Getting Horizontal Trim

[befee]

As a slight change in topic, I hope the way you wrote this indicates that you now know you should not clip any kind of surface float to yourself while diving. A boat snagging it (and they love to use them for slalom gates for some reason) would be quite unpleasant.

Let just say the flag was "passed off" to me without me knowing while I was working on my trim. But I am quite aware of the dangers that surround being connected to a surface marker.

You are head heavy and dropping your knees to compensate. I know you think you are foot heavy, but you aren't. Switch to an ali plate and put the lead necessary on your waist (which is close to your CG). (Note that even if I'm 100% wrong, you will still need an ali plate in order to move weight around on your cam bands.)

The kicking issue is different, but if you can get your static trim fixed then you won't be doing crazy leg extensions as pseudo compensation.

Thanks. How will this change once I start with negative fins?

---------- Post added January 24th, 2013 at 05:13 PM ----------

I thought about it, and I will most likely just bring my drysuit.

 

[Scott L]

The kicking issue is different, but if you can get your static trim fixed then you won't be doing crazy leg extensions as pseudo compensation.

Such a basic issue, but is often over-looked or ignored by even the best training agencies...

---------- Post added January 25th, 2013 at 01:17 AM ----------

Thanks. How will this change once I start with negative fins?

Introduce the negative fins first, then make further changes if necessary. Jet fins or H1's will be 4+lbs heavier as compared to your current fins.

 

[thehotcorner]

i also tend to be foot heavy and my tank is already about as high up on my back as it can be comfortably. i already tend to hit my head against my first stage when my head is tilted back all the way.

i'm using an apeks xtx50 reg with the swivel-turret. would there be any downside to rotating my tank 90 degrees so that my first stage is facing out to either the right or left side in order for me to move the tank up another inch or two?

could that slight possibly throw me off axis the other way, with the extra lb or two that the first stages weighs no longer being exactly centered.

 

[TSandM]

I often displace my valve a little to move the first stage away from the back of my head. It doesn't take anywhere near 90 degrees, though . . . and that would make hose routing interesting, too.

 

[thehotcorner]

since i have a swiveling first stage i don't expect it to really affect the hose routing, as it would just rotate 90 degrees, only diff being that it wold be in a slightly diff position behind my head.

 

[Michael Guerrero]

I think you're better off redistributing weight to get your trim squared away instead of continuing to move the tank up. If you use a BP/W you can just thread some lead weights on the shoulder straps w/ some weight keepers. That's how I do it in single tank. I'm leg heavy, so I have 2lbs on each shoulder threaded through the harness. This trims me out nicely. If you dive a BCD you can use trim pockets around the shoulder straps. XS Scuba makes some.

 

[WhiteSands]

Avoid pointing the fins upwards as horizontal fins provide the most drag and will help you stay in trim.

 

[TSandM]

Horizontal fins don't provide drag (thank goodness!). Fins that AREN'T horizontal can, though.

 

[Michael Guerrero]

So yes, avoid pointing the fins upwards, because horizontal fins DON'T create drag.

 

[WhiteSands]

I should have clarified to say horizontal fins provide the most drag vertically, which is what you want to keep your feet up.

Fins pointing up provide the least drag vertically, which means your feet sink fastest.