Made some weights

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426Scuba

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I tried my first go at making my own weights today. Things went ok, but I did learn allot.
1. Don’t try and use a Coleman camping stove it works but the more heat the better.
2. Get a good cast iron melting pot. I had one but could not use it because it would not stand up on the Coleman grate.
3. Get that darn mould as hot as you can. I think next time I will use my toster oven to keep the mould around 375*
4. Have a torch with map gas handy I used it to smooth the tops after the pour it worked very well.
5. Try and not get the stick on weights from the tire shop. It was the only weights the guy would give me so I took them, but next time I will search more for the clip-on style. It was just too darn stinky.
6. Make sure and have a level surface to pour onto a couple are a little lopsided.

Here are some pictures:
 
Nice Job, I used to cast my weights with a similar mold. I had a two burner coleman and an old cast iron fry pan. I'd put the mold over one burner to warm and heat 5# lead ignots the plumbers would give me on jobsite. When melted down I'd skim the impurities from the top, move the mold to a level surface and pour. After 30yrs. I still have a couple laying around. Watch it, I liked casting so much I got into pouring fishing jigs and lead bullets. The map gas is a good idea.
 
A cutting torch makes quick work of lead melting, melt enough for a pour but not a lot more. Skim the slag with a dry stick.
Trick for warming the mould when using a cutting torch for lead melting: Turn off the O2 & carbon the critter up, when preheated enough the carbon black burns off. Pay attention though, heating much more & you're approaching the failure temp of the aluminum casting.
Stand perpendicular to the wind direction, back to the wind causes a "burble" that can circulate the fumes back to you.
Do not overheat the lead; it causes excessive shrinkage & crystallization.
Do not wear tongs or sandals, if anything, go barefoot. :wink:
 
gajeep94yj:
what's the purpose of making your own? to save money?

For the fun of it mostly. And I can't see paying 2-4 bucks a pound for lead I can get for free. Plus I will never think twice about dropping a weight. I figure I have $40.00 into what I needed to do this so say if I make 20 pounds it’s paid for and any other weight is a bonus. I may just make some extra and sell them for a buck a pound.
 
Thanks for the great post Scuba. It so happens that I bought a mold last year and am scrounging the garage sales for a old pan to use. I got tired of the weights I loan out not coming back. I got the idea a couple of years ago when I found a 40 lb down rigger lead ball and recovered it. Since then I have about 15 lbs of fishing lures I have found and want to use. I will let you know if mine come out as good as yours.

I have a turkey fryer burner set up that I was going to use. I think the lead will heat up faster.

Charles
:D
 
Aquanautchuck:
Thanks for the great post Scuba. It so happens that I bought a mold last year and am scrounging the garage sales for a old pan to use. I got tired of the weights I loan out not coming back. I got the idea a couple of years ago when I found a 40 lb down rigger lead ball and recovered it. Since then I have about 15 lbs of fishing lures I have found and want to use. I will let you know if mine come out as good as yours.

I have a turkey fryer burner set up that I was going to use. I think the lead will heat up faster.

Charles
:D
Like others have posted just be sure to have a thick AL pot or cast iron. I used a thin tin cup and the sides kept getting hard. Try a camping store I found a smaller cast iron melting pot that will hold about 10 lbs of lead for $8.00 at Fleet Farm. FYI Walmart also had some cast iron pots & pans. I'm sure you will have plenty of heat with that turkey fryer, just make sure not to overheat.

And like I said the trick to make them look good is the map gas.
 
Lead's fumes are poisoning....add a #
1. Don’t try and use a Coleman camping stove it works but the more heat the better.
2. Get a good cast iron melting pot. I had one but could not use it because it would not stand up on the Coleman grate.
3. Get that darn mould as hot as you can. I think next time I will use my toster oven to keep the mould around 375*
4. Have a torch with map gas handy I used it to smooth the tops after the pour it worked very well.
5. Try and not get the stick on weights from the tire shop. It was the only weights the guy would give me so I took them, but next time I will search more for the clip-on style. It was just too darn stinky.
6. Make sure and have a level surface to pour onto a couple are a little lopsided.
7.aspirator for the fumes
 
gajeep94yj:
what's the purpose of making your own? to save money?

Hey, I admit it, I'm cheap. Diving cold water requires more weight. Having two other divers in your family requires a LOT more weight. I couldn't see spending $2 a pound on weights when I had several hundred pounds of old tire weights at work.
Like Bob, I use a regular welding torch kit, and tire weights (stickies, clip on, plastic coated, whatever). I'll heat up a batch in an old metal GM torque converter cover (you car guys will know what one is), held in place between two old chevy cylinder heads standing on end. The melted lead drips through the hole in the bottom while the clips stay up top. When the whole thing cools, throw away the dirt and steel clips. The mold is just propped up under the hole and the lead comes out surprisingly clean, with the junk staying in the cover.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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