Canon S90 w/ lenses Pool Practice

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Zoom for the S90 to 35mm can be set in custom settings or controlled from them front ring. Once set to 35mm (or whatever required for the wet lens and housing) it is left alone. I am not talking about zooming in and out, I mean to zoom to the required setting to eliminate vignetting and leave it alone.

Agreed. It's pretty easy to bump the lever once or twice to hit the right number. (At least, it is with the Fix and Canon housings... since the Ike housing lacks a spring-loaded center, that might be a smidge tougher.) Then, just hit the lever until you're at full wide to go back to regular shooting. Not difficult at all... and if it was, the Custom setting can save the zoom level as well.

For me, the biggest annoyance I've found so far is that the camera doesn't seem to like to stay in Macro mode. Every time it auto-powers down or I change mode, the Macro setting is lost and has to be reset. My old camera (S80) would keep the Macro setting, at least through an auto-power down.
 
Why ask why, they did not and are not going to. They have the box approach, if they can get the camera into their little box, medium box or big box then great and as to precise engineering, that does not seem to be their forte'. N
 
Hi guys, a little off topic but can someone help me by doing a quick measurement of the diameter of the UFL-165AF on the AD mount side? I'm considering to get a fisheye for my G7+DC-11 and am in the midst of trying to figure out how much it would vignett and how much zooming is required based on the mount size+distance from lens.

So far it seems like a 67mm ring barely skims the edge of the image at the g7's widest.

Thanks in advance!
 
Nem,

Your f-stop should have zero effect on FOV or zoom position needed to eliminate vignetting.......(see my P.S. below too.)


On page 27 of the Inon lens document http://www.inon.jp/_userdata/DL_PDF/inonlens2009_en.pdf, there is a note:

"[10] When using UFL-165AD at wide end with open aperture, light amount at circumference part may be slightly insufficient. This symptom can be eased by using smaller aperture."

That note is applied only to the Fuji 810/710, but maybe camera lens to wet lens spacing is a bit higher than optimal for that setup, like the S90 almost is (or maybe "is", depending on the mount/housing).
 
On page 27 of the Inon lens document http://www.inon.jp/_userdata/DL_PDF/inonlens2009_en.pdf, there is a note:

"[10] When using UFL-165AD at wide end with open aperture, light amount at circumference part may be slightly insufficient. This symptom can be eased by using smaller aperture."

That note is applied only to the Fuji 810/710, but maybe camera lens to wet lens spacing is a bit higher than optimal for that setup, like the S90 almost is (or maybe "is", depending on the mount/housing).

I find this to be true with my A570 (Canon housing and Inon adapter) and my S90 with this lens (FIX housing, FIX 67mm kit, DIY AD/67mm adapter or 10Bar). The effect is reduced or gone at or above f4.0.

N
 
Hi guys, a little off topic but can someone help me by doing a quick measurement of the diameter of the UFL-165AF on the AD mount side? I'm considering to get a fisheye for my G7+DC-11 and am in the midst of trying to figure out how much it would vignett and how much zooming is required based on the mount size+distance from lens.

So far it seems like a 67mm ring barely skims the edge of the image at the g7's widest.

Thanks in advance!

A 67mm lens like the Ikelite UWL-20 or Inon UWL100-67mm will work, the AD series compact lenses have a rear element about the size of a quarter and will not work with the G7 is my bet. I will get you an exact diameter if you like?

N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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