Mk 20 UL/S600/R190

[TomZ]

I ran into an unbelievable deal on this set-up. Obviously it will get a full overhaul. This is my first SP equipment. I've read some very detailed threads here. I'm looking for advice on the servicing and tuning. What should I tell my technician? What are the optimum settings for cracking pressure, etc? Are there any alternate replacement parts that would be considered an upgrade? I know hose length is a very subjective and contentious issue, so that isn't my question, however I plan on replacing the hoses: suggestions? I found this reg on Craigslist, the deal included an Oceanic console with two empty holes and an Oceanic pressure gauge, a loose Sherwood/Genesis tank valve (good condition), a Wenoka Squeeze attached to a LP hose, and a Mares MR 12/Nikos/Nikos reg set. The SP reg came with the original box and manual. I almost embarrassed (almost) to admit the price was $150 for the lot.
I'm rec diving at the present, but live in Ohio. I've plan on some cold water diving this year, and possibly moving into tech next year.

 

[NAM001]

I thnk you willbe better off insuring that you find a reputable lds to dothe anual on it. Just ask him to check preticularly for upgrades, (which will probably bie in the latest kit) and you will be fine. These regs are work horses and with minimal care will last forever. If the tech sets it up for factory specs you will be fine. As far as crack settings the factory sllignment works fine and since it is a s600 you can adjust that yourself. The 190 is ok also. If you are at all into the DIR route get hose lieignths to allow for teh 190 to hang from your neck and get if you want the longer primary hose. The shop will know what teh setup is. I think you will like it.

Good luck.

 

[Kunundrum]

Sounds like you got a good deal, the Mk20UL is a nice 1st stage, though is prone to dissimilar metal corrosion, and plain salt water corrosion, so ensure you rinse it properly after salt water diving. The S600 is also a great 2nd stage.

any used gear should be checked out by a service technician, though keep in mind since you are not the original owner you will need to pay for the service parts.

Keep an eye on the 1st stage, otherwise dive it.

 

[halocline]

If your MK20 has a brass-tipped piston, I'd recommend replacing it with the current 'composite' MK25 piston. It will hold IP much better. The other thing to look for is the recall on the yoke retainer, although honestly I'm not sure if the UL version was subject to that recall. The newer retainer should be installed free of charge by any SP dealer.

 

[Zung]

I don't know about the US, but over here, Scubapro no longer supplies the retainers for free; OK, no big deal, $10 a piece.

 

[halocline]

I think it was considered a safety recall, so dealers were really supposed to do it automatically. (I think, anyhow, not sure) Awap told me about a dealer that used to simply switch the plastic saddles; the recall came with a new plastic saddle that had either one more or one fewer slot (I forget which) for easy ID of a MK20 that had had the recall. Apparently this dive industry professional entrusted with saving our lives by not allowing us to work on our own gear didn't realize that simply switching a decorative plastic part would not actually solve the problem of the original retainer.

 

[Zung]

Yeah, I politely reminded the LDS about the recall, and he assured me that in the EU, it was only a internal note from SP asking the LDS's to quietly replace those things during service. But now they no longer get the parts for free. And they never replace the saddles. So now all my 6 MK20/25 are "safe" inside, but still "unlawful" outside.

 

[Kunundrum]

Also worth mentioning, if the tech has not encountered a MK20UL before they should be aware that they have significantly lower torque settings than it's brass twin. over torquing the main components have resulted in cracked regulator bodies, this was one of the main reasons Scubapro pulled this regulator from their stable.

 

[ams511]

If you are going into tech then you will go to double regulators with DIN connections. So you may be better off selling (or trading) the Mk20 UL for a normal MK20. I always wanted a MK20 UL and finally got one. I was disappointed. There is not a huge savings in weight with the ultralight. If you want to go tech I would sell the UL, the mares, and the SPG and buy 2 MK20s and a brass and glass SPG. Then you will be set until you need stage regs.