converting to a S95

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diverrick

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Location
nor cal, Vacaville
# of dives
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I have been using a fuji F810 for my divie pics but it is dieing and I can't get it repaired, even by Fuji themselves.
so I am looking for a replacement camera and case that will be compatable with the rest of my gear.
I am leaning towards the S95 canon, but I have a few questions I need to get answered.

I have used a D2000 remote strobe that is optically slaves from the cameras flash, but I was told the camera/strobe combo I had was "stupid", by that I mean I always had to run the strobe in manual. I want a camera that can use the TTL functionality on my strobe. The last thing I want is to continue manually adjusting the stobe.
Will the canon s95 do that? I see it has almost the same outside stobe blocking white plastic panel that the optic cable mounts on to.

Second issue is the Ikelite case has a threaded lens adapter. I have a wide angle and macro lens that are bayonet type. Inon DVL-:05 ADx0.51 wide angle, and UCL-165AD Macro lens(hard to read the numbers)
If I get the thread to bayonet adaptor for the ikelite case, will the lenses still work properly?
I was told one of them would not work with the camera, don't recall which one it was right now.

Any ideas on these issues, or recommendations on what to get to replace my beloved Fuji?
 
I have been using a fuji F810 for my divie pics but it is dieing and I can't get it repaired, even by Fuji themselves.
so I am looking for a replacement camera and case that will be compatable with the rest of my gear.
I am leaning towards the S95 canon, but I have a few questions I need to get answered.

I have used a D2000 remote strobe that is optically slaves from the cameras flash, but I was told the camera/strobe combo I had was "stupid", by that I mean I always had to run the strobe in manual. I want a camera that can use the TTL functionality on my strobe. The last thing I want is to continue manually adjusting the stobe.
Will the canon s95 do that? I see it has almost the same outside stobe blocking white plastic panel that the optic cable mounts on to.


Whoever told you that is in fact stupid or seriously misinformed. It is simply not true and probably is not true with the Fuji either. The D2000 does NOT have TTL, it has sTTL (simulated TTL), EA (External Auto) and Manual. All three modes work wonderfully with the S series cameras as does the Inon D2000. If you do a little research you should pull up many threads on the S90/S95 and Inon strobe settings by me and several others.

The sTTL works superbly with the D2000 and S95 combination in Program, Auto, Av and Tv modes. So does the EA mode, especially in Av and Manual, and of course Manual does as well. The strobe and camera have to be configured for the way you shoot, if I must I will spell it out again, for the zillionth time, sorry:).

if you want true eTTL then you need the Z240 and perhaps a G12 or Oly XZ1 etc. i frankly would prefer the S95 with FIX or Recsea housings over either of those by a long shot.

N
 
My D2000 has the following settings. OFF, STTL, Low, auto, M, Full. on the Left side control knob.

The right side knob has TTL , a band of manual settings above and a band below TTL to darken settings.
I have been told to use it in manual mode with the F810 set up.
 
Plus , I still need to know about the lenses, and this combo. I am certainly willing to learn from anyone on this subject. So just to make sure I am understanding correctly, your saying that all this time I could have used STTL, or TTL?? with the F810? That certainly would piss me off as I can't tell you how many shots were missed by having to dink with the strobe's manual settings.. and I paid big money for those classes!!!
 
My D2000 has the following settings. OFF, STTL, Low, auto, M, Full. on the Left side control knob.

The right side knob has TTL , a band of manual settings above and a band below TTL to darken settings.
I have been told to use it in manual mode with the F810 set up.

Ther "auto" mode is the EA, External Auto mode in which the D2000 uses it's on board exposure system and sensor to calculate exposure whereas the sTTL mode essentially bootstraps the cameras auto strobe setting.

Yes, you could have used the D2000 in sTTL with the Fuji, should have read the instruction book, it really is not that hard to figure out.

If in the "classes" they told you that the D2000 would not work in sTTL with the Fuji, you wasted your money as is the case with most such classes. Did you ever consider reading the manual for yourself rather than paying money for a class taught by a person who obviously knows very little about the equipment.

N
 
Sorry that I am not as educated as you are. I am a simple O/C diver, with over 300 dives to date, search and rescue, advanced, solo diver, sorry i am so badly trained.

I read the manual and found it to be beyond my ablilties in certain aspects. Added to that the fact I was using it for underwater use, not above water , the manual becomes useless pretty quickly, as it was never made for underwater consumption. I needed some help, as I would imagine most new buyers would, hence the reason I signed up for a class. Not everyone is an expert the moment they buy a camera, in fact I doubt that most are not, it takes time and experience to learn a certain camera and systems. That goes double for an underwater cameras, where alot of the topside stuff goes away. Sorry if I came off as an ignoramus. It was not my intent, only to find a new camera that works to replace what I already have. Maybe I should just stop taking photos at all, as it seems I am too stooopid to figggure it all out with out some help!!!.. and leave the gene pool to you..
I would also like to know why you have such hostile repsonses? Have I done something to you in the past that would provoke such a heated response? I don't understand why you seem so hostile. I asked a simple question that I hoped would solicite a simple answer. At this point I would have to add..NEVER MIND!!!!>> sheesh!!!
 
Diverrick:

Regarding the lenses, while you can use an adaptor, it is less than ideal with the wide angle lens. The distance between the camera and the lens is critical and increasing this distance as little as 5mm can affect the camera's ability to focus. The closeup lens shouldn't have a problem.

It should be noted that the UFL-165AD fisheye lens that you have is not designed to be used with the S95 but it will work if you zoom in to about the 35mm range. It is also designed for the original AD mounts and will work with the 28AD mounts but not with the newer 28LD mounts which are a larger diameter. For a full list of compatibilities ref: INON Attachment Lnes [Lineup]. That same website will offer more indepth information on the Inon strobes also.
 
Sorry that I am not as educated as you are. I am a simple O/C diver, with over 300 dives to date, search and rescue, advanced, solo diver, sorry i am so badly trained.

I am sorry that you have taken my admonition to read the manual wrong, nonetheless, your or my diving skills have nothing to do with my statement, read your manual and experiment on your own rather than blindly taking anyone's word, mine, or anyone for that matter.

Yes, the Fuji would have and will work in sTTL as will the S95.

If this gets your panties in a wad, so be it.

Oh, and to save you a lot of trouble, the UCL165AD macro will work with the Ikelite housing, the UFL165AD fisheye lens will not. You will need a 67mm to AD adapter available from 10Bar.

1. Read the manuals, they are not beyond your ability and they do answer the questions you have asked. The manual is the one, actually two, for the D2000, that is the one I am referring to. They come with the strobe.
2. As I stated, there are many threads already on this, do a search.
3. Good luck.

N
 
After looking at the pics of those lenses, it is cler I have the UW 105AD thanks for the info.
 
The Inon 105AD wide angle lens will not likely work well with the Ikelite housing, you would have to zoom to about 40mm (or more) to eliminate vignetting which would result in an increase in the effective focal length of the lens. Probably not a good combination. The 165AD fisheye would require zooming also of the camera lens to eliminate vignetting but would provide a useful increase in FOV though nothing like what it is capable of on a more optimal housing.

N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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