DRIS 1000 still best of this style?

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I have a hard time turning my DRIS lights on, especially with heavy gloves. I have small hands with a little bit of neurological weakness from a neck injury. Any tips to make them easier to turn?

These LED lights have such a long battery life that an alternative is to turn it on before donning your gloves and put it in a pocket. I would suggest rechargeable batteries with this technique. This is a practical but inelegant solution to the problem until you can find a suitable light with an easily-operated magnetic switch.
 
These LED lights have such a long battery life that an alternative is to turn it on before donning your gloves and put it in a pocket. I would suggest rechargeable batteries with this technique. This is a practical but inelegant solution to the problem until you can find a suitable light with an easily-operated magnetic switch.

I have tried both the long and short versions with rechargeable batteries and not been happy with the results.
 
I have tried both the long and short versions with rechargeable batteries and not been happy with the results.

Happy with the results is a relative term. I would not be happy being unable to turn the light on and off. Given the options of having it on during the entire dive and not being able to turn it on during the dive I would choose having it on or leaving it on deck. Obviously the best choice is finding a light that can be turned on and off during the dive with whatever physical limitation exists.
 
These LED lights have such a long battery life that an alternative is to turn it on before donning your gloves and put it in a pocket. I would suggest rechargeable batteries with this technique. This is a practical but inelegant solution to the problem until you can find a suitable light with an easily-operated magnetic switch.
That's what I usually do. I leave them facing down on my harness so that it doesn't bother anyone and left on, in case I need it. One on, one off. I can turn them on and off but its difficult. I would not want to need the light in a hurry while stuck in the dark with no light.
 
Happy with the results is a relative term. I would not be happy being unable to turn the light on and off. Given the options of having it on during the entire dive and not being able to turn it on during the dive I would choose having it on or leaving it on deck. Obviously the best choice is finding a light that can be turned on and off during the dive with whatever physical limitation exists.

LOL fair enough. Although I don't have any issues turning them on and off, I generally always have my light on - I tend to use the shorty more - and AA batteries are cheap enough I don't worry about it. With the rechargeable batteries I would get one good dive. With the alkaline batteries I can get at least 2, perhaps three and the light seems brighter. The brightness is important to me as I bought it for its punch.
 
Not to turn this into a discussion about brightness measurements, but why is the SEAC R1 billed as 150 lumens, but the DRIS 1000 as "1000"? I know there are numerous threads discussing the significance of lumen ratings.

Lumen vs Lux « Rob Neto

---------- Post added November 3rd, 2013 at 05:37 PM ----------

I have a hard time turning my DRIS lights on, especially with heavy gloves. I have small hands with a little bit of neurological weakness from a neck injury. Any tips to make them easier to turn?

That's one of the reasons I like push button activation lights. I don't have neurological issues but I also use my R1 for a mask light and trying to twist on a light doesn't work well when it's on your mask or helmet.
 
My DRIS lights are nice enough that I may repurpose them and buy a couple of lights with magnetic switches. I have a can light now, which I love. The DRIS lights are a little long for my harness anyway, just barely fitting between my chest d-ring and waist band.
 
Thanks for the replies so far. Looks like there are several options to consider.


Could you clarify what you are looking to improve compared to your Dorcy? As far as I can tell, it's a great backup - decent brightness, nice beam, and batteries last a long time. For tropical night dives most people recommend a light that's not too bright but has a wider angle (which should be great in clear water). DRIS might be both too bright for night life and the beam angle might be too narrow. (BTW, I don't own one, so I am basing it on youtube videos/online reviews).
. . .

I'm not necessarily looking to "improve" on the Dorcy 220, just find something in a similar class that perhaps capitalizes on improvements in the technology (e.g., longer batter life, fewer batteries) and/or has additional features that the mfr was able to include for about the same price (due to those technological improvements). As we all know, as electronic things evolve, they tend to become more powerful and/or more economical.

Is the DRIS "1000" in fact brighter than the Dorcy "220"? (Again, those confusing lumen ratings.)

The adjustable-beam Hollis LED 3x at $49 seems like a good deal. It's at least as bright as the Dorcy 220? You think the DRIS 1000 (Shorty or original) might be TOO bright? It's not just difficult--it's impossible--to tell much from videos on line. Hence my request for insights here from people who have actually used different lights.
 

I will admit to only scanning that article because all I am concerned about right now is if the light you are selling is brighter or not then the DRIS 1000. Is that in the article or does that article just describe the difference between LUX and LUMEN and how they relate to diving?
 
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The 1000's are BRIGHT... way brighter than the 220's. (Or at least the ones I have been exposed to, personally - i know there is some variety in individual lights.) On a couple of cave dives, a friend's 21W HID failed on the exit and their buddy didn't even realize they had switched to the DRIS1000s - they were that bright. (Friend had the battery problem addressed after second failure <g>)
 

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