What size tank (Steel) would you purchase for nitrox fills?

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Ulfhedinn

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Im looking to get a steel for my nitrox fills. I breath pretty heavy and I want to avoid having to bring a million tanks to the dive site. I'm 5"10 210lbs and not a fatty if you know what I mean. The 130 calls to me but am I jumping the gun?
 
Your equipment needs to be optimized according to your personal circumstances. This includes your air consumption, the typical dive sites, your average depth on the dives, dive time, buddies, water temperature, experience, preference and many other soft factors like your wallet. :wink:

You're asking a very open question, just like "which car is the best". You can't expect a qualified answer for such an open question.
 
130 is a high pressure right? If that is what you are looking at make sure your LDS can fill them all the way full. Also, are you willing to switch to DIN valve which is most common on hp, or will you get a 2in1 to use yoke?

Have you ever tried a tank this size? The best thing I can recommend is rent, borrow, and beg tanks from all stores and buddies around you. Get a feel for what is comfortable in the water, and what is optimum for you. For myself, I settled on a 119hp, even though a 120 is lighter and has more air, all because the 119 it is a shorter tank. And those 4 inches less was worth it when I am only 5'1.

So don't be in any rush to buy. Shop around, find out what works. And remember, your air consumption will go down with experience!
 
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Quick question - I assume you've probably dove an 80 cf aluminum tank. About how long a dive time to you get on one, and in what conditions? For example, a tropical coral reef dive to around 50 or 70 feet part of the time?

What kind of bottom time are you looking to get on a single dive? And under what conditions?

Does 5'10", 210# & not a fatty mean you work out & are muscular enough that the weight isn't concerning you?

Richard.
 
If you're worried about air consumption, you might compromise some on size/weight and also work on your SAC (surface air consumption) rate. My assumption, since you said you're a gas hog, is that you're simply kicking too much and too fast. Remember you're surrounded by thousands of tons of water and moving 3x harder isn't going to move you 3x faster... if you catch my meaning?

Check out the 109s and 119s by Worthington... they hold a LOT of gas, have betting trim characteristics than HP130s, and aren't so blasted heavy. Trust me, I've been carting around twin 130s for five years and truly wish I'd gone lighter.
 
130 is a high pressure right? If that is what you are looking at make sure your LDS can fill them all the way full. Also, are you willing to switch to DIN valve which is most common on hp, or will you get a 2in1 to use yoke?

As much as I agree with you in the rest of your post, the above quote is totally not true. First, Yoke is totally OK with 3442psi HP tank. In fact, most of the steel tank sold today has pro-valve, so both Yoke and DIN regulator can be used. As for getting a good fill to 3442psi, it shouldn't be a problem in CA. I am using HP100 with Yoke regulator for my single tank set. No problem getting good fill or using Yoke regulator.

X8-130 is about the same height as AL80 but with 8" diameter. It is a very bulky and heavy tank. Just make sure it is what you want.
 
What size tank (Steel) would you purchase for nitrox fills?

A: The size that provided sufficient gas for the dives I intended to complete.

To answer this you need to calculate your air consumption (RMV/SAC) and then apply that to calculate your air requirements for a given depth and duration dive (accounting also for reserves and contingencies).

This will give you a required volume of gas. Then simply buy a cylinder that provides that volume. :D

Resources you need: Scuba Diving Tips - Gas Management Workshop
 
your consumption rate will drop as you get more dives, and with a reasonable SAC rate a HP100 in 7" or HP119 in 8" is a good compromize size, smaller than an AL80 ... I have the 100 and like it
 

Sorry I just quickly looked at Scuba Cylinder Specification Chart from Huron Scuba, Ann Arbor Michigan , yet Worthington wasn't even on there. Goes to show that different brands of tanks have different characteristics.



As much as I agree with you in the rest of your post, the above quote is totally not true. First, Yoke is totally OK with 3442psi HP tank. In fact, most of the steel tank sold today has pro-valve, so both Yoke and DIN regulator can be used. As for getting a good fill to 3442psi, it shouldn't be a problem in CA. I am using HP100 with Yoke regulator for my single tank set. No problem getting good fill or using Yoke regulator.

And see I disagree. I really think there is a lot of pressure to use DIN for HP tanks. Maybe that has something to do with the divers in my area? Who knows, but I never said you had to make a switch. I also run yoke on my hp and don't have a problem with it. Just wanted to throw out there that there are differing opinions on it
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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