night dives.
I seem to get 6-7 years from the 10 year battery - this is my second in as many years.
Mostly it's just to track time since my computer doesn't show the actual time unless I switch to a secondary screen.
I don't understand your second question...
- Messages
- 26,281
- Reaction score
- 5,874
- # of dives
- I'm a Fish!
No -
There is one Casio watch (not a G-Shock) with a depth gauge. For the price ($550) you're better off buying a good wrist computer instead - SPF100S-1V - Sea Pathfinder Diver Watch
There is one Casio watch (not a G-Shock) with a depth gauge. For the price ($550) you're better off buying a good wrist computer instead - SPF100S-1V - Sea Pathfinder Diver Watch
drrich2
Contributor
Reading over this thread, I get the impression some folks are new to diving and don't yet have a real good handle on dive computers. A few basic observations:
1.) A dive computer will almost certainly give you current depth, dive duration and remaining NDL. And generally an ascent rate indicator. Those I've used will, if you have gone past some depth or whatever triggers it, alert you to do a 3 minute safety stop and count it down for you. Most modern computers can be set to nitrox instead of air, and provide the longer NDL times nitrox allows. The computer can keep up with your estimated residual nitrogen loading so as to shorten repetitive dive NDLs where needed.
2.) Some dive computers can also log your dives, and offer an option to download them to your PC. Expensive computers will likely include the download cable, and inexpensive ones will not. The download cables tend to be proprietary and sell for around $100.
3.) Some computers have intuitive interfaces, which is a big plus. The Atomic Aquatics Cobalt 2 does (I've got a Cobalt 1); from what I understand the LiquiVision Lynx is supposed to, and people claim the Petrel is easy to use. These computers tend to cost way over $300, though. At the other extreme, some computers are reminiscent of programing a digital watch, and may border on impossible if you don't have a manual handy. And the manual may be lousy to work with. Be warned that from what I hear, some of the 'big color screen, intuitive interface' wrist units may have much shorter battery life than some of the older style wrist units.
4.) Some console computers offer air integration; that means they double as an SPG. If the computer logs divings, it'll probably log your start & end pressure. A reputable computer of this type is the Oceanic ProPlus 3.
5.) Some computers offer the option for air integration by adding an expensive wireless transmitter to an HP port on your regulator's 1st stage. A computer that can do this will probably log dives. It's not necessary, and it costs money, but it's very convenient for logging start & end pressures on multi-dive days (e.g.: shore diving Bonaire, or boat diving a live-aboard), and it's nice to glance at your wrist & see depth, NDL and gas pressure.
6.) Wrist units tend to come in puck style, or watch style. Seems like we get quite a few posts from people who plan to wear it as a full time watch. I don't think many people do. It's going to run through the battery faster than a watch, I believe, and what's the point? If you dive the equivalent of maybe 3 weeks per year, why wear a dive computer 52 weeks? Puck style have larger screens and are easier to read. There are even dive mask computers, but those don't seem nearly as common. People often use a protective film over the computer's screen; might detract from a stylish look on a 'watch.'
7.) Some computers have additional features. The Lynx lets you & a Lynx-diving buddy use a locator feature to find each other.
8.) $300 is kind of low end for a dive computer price, although some sell cheaper and may serve your needs.
9.) Some computers have a user replaceable battery. This is nice.
10.) Some dive computers have digital compasses, yet many of us prefer analogue compasses. I don't think you'll get a digital compass right now in a $300 model.
Richard.
1.) A dive computer will almost certainly give you current depth, dive duration and remaining NDL. And generally an ascent rate indicator. Those I've used will, if you have gone past some depth or whatever triggers it, alert you to do a 3 minute safety stop and count it down for you. Most modern computers can be set to nitrox instead of air, and provide the longer NDL times nitrox allows. The computer can keep up with your estimated residual nitrogen loading so as to shorten repetitive dive NDLs where needed.
2.) Some dive computers can also log your dives, and offer an option to download them to your PC. Expensive computers will likely include the download cable, and inexpensive ones will not. The download cables tend to be proprietary and sell for around $100.
3.) Some computers have intuitive interfaces, which is a big plus. The Atomic Aquatics Cobalt 2 does (I've got a Cobalt 1); from what I understand the LiquiVision Lynx is supposed to, and people claim the Petrel is easy to use. These computers tend to cost way over $300, though. At the other extreme, some computers are reminiscent of programing a digital watch, and may border on impossible if you don't have a manual handy. And the manual may be lousy to work with. Be warned that from what I hear, some of the 'big color screen, intuitive interface' wrist units may have much shorter battery life than some of the older style wrist units.
4.) Some console computers offer air integration; that means they double as an SPG. If the computer logs divings, it'll probably log your start & end pressure. A reputable computer of this type is the Oceanic ProPlus 3.
5.) Some computers offer the option for air integration by adding an expensive wireless transmitter to an HP port on your regulator's 1st stage. A computer that can do this will probably log dives. It's not necessary, and it costs money, but it's very convenient for logging start & end pressures on multi-dive days (e.g.: shore diving Bonaire, or boat diving a live-aboard), and it's nice to glance at your wrist & see depth, NDL and gas pressure.
6.) Wrist units tend to come in puck style, or watch style. Seems like we get quite a few posts from people who plan to wear it as a full time watch. I don't think many people do. It's going to run through the battery faster than a watch, I believe, and what's the point? If you dive the equivalent of maybe 3 weeks per year, why wear a dive computer 52 weeks? Puck style have larger screens and are easier to read. There are even dive mask computers, but those don't seem nearly as common. People often use a protective film over the computer's screen; might detract from a stylish look on a 'watch.'
7.) Some computers have additional features. The Lynx lets you & a Lynx-diving buddy use a locator feature to find each other.
8.) $300 is kind of low end for a dive computer price, although some sell cheaper and may serve your needs.
9.) Some computers have a user replaceable battery. This is nice.
10.) Some dive computers have digital compasses, yet many of us prefer analogue compasses. I don't think you'll get a digital compass right now in a $300 model.
Richard.
For under $300, you're not going to get a watch sized DC. The g-shock is just a watch, there is no depth gauge on it. Citizen do a watch that also has a depth gauge, but it's a lot more than you want to spend. Unless you find a really good deal on a used bit of kit, you're just going to have to compromise on something, whether it's what you get or what you spend.
Degenerate
Contributor
I got a Suunto Zoop (black) for ~160 euro something brand new.
It does everything I need it to and is very easy to maneuver through the menus, after 10 mins on YouTube I knew it inside out.
It's nitrox compatible (21-50% I think) too if you'd like to use that as well.
Battery can be easily replaced by yourself also.
It's a very simple yet effective dive computer, which is why most dive shops around my neck of the woods use them as rentals.
Edit: just noticed you're looking for something for everyday wear, my bad...
I would get a real dive computer if I were you though, compromises usually mean that you'll miss out on some functions from both kinds.
Get a Zoop cheap and get a regular wrist watch, you'll most likely have to take it off everytime you're getting your suit on anyways so might as well swap it for a DC for dives
Tapatalked
It does everything I need it to and is very easy to maneuver through the menus, after 10 mins on YouTube I knew it inside out.
It's nitrox compatible (21-50% I think) too if you'd like to use that as well.
Battery can be easily replaced by yourself also.
It's a very simple yet effective dive computer, which is why most dive shops around my neck of the woods use them as rentals.
Edit: just noticed you're looking for something for everyday wear, my bad...
I would get a real dive computer if I were you though, compromises usually mean that you'll miss out on some functions from both kinds.
Get a Zoop cheap and get a regular wrist watch, you'll most likely have to take it off everytime you're getting your suit on anyways so might as well swap it for a DC for dives
Tapatalked
Similar threads
