RC Mode, Olympus TG-810 and UFL-2

[hann300]

I am looking for a good strobe for my Olympus TG810 and have come across the Olympus UFL-2 strobe that communicates through Olympus’s “proprietary RC Mode”. Does anyone know how well this works? Does it work like TTL or? Is it like a fully automatic flash system? I can not seem to find any really information on the net or local dive shop.

 

[nudibranco]

if the TG810 works with the Olympus RC flash protocol than the UFL2 is a nice strobo. Here is a review:
Olympus UFL-2 Strobe Review | Wex Photographic
I have one and would buy another one but is a little less powerful and bigger than others like INONs or Sea&Sea.
However. the UFL2 does control perfectly the TTL with the EPL1 camera I own while the Inon or Sea&Sea seem to struggle sometimes
I hear Olympus will announce some new UW strobo this year (maybe!!).

 

[JackConnick]

The TG-810 doesn't have RC mode. The UFL-2 would be overkill and worth a lot more than the camera. I would suggest a Sea & Sea YS-01 which would have TTL auto operation, a focusing light and is small and light. We have it in a single modular tray package that would work well for you. If you don't need TTL the YS-02 is identical.

Jack

 

[hann300]

Just scanned the Olympus Owners manuals for the TG810, PT051 housing and UFL-2 strobe. Also, verified settings on the TG810 that I own. The TG810 does have a RC mode function. Does anyone know how well they function together?

 

[Foxfish]

I spoke with Olympus Australia as I was investigating the same thing. The TG-810 does have remote control but the UFL-2 light setting cannot be adjusted using the wireless capability of the TG-810 camera. The TG-810 will communicate with the Olympus FL-36 flash which is not suitable for underwater. The flash costs around AUD $400 and the underwater casing $1200 (which is expensive but may be incorrect). I'd avoid this given the possibility of leakage.

 

[terson]

Jack Drafahl has had a LOT to say about the Olympus RC system and is a fan of its abilities.
I've had a dew conversations with him about the results and it would be well worthwhile having a chat to him. . .
Tip of the Month
Bruce

---------- Post added ----------

The TG-810 will communicate with the Olympus FL-36 flash which is not suitable for underwater. The flash costs around AUD $400 and the underwater casing $1200 (which is expensive but may be incorrect). I'd avoid this given the possibility of leakage.

If you read the report under the link that 'nudibranco' has supplied from Wex Photographic, you will find reference to, and pictures of, the FL-36 housed and being used successfully underwater! The UFL-2 is the FL-36 in a S&S housing. . .
Bruce

 

[Foxfish]

Jack Drafahl has had a LOT to say about the Olympus RC system and is a fan of its abilities.
I've had a dew conversations with him about the results and it would be well worthwhile having a chat to him. . .
Tip of the Month
Bruce

---------- Post added ----------

If you read the report under the link that 'nudibranco' has supplied from Wex Photographic, you will find reference to, and pictures of, the FL-36 housed and being used successfully underwater! The UFL-2 is the FL-36 in a S&S housing. . .
Bruce

I had a look at the links and saw no mention of TG-810's and FL-36, only EPL's and UFL-2's.

Here is a picture of the FL-36 flash.

Olympus FL 36R - Hot-shoe clip-on flash - 36M

Here is the picture of the housing:

Olympus Underwater Flash Housing for FL-36 (PFL-E01)

---------- Post added ----------

The other thing I find disconcerting is that the Olympus TG-810 is now on the way out. I bought mine a year ago. Since then it got superseded by the TG-820 and now the TG-1. I've been told that the TG-820 doesn't fit into the TG-810 housing (ie. the Olympus PT-051). With this kind of change happening, it seems at least possible that the Olympus flashes and housings will also become quickly dated. With equipment becoming dated so quickly, getting parts is likely to be more difficult. I've found that already with the TG-810.

While remote connectivity may provide better light control, the slave or manually controlled strobe seems less likely to be affected by this kind of rapid change.

 

[terson]

I had a look at the links and saw no mention of TG-810's and FL-36, only EPL's and UFL-2's.

I didn't say that Jack had anything to say about the TG-810, I said that he had a lot to say about the RC system and was a fan of it and the UFL-2 strobe.
My reference to the FL-36 was in the wex photography link if you re-read my posting.
The TG-810 is basically an underwater toy and not meant for serious/semi serious underwater photography. . .the UFL-2 on the other hand IS a serious underwater flash unit.
Bruce

 

[Foxfish]

If you read the report under the link that 'nudibranco' has supplied from Wex Photographic, you will find reference to, and pictures of, the FL-36 housed and being used successfully underwater! The UFL-2 is the FL-36 in a S&S housing. . .
Bruce

The FL-36 is not the UFL-2. That is why they have different names, look different and the TG-810 can talk to the FL-36 and not the UFL-2. The article contained no pictures of the FL-36 in it's housing. The article is primarily about the UFL-2.

I was recently considering upgrading to the EPL-3. It looked okay on paper. The I went and held the camera. If felt like a toy with it's plastic zoom lens. Then I remembered how I'd flooded the TG-810 while on holidays overseas in its underwater housing on three separate occasions at a depth of around 25 m. It worked fine after each flooding. That is something that the EPL-3 will never do!

Why did the camera flood? I'd noticed for some time that the main housing seal went dry very quickly after being lubricated. I decided that either the non Olympus lubricant wasn't doing it's job or the seal had degraded after only a years use. I tried hard to find a seal and get the Olympus lubricant from our major suppliers prior to going away. I ordered a seal they said would arrive in two weeks. Two weeks later I was told when I rang that they'd forgotten to write the order in the book. When I came back from holidays I was told delivery for the new seal would be about 4 weeks. That was from Olympus Australia. This was for one of the most popular dive camera's I've seen being used in this country.

I've grown rather cynical of this underwater camera circus. Buying expensive gear sounds like a good way to burn thousands of dollars. I like underwater photography, but I'm not that desperate. Until the suppliers including Olympus can get their act together I'm happy sticking with my 'toy'. Biggest problem will be that in a year's time I probably won't be able to get any replacement parts.

I know, these last comments were also irrelevant to the OP.

 

[PHIL RUDIN]

I have PDF article I did several years ago which includes UFL-2 information I can E-mail you, it will not upload here. Keep in mind that some of the things that make the strobe cool like power zoom will only work when the strobe is wired to the housing via the Olympus cable and will NOT work via fiber optic cables. The guide number of 32 is based on the power zoom being at the narrow beam end. As you zoom out to the wide end of the range the GN drops for W/A shots. The zoom can be done in manual if you are using fiber optic cables but will work in auto as you zoom a lens in and out. Not sure how this works with non-interchangable lens cameras.

Also the strobe which is larger than the Inon S-2000 and Z-240 as well as the Sea & Sea YS-01 and YS-02 and for its size only holds TWO battries. The UFL-2 while it may not look the same has the guts of the FL-36 land strobe in a Sea & Sea U/W housing. It is also VERY BUOYANT (see attached image of a DSLR housing with camera in fresh water) which with the small compact camera would cause problems requiring weights.

For a compact camera using fiber optic cable(s) the Inon S-2000 or Sea & Sea YS-01&2 would be much better choices to me.

Phil Rudin