LED or not

[mfalco]

I just ordered the UK mini Q40 eLED Plus from scuba.com for $25. I had been all set for pay $45 or so for the Pelican StealthLight Recoil LED, when I learned about this new UK light, which was redesigned for 2006 and uses 2w LEDs vs. 1W LEDs in all others in it's class. Hard to beat!
QUOTE]


If I go with LED that is what I'm planning on getting.

 

[Rev. Blade]

Instead of spare batteries, I tend to bring spare lights. I keep a small strobe in one pocket. A backup flashlight in my other pocket, and a primary light in my hand. Depending on the dive, my "primary" may be something that other people consider a backup. For instance, I found that (for me) an Underwater Kinetics SL4 was fine for a week of daytime diving (heavy overcast) in Hawaii. I tried one day with my Princeton Tec XL (LED) light, but I was not satisfied. The LED throws a fair ammount of light, but not a very tight beam. It's a great light for small caves, tight wrecks, or night dives. Anyplace your eyes get accustomed to low light, but you don't need to see things far out. Since my demand from a backup light is that it go on, and throw enough light to read all my gauges, LEDs are fine.

On some occasions, my backup is a dinky Princeton Tec "Attitude". Not a lot of light, but when my brother's primary failed in Monterey, I gave him the Attitude, and we completed the dive. (OK. We were already headed back to shore, so you could also claim we were aborting the dive... but in any case, he could read his gauges and compass, and even see a few fish. ...and he no longer teases me about carrying a backup.)

When I want a lot of light, I bring my Light Canon, but it has flooded a couple times. UK has fixed it free (except the cost of shipping it to them), but I'm glad I had spare lights in my surface bag... not just spare batteries.

One day I may own a really nice light like the variable intensity HID from Metalsub, or any of the other nice ($600 or more) lights out there. My (current) personal favorite (for night, cave, or wrecks) is my Princeton Tec Shockwave LED. It has enough light to reach out for a decent distance, and the beams (3 LEDs) are wide enough that you can see a nice sized area.

For a backup, I like my SL4, my XL LED, or even the Attitude. ...but as the light I plan to leave in a pocket until I need it (but hope to never need it) I think the Princeton Tec XL is the best light I've tried.

 

[gcbryan]

I just got the Pelican Stealthlight Recoil LED today for a backup light. I chose it over the UK mini40 LED and other similar types because I wanted to get away from the twisting bezel method of turning the light on. That type seems more prone to leaking.

The Pelican uses a lever to turn the light on and off. The Pelican is also easier to attach to the shoulder strap of my harness as it has a hole for a lanyard at the end of the light. The UK is designed to be attached to your mask and although it does have another slot it is not on the end of the light so hanging it from a shoulder harness is more awkward.

Combining a LED and not having to twist the light head to turn on should mean only rarely having to mess with the o-ring since the batteries will not have to be changed very often due to the low wattage of the LED and due to the switch mechanism being a lever rather than twisting the bezel.

 

[jtivat]

I just ordered the UK mini Q40 eLED Plus from scuba.com for $25. I had been all set for pay $45 or so for the Pelican StealthLight Recoil LED, when I learned about this new UK light, which was redesigned for 2006 and uses 2w LEDs vs. 1W LEDs in all others in it's class. Hard to beat!

It also uses a 1 Watt Lambertian LED but unlike most other lights UK uses current regulation in this light. Which means there is a DC to DC current regulator in the light controlling the amount of current going to the LED and giving you a constant light output over the life of the batteries. This year’s new eLED version is being driven about twice as hard as the old model but still only uses a 1 Watt LED.

 

[CompuDude]

It also uses a 1 Watt Lambertian LED but unlike most other lights UK uses current regulation in this light. Which means there is a DC to DC current regulator in the light controlling the amount of current going to the LED and giving you a constant light output over the life of the batteries. This year’s new eLED version is being driven about twice as hard as the old model but still only uses a 1 Watt LED.

Interesting... I know I've seen literative referring to 2w bulbs, although their website currently mentions 1w as well. Well, once I get mine it'll be interesting to compare it to the Pelican Stealthlight Recoil, my other top choice. If the Pelican is brighter, I might pick it up as well... at some point. But at nearly half the price, it'll have to be NOTICEABLY brighter to make it worthwhile, IMO.

 

[kalao55]

I'm looking at backup lights now. (I'll be diving with a 10w HID as my primary) There are 2 models that I'm looking at. Both are available as a led light for more money. I know you get longer battery and bulb life with the LED. Is the light output better?

Obtained any Princeton Tec 40.... it seems bright plenty of with regard to sunny days material.... and it's modest as well as lightweight.

Nevertheless thinking of a good SL4 also.... and/or small UK gentle. 3 of people throw themselves the moment the kid tidies up his / her junior cert ow delves inside November.

 

[kaaralex]

Here is some beam comparison of different lights + explanation of lux and lumens: Beam Comparisons for LED Dive Lights - Dive Gear Express

 

[Griffo]

Wow. I don't think reviving a 6 yr old thread on lights is a good idea. LED's have improved out of sight in the last couple of years.