Choosing Settings For G10??

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

GLENFWB

Contributor
Messages
2,314
Reaction score
57
Location
Fort Walton Beach, FL
# of dives
200 - 499
For some of you experienced photogs out there I need some help. I got my Ikelite case today for my G10...am I the first one on Scubaboard to get the Ikelite G10 housing???:D

I have the DS51 and DS50 strobe. I also have the TTL dual sync cable. So, with that being said, what are you experienced folks using for settings on your G10

Ikelite suggests the following settings:
  • Set ISO to 80
  • Set camera mode dial to AV. Shutter speed automatically goes to 1/60
  • Set Flash to On
  • General photography set aperature to f3.5
  • For Macro set aperature to f8.0
  • Set White Balance to Auto
  • Set image size to "L" and compression to "S" superfine
  • Set metering to "Center Weighted Avg"
  • In the camera menu set the "ND" Filter to "Cancel"
Anyone use these settings?

I have heard many talk about using the manual mode...why not use the Auto features of the camera and use the TTL abilities with your strobes. For the average person would this provide good overall results?

Do all of these settings make a difference if you are shooting in RAW?

If I put the camera in RAW, and let the TTL function set the strobes intensity...I can just fix any problems later, problems like White Balance, etc.

If my thinking is flawed someone please give me some advice before I hit the water the first time with the G10. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
When shooting RAW (and post-processing on a computer) theres still a few things you cant fix easilly, such as Shades, Backscatter, Noise and Focus. The focus issue being my main hassle on some of my pics and thats where shutter speed and apperture can have huge impacts both for good and bad. Currect fiddeling with apperture and shutter speeds can make awsome effects, or just make the picture crappy if you set them wrong.
The upside with manual mode is that you can get more "creative" the downside is that you can mess up pictures a lot more.
 
You probably want to increase the shutter speed for macro... Faster shutter speed will give you blacker backgrounds. I'd shoot a few dives in auto to get used to the camera, then I'd switch to manual and leave it there... Try to shoot one style at a time and focus on the settings. What I mean is shoot fish portraits on a dive, then shoot macro on another dive... See what works for you.... what is critical is how you place your strobes... The edge of the light beam is the better light.. don't point the strobes directly at your subject... try to have just the inner edges cover the critter... With the DS-50's you will have limited strobe coverage but you can get some good fish portraits and macro. You may want to see how grainy your images become as you up the ISO... you may not have enough strobe power for f8 but if you increase the ISO you can get some more light. As Tigerman said, shoot in RAW and you can correct some of the White Balance issues you'll run into which is a real problem. You could also do manual white balancing but I found it to be too much task loading...many do MWB...

Have fun! I hope it all works out!

Sean
 
I also have a G10 housing and Ikelite strobes. I'll be doing a few shore dives the last week of January. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Please let me know what you find out. I will hopefully use it on December 27th in some clear Florida springs. I am going to try the settings Ikelite suggests, along with some of those suggested by people who posted here. I will report back with
the results.

I also have a G10 housing and Ikelite strobes. I'll be doing a few shore dives the last week of January. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Using manual mode will give you much better results because you have both the aperture and shutter speed that you can use to get the exposure and effects right.. With a 1/60, there are going to be several shots that will be hard to get except for wide angle and even then if you want to capture sun rays those will be harder to get.

The real issue with the G9 and G10 is that in manual mode, you DON'T have TTL. You will have to set the strobes manual also. Not sure why canon did this, but they did and so you'll have to keep that in mind when shooting in manual.
 
If you use manual mode and use the DS51 strobe do you need to use an Ikelite manual controller to fire the strobe or will the hot shoe cause the strobe to fire?
 
No, you do not have to use the manual controller...if you have the Ikelite case, and the sync cord, it will work just fine. I am using two DS 51's with the dual sync cord and it works fine in auto or manual.

If you use manual mode and use the DS51 strobe do you need to use an Ikelite manual controller to fire the strobe or will the hot shoe cause the strobe to fire?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom