first shots with the T2i/EFS-60

[MXGratefulDiver]

Last night I finally got my new T2i/EFS-60/550D setup in the water for my initial shots. And it was also my first time processing RAW images using Lightroom. Would like to show a few shots and solicit some critique ... overall, I think I'm gonna be pretty happy with this setup as I learn how to use it well. For now, I'm going to stick with macro ... but hope to get into wide-angle in a couple months.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[PeterNBiddle]

Very nice.

 

[smellzlikefish]

That does it, I am getting a 60mm of my own to play with.

 

[coach_izzy]

Nice shots Bob! That means you're back in the water and shooting again. Safe diving friend!

 

[DiveMaven]

Isn't that 60mm the bomb? Nice shots.......looks like you're having fun.

 

[finecut]

What type of housing are you using and are you happy with it?

 

[Jun Lao]

Like 60mm rocks, a tokina 10-17 next?

 

[MXGratefulDiver]

I got my Tokina 10-17 and Zen dome two weeks ago. But I'm slammed with classes and work right now and not been able to take them diving yet! And the Expo's this week-end ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

---------- Post added April 17th, 2012 at 12:21 PM ----------

What type of housing are you using and are you happy with it?

Using the Sea & Sea RDX-550 ... and yes, I'm very happy with it.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)

 

[darook]

Nice shots Bob. The composition is really solid and the flounder face is awesome! Looking at the EXIF on your shots you are exposing to the left (under exposing) a bit which indicates you may want to open the aperture up a bit or crank up the exposure a bit in LR. That is the beauty of the application you can do that with little or no impact to IQ. I typically do custom WB or cloudy depending on if it is a strobe or ambient light shot. My Macro jump setting on the T2i are Manual with F8 and 1/125th and Av with a custom setting of 1/200th and wide open for really thin DOF. There is a custom setting in the T2i which allows you to set the shutter speed in Av when the flash is in use. That 1/200th really allows you to freeze the subject while getting the DOF you wish. You can learn tons (when you have the time) on Photography Tutorials, Photography Tips, Photography Lessons, Photography Equipment Reviews, Photography Wordpress Themes in regards to LR. I love that application, but not as much as I love my EF-S 60 and Tokina 10-17.

I do not claim to be an expert on all of this just really into it and have learned a lot this last year. Enough to teach me that I don't know squat!

In regards to how I pulled your EXIF information there is a plugin you can install in Chrome that allows you to right click on an image and pull it if it has not been removed. Very interesting to see what setting folks are using. So many recipes for the same delicious dishes!

 

[Magrone]

Looking at the EXIF on your shots you are exposing to the left (under exposing) a bit which indicates you may want to open the aperture up a bit or crank up the exposure a bit in LR.

​

I don't think it's an aperture or shutter speed issue. Even at F22, 1/200 on the 60mm, shots can still be properly exposed with correct lighting. I had this same set up; Canon t2i in the Sea&sea RDX. I used fiber optics which I assume Bob is using. From my experience, if you don't increase the flash compensation or exposure compensation on the camera, the STTL will underexpose your images by 1/2 to a full stop. A good way to check this underwater during the dive is to look at the camera's histogram, if the bell curve is to the left, you are losing details in the shadows, if the bell curve is too far to the right you are blowing out the highlights. As a general rule, I like to push over exposing (bell curve to the right) because; 1. bright images have more impact and 2. Using the "recovery" tool in Adobe Lightroom to bring back slightly blown highlights (with very little IQ degradation) is much easier than trying to bring back details in shadows without increasing noise. The underexposing will be much more obvious (and harder to correct) when you get into wide angle. I suggest +1 flash comp for macro and at least+2 flash comp for wide angle. You may need to adjust the exposure comp as well for wide shots. I am still not convinced fiber optics is the way to go for wide angle yet.