RecSea S95 or FIX S95?
- Thread starter TheDolphin
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I'm guessing you're not using the strobe on every shot, and do a lot of natural light work? And what's your LCD timeout set to? And how many shots do you take per dive? Or are your dives just shorter than mine, usually?
Diving the cold, dark SoCal waters, I shoot 100% of my shots with an external strobe (full manual mode, internal flash set to minimum output). I find I get roughly 1.8 dives out of a fully-charged Canon OEM battery. (I think my Wasabi batteries are about the same.) Obviously this depends on dive duration, too. Figure one hour dives, on average. And I'm often shooting 100 photos per dive.
This means that, the majority of the time, my camera dies in the last few minutes of the second dive, IF I don't change the battery. As a result, I change (usually... and pay the price when I don't!) batteries after every dive. Very annoying, but I can live with it, considering it's among the S90's very few flaws.
By changing the batteries on every dive, I can be sure my camera lasts the whole dive, every time, even on my nice long (occasional) 90-minute dives.
I consider a typical dive for me about 45 minutes, I am often deep as well. I run my internal strobe on Manual and low power and I shoot about 80% with flash, give or take.
I was able to make three trips this year before breaking my leg, on all of them I got at least two solid dives and usually about 2.8 dives. I take about 60 to 80 shots per dive. So, 2.8 times 60 is, what, 160 shots? Well within the advertised specs for the camera, I have gotten as many as 200 shots, 2.8 times 80 is 224 so again within the advertised battery life.
A curious thing, beats me, my #2 camera runs longer than my number 1 camera, about 20 shots.
I consider the S90 to have sufficient battery life for two dives, however, it is at the low side of what I would want. Since the S95 shows less shots per charge, not sure about that, glad I have the S90, I like it better than the S95.
Good insurance given your long, shallow, flash intensive work. I usually change out between dives two and three if I am expecting to need the camera to the very end of dive three.
As to my settings, I have the screen set to 2 minutes I think, my IS set to shoot only, all of the safety stuff and red eye and focus assist light are set to OFF and I have the camera Auto Off turned OFF. Once the LCD screen goes dark I need only shake the camera or touch a button to wake it up quickly, I also have the lens retract OFF. I also set my screen brightness down below default as it is plenty bright underwater at the reduced level. I never use the zoom, maybe once in a blue moon, so that saves battery also. I also often use manual focus and just zone focus for my expected shot, that saves battery power also.
I have not been cleared to dive yet, I have a non-union in the femur bone, I cannot carry the weight of a tank without pain, probably additional surgery required before I can dive or run again though last night I swam 2.5 miles. So, I may just sell the stuff so it does not go to waste and start over when I get all healed up, maybe, maybe not.
James
My condolences... Scott mentioned your leg, and I meant to drop you a line, but I haven't been on dive boards for quite a bit, dealing with various things on the home front. (Haven't been diving, either, until recently... went over 4 months!) Hope you get back to the water soon! Let me know if you decide to sell stuff off, perhaps I'll add to my collection. 
Although since I bought my friend's UFL-165AD I've been pretty well set.
Seems like our respective experiences make sense, give our differing usage patterns. I'm getting a little less than 200 shots on a battery, but since I have a higher chance of getting close to that limit in two dives than you, and use more power during the dive than you, it's not surprising.
I zoom many times in a dive, generally... not usually with the "bare" camera, but my stacked macro lenses usually need about a 50% (or more, if I'm shooting something really small) zoom, and the fisheye needs a couple of bumps, too. Since I often switch lenses around a lot in a single dive, I zoom anywhere from never to LOTS in a given dive. I'll look into those other settings, though... the lens extension one sounds good. Perhaps I'll pick up a spare S90 now that they can be had (I think) a little more reasonably, and dedicate it's settings to UW settings. Else the odd power settings, lack of focus assist, etc., would be really annoying to change out, since I use my S90 on land a lot as well.
Although since I bought my friend's UFL-165AD I've been pretty well set.Seems like our respective experiences make sense, give our differing usage patterns. I'm getting a little less than 200 shots on a battery, but since I have a higher chance of getting close to that limit in two dives than you, and use more power during the dive than you, it's not surprising.
I zoom many times in a dive, generally... not usually with the "bare" camera, but my stacked macro lenses usually need about a 50% (or more, if I'm shooting something really small) zoom, and the fisheye needs a couple of bumps, too. Since I often switch lenses around a lot in a single dive, I zoom anywhere from never to LOTS in a given dive. I'll look into those other settings, though... the lens extension one sounds good. Perhaps I'll pick up a spare S90 now that they can be had (I think) a little more reasonably, and dedicate it's settings to UW settings. Else the odd power settings, lack of focus assist, etc., would be really annoying to change out, since I use my S90 on land a lot as well.
I guess being an old film guy who was limited to a maximum of 36 shots per dive, the digital cameras make me feel like I have an endless roll of film. In order to get 100 shots in a 60 minute dive you would be popping photos at a rate of 1.6 per minute!!!!! I think I tend to be selective and try to frame my shots rather than shoot a bunch and cull later, cannot help it, stingy with the film you know .
Even at that, I am taking 1.3 photos per minute to get 60 shots in a 45 minute dive. To me that is smoking, the strobes per their instructions require a cooling period, what, like, every 20 shots fired consecutively and at these rates I think we qualify.
How many people really do three 60 minute dives on the same day, back to back and really would manage to take a photo at a rate of 1.6 shots per minute for all three dives? Not many I would think, this is why I think the battery life thing is a bit over done. Shooting all strobe photos at that rate would pull a camera battery down not allowing it to recover any between shots, that could affect battery life and endurance. Could explain why some get different numbers of shots from the same battery and camera?
Even trying to be selective, half the shots I take are pure junk, does this mean I need to take more photos or be yet more selective still. I think it is the later, I need to use my eye, move the camera to get the shot, frame it carefully to take advantage of the light and the life and then take the shot. Of course, there are always those shots one takes on the fly and they turn out to be the best,. Sometimes luck prevails over lack of skill or talent, lol.
James
.Even at that, I am taking 1.3 photos per minute to get 60 shots in a 45 minute dive. To me that is smoking, the strobes per their instructions require a cooling period, what, like, every 20 shots fired consecutively and at these rates I think we qualify.
How many people really do three 60 minute dives on the same day, back to back and really would manage to take a photo at a rate of 1.6 shots per minute for all three dives? Not many I would think, this is why I think the battery life thing is a bit over done. Shooting all strobe photos at that rate would pull a camera battery down not allowing it to recover any between shots, that could affect battery life and endurance. Could explain why some get different numbers of shots from the same battery and camera?
Even trying to be selective, half the shots I take are pure junk, does this mean I need to take more photos or be yet more selective still. I think it is the later, I need to use my eye, move the camera to get the shot, frame it carefully to take advantage of the light and the life and then take the shot. Of course, there are always those shots one takes on the fly and they turn out to be the best,
. Sometimes luck prevails over lack of skill or talent, lol.James
I generally take at least 3-4 shots of each subject, in fairly rapid procession. Sometimes more, if it's especially neat (or fast-moving!). Digital shots are free, there's no need to conserve space on an 8gb chip unless I've been lazy about clearing it off. Kudos to the old school instincts in you, but I never got into photography for more than snapshots until digital came around, so I don't have that reservation built into my trigger finger.
SoCal tends to be a pretty target-rich environment, particularly Macro, which I love. I don't always hit 100 shots per dive, but it's not uncommon, either. "Cooling off" in 50 degree water is a laugh, though, not an issue in the slightest... nor was it in 83 degree waters in Bali.
Currrent photography teaching says "shoot, examine, adjust, shoot". Pretty easy to shoot several shots in a few seconds that way, particularly if a subject is moving, which they usually are, unless you're shooting wrecks. Fire away and hope you get the shot you love!
But yes, it's often the hurried snaps on the fly that turn out to be the jaw droppers... ironic, isn't it?
SoCal tends to be a pretty target-rich environment, particularly Macro, which I love. I don't always hit 100 shots per dive, but it's not uncommon, either. "Cooling off" in 50 degree water is a laugh, though, not an issue in the slightest... nor was it in 83 degree waters in Bali.
Currrent photography teaching says "shoot, examine, adjust, shoot". Pretty easy to shoot several shots in a few seconds that way, particularly if a subject is moving, which they usually are, unless you're shooting wrecks. Fire away and hope you get the shot you love!
But yes, it's often the hurried snaps on the fly that turn out to be the jaw droppers... ironic, isn't it?
hcvanzyl
Registered
Nemrod,
You said if you would start afresh, you would prefer the Fisheye UWL-04 lens.
1. I assume you prefer the Fisheye UWL-04 lens above the Inon UFL 165. Would you also prefer the Fisheye UWL-04 above the Inon UWL H100 LD?
2. Is the reason why you dislike the Inon WAL100 because of it's impractical weight and expensive prize? (The same is obviously true of the Inon H100 LD)
3. Is the image quality of the Fisheye UWL-04 still excellent and the prize difference to the Inon UWL H100 LD not worthwhile?
4. Do you think the fact that the Fix S56 casts a shadow when taking closer images with the internal flash is a significant factor?
Thank you
Hermie
You said if you would start afresh, you would prefer the Fisheye UWL-04 lens.
1. I assume you prefer the Fisheye UWL-04 lens above the Inon UFL 165. Would you also prefer the Fisheye UWL-04 above the Inon UWL H100 LD?
2. Is the reason why you dislike the Inon WAL100 because of it's impractical weight and expensive prize? (The same is obviously true of the Inon H100 LD)
3. Is the image quality of the Fisheye UWL-04 still excellent and the prize difference to the Inon UWL H100 LD not worthwhile?
4. Do you think the fact that the Fix S56 casts a shadow when taking closer images with the internal flash is a significant factor?
Thank you
Hermie
Hello
Maybe but the lens I use the most is the UFL165AD because it is small, sharp right to the dome, focuses well, cost effective, bayonet mount.
Probably because the LD lens is about twice the price, weight and much larger for a marginal gain. As well, what mount you plan to use, I do not know of a LD mount for these housings?
I never said I disliked it, it is a fine lens, all glass and metal but it too is heavy, large, expensive, thread on mount also.
I think the IQ for the UWL-o4 is very good, I imagine it would hold it's own considering the price and other factors. It is a thread on however, bummer that is.
hcvanzyl
Registered
Nemrod,
You said somewhere you like a dry lens setup, like the Fix G12. Is the image quality significantly better with the "dry" Fix G12 system than with the Fix S95 with a liar of water between the housing and the accessory lens?
You said somewhere you like a dry lens setup, like the Fix G12. Is the image quality significantly better with the "dry" Fix G12 system than with the Fix S95 with a liar of water between the housing and the accessory lens?
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