Bleeding Tanks Dry question

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L_A_S

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Scuba Instructor
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I'm in the process of bleeding dry two steel 100 tanks. The one that started out full is building up a lot of condensation while the other one (started at 1500 psi) has none. The valves are both opened only very little. Is the condensation a problem? Any fixes, or anything I need to do before shipping them to Hawaii?

Thanks!
 
I'm in the process of bleeding dry two steel 100 tanks. The one that started out full is building up a lot of condensation while the other one (started at 1500 psi) has none. The valves are both opened only very little. Is the condensation a problem? Any fixes, or anything I need to do before shipping them to Hawaii?

Thanks!

I assume you mean on the outside of the tank.

Not surprising, as the full tank will be cooled a lot more than the 1500 psi one.

Well, tanks are sort of designed to handle water on the outside.. however, if you want to prevent that from also happening on the inside, I would suggest you stop bleeding them with a small amount of pressure still inside, then wait a day and then complete the process. That way the tanks will be room temperature and no could form on the inside (which is unlikely anyway).

But, if you bleed the tank empty, and it gets cold, and you leave the valve open, as the tank warms, the air inside will expand, so no issue. It is only if you remove the valve that you might see some condensation inside.
 
You do know if you ship them to Hawaii you need to remove the valve? At least that is what I have always been told.
 
Yea I intend to remove the valves, which I've never done before, that's why I wanted to cover every precaution. Just thought it was weird that one had a lot of condensation on the outside, but the explanation makes sense. Thanks!
 
I wouldn't worry to much about it, though your valve might be difficult to get off depending on how much it's torqued, might be able to use the heel of your hand on the knob, or might need to get a wrench.
 

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