Dive With Own Boat

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I disagree that the anchor line should be shackled to the boat. My anchor line is tied off to a cleat
(a Norman Pin, actually) that the boat builder put there for that purpose. The bitter end is eye-spliced
and clipped to the bow lifting eye with a stainless steel carabiner. When stuff happens (and it has a
couple of times) we can unclip the bitter end, clip it to a fender, untie from the cleat, drop the
rode overboard and be underway in about a minute.

True but it doesn't take very much longer to clip the safety wire and remove the shackle pin. I just don't trust any type of clip or carabiner.
 
I just don't trust any type of clip or carabiner.
You don't climb then do you? I trust my life to a locking carabiner all the time...
 
I mainly dive off private boats. I solo dive off my boat often.

the key is to use your head.

I grew up on the water and in a boat. I will without doubt say that i have more time running a boat than many professional captains.

common sense goes a long way. i will get blasted for saying this but sometimes this site is a huge nanny...

we hook into the wrecks with grappling hooks.

when i dive jetties, i anchor.. but come on people.... the right anchor, good scope, and making sure it is set and you should have no issues.. hell, you should not be diving in conditions that would cause a decent anchor to drag...
 
You don't climb then do you? I trust my life to a locking carabiner all the time...

This is really an apples and oranges comparison: They are not the same thing...

A good carabiner will have a rating on it that is specified in kN, Kilo newton, or Newtons of force. The idea behind a carabiner is that if a person falls off a cliff and accelerates with gravity, they will generate a great deal of force when brought back to rest by the carabiner.

The carbiners I have used were all designed with two things in mind:

First, they will bend and flex when put to the test of stopping a person, and if used repeatedly will break.

Second, all carabiners are to be replaced if subjected to that type of fall or flexion.

If you can imagine a boat at anchor, bobbing in the swells, you are essentially placing repeated strain on the carabiner, which is something they are not designed to do.

In the case of small boats, there isn't much to fault the carabiner, it would likely hold a 3,000 pound boat in a steady breeze and small swell without a problem. However, if we get into anything heavier than that, I'd be very reluctant to use the carabiner.

Another point about carabiners is that it is possible to purchase the non-climbing type without knowing what you're buying. They're everywhere and even if it had a lock mechanism, you could possibly be buying a carabiner that is os questionable quality.

My final point about carbiners, is that they are far more expensive than a shackle. In fact REI is asking $9.50 for the basic Omega screwgate carabiner. I can get 3 or 4 1/2" shackles for that price at the store.

Here's a good report on anchors, hope it helps:
Catenary & Scope In Anchor Rode: Anchor Systems For Small Boats
 
This is really an apples and oranges comparison: They are not the same thing...

A good carabiner will have a rating on it that is specified in kN, Kilo newton, or Newtons of force. The idea behind a carabiner is that if a person falls off a cliff and accelerates with gravity, they will generate a great deal of force when brought back to rest by the carabiner.

The carbiners I have used were all designed with two things in mind:

First, they will bend and flex when put to the test of stopping a person, and if used repeatedly will break.

Second, all carabiners are to be replaced if subjected to that type of fall or flexion.

If you can imagine a boat at anchor, bobbing in the swells, you are essentially placing repeated strain on the carabiner, which is something they are not designed to do.

In the case of small boats, there isn't much to fault the carabiner, it would likely hold a 3,000 pound boat in a steady breeze and small swell without a problem. However, if we get into anything heavier than that, I'd be very reluctant to use the carabiner.

Another point about carabiners is that it is possible to purchase the non-climbing type without knowing what you're buying. They're everywhere and even if it had a lock mechanism, you could possibly be buying a carabiner that is os questionable quality.

My final point about carbiners, is that they are far more expensive than a shackle. In fact REI is asking $9.50 for the basic Omega screwgate carabiner. I can get 3 or 4 1/2" shackles for that price at the store.

Here's a good report on anchors, hope it helps:
Catenary & Scope In Anchor Rode: Anchor Systems For Small Boats

And can you tell me how the bitter end is going to see those forces? Or do you mean when it is tied off to a buoy? Why dredge up a 7 month old post?
 
Another thread revival, so I will join in with my only other thought on the subject.

If you are going to dive off a private boat and leave it unmanned at the surface, others have already mentioned many good points but have neglected this one. An underwater sonar can be priceless to you. I had one called a "Scout". There was a transmitter that I would clip to the anchor line when I descended and a receiver that I carried with me. When I would get ready to return to the anchor line, I could always find it. If the visibility went bad or the anchor had broke loose and dragged, I still found the line for a safe ascent directly to my boat.

If you do not have the anchor line tied into something solid, IMHO you are foolish to not have a sonar. Things happen during a dive and not having a boat to come back to is not a good feeling. I was rescued at sea once and returned to my boat and that was enough for me to purchase a sonar. It was one of the smartest and best scuba purchases I have ever made. Just the comfort level increase was awesome.
 
I had one called a "Scout".
I have the more accurate Sport model from Desert Star Systems, and am not sold on it. If in doubt or conditions warrant it I just run line. Never had a sever anchor dragging problem "yet", but I also always dive down the anchor line and check it. In sand I have seen it walk a couple feet before setting properly.

Using a DAN SMB I sometimes also set up a strobe. Although it can be hard to spot in bad vis.
 
I dove off my own boats for 40 years and never had a problem with the boat. I assume location has a lot to do with the trust factor. If you cannot feel confident about leaving your boat I would not do it. You'd have to find a friend or two that can stay on top and snorkel or fish while you're down. I completely agree with "Captain" about knowing what you are doing. There is a lot to being the captain of any size boat. There's even more to know when scuba diving off the boat. Having O2 onboard, knowing where the nearest decompression chamber is, an emergency plan of procedure can all be added to the Captain's list. I think it's worth learning. I loved having the freedom of my own boat. Just consider all these facts and take it slow and safe. Adventure-Ocean
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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