Just another P-Valve thread

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subaqueous

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Location
New York, NY
# of dives
200 - 499
I'll preface that I've read extensively through the library of threads of P-Valves here and on other sites. I purchased my widebands and the fit seems good, but one question still remains for myself, the uninitiated:

How much open space should there be at the tip of the condom catheter? There's about 1'' between me and the base of the exit that I would attach to my quick disconnect. There's no excess adhesive exposed so I'm not worried about it closing off and sealing against itself, but should I be worried about the extra space pinching down?

I'm using a balanced Light Monkey P-Valve, which, from what I understand should prevent any pinching from occurring.

Thanks in advance for keeping me dry!
 
“You” should fill as much of the inside as possible and trim off about 1/2 of the nipple than the barb goes into, the nipple is to long most of the time and can kink over and stop flow. Extra space between “you” and the nipple can also kink but rarely stops flow.
 
I'll preface that I've read extensively through the library of threads of P-Valves here and on other sites. I purchased my widebands and the fit seems good, but one question still remains for myself, the uninitiated:

How much open space should there be at the tip of the condom catheter? There's about 1'' between me and the base of the exit that I would attach to my quick disconnect. There's no excess adhesive exposed so I'm not worried about it closing off and sealing against itself, but should I be worried about the extra space pinching down?

I'm using a balanced Light Monkey P-Valve, which, from what I understand should prevent any pinching from occurring.

Thanks in advance for keeping me dry!

Really not trying to be graphic but not sure how else to explain it. First I cut the "nipple" of the catheter so only the barb fits in there and there isn't any excess space, otherwise I've had it kink. I then take the "cranium" and try to roll it up into the tip of the catheter as far as it will go. I'm usually left with maybe 1/4" of space in there? It sounds more complicated than it is. It usually takes me longer to find the barb than to put the catheter on.

Does that make sense? It's what works for me.
 
Really not trying to be graphic but not sure how else to explain it. First I cut the "nipple" of the catheter so only the barb fits in there and there isn't any excess space, otherwise I've had it kink. I then take the "cranium" and try to roll it up into the tip of the catheter as far as it will go. I'm usually left with maybe 1/4" of space in there? It sounds more complicated than it is. It usually takes me longer to find the barb than to put the catheter on.

Does that make sense? It's what works for me.

Got it - I'll give rolling it up a shot to get a better fit. Thanks!
 
I do exactly what @rob.mwpropane does.

How much to trim off the nipple depends on the length of the barb. To figure it out, try putting the catheter on first, getting yourself as far inside it as you can. Then insert the barb al the way, and notice that there's like half an inch of space in there, and you can easily make a kink in it. Remove the barb, trim a bit off the nipple, repeat until the gap between the barb and you cannot easily kink. For the barb that came with my Light Monkey P-valve, that's about one finger-width of nipple remaining post-trim.

Best of luck.
 
Here's what I'm understanding from everyone - the 1'' gap from me to the base of the nipple shouldn't be a major issue? I can try rolling the condom up for a closer fit, but I don't know if that's going to help. Trim the tip of the exit tube so the barb extends to the base of the nipple.

upload_2021-5-13_13-50-19.png
 
Here's what I'm understanding from everyone - the 1'' gap from me to the base of the nipple shouldn't be a major issue? I can try rolling the condom up for a closer fit, but I don't know if that's going to help. Trim the tip of the exit tube so the barb extends to the base of the nipple.

View attachment 658966

The gap (to me) doesn't matter as much as cutting some of the end off. I try to get my member up in there, but sometimes he gets glued before making it all the way. So yes, there's a gap, but the catheter itself is pretty stable around that part, unlike the tube which can and has kinked (for me).

I just hold the catheter up to the barb and mark where to cut with my finger then use teeth, scissors, knife, whatever.
 
The barb may extend to the base of the nipple as you say, but it can extend further than that if needed. Get yourself as far into cup side as you reasonably can, trim half an inch or so off the nipple, and see if that puts it close enough that the cath cannot easily kink.

But I mean, don't over-think it. With good routing, the hose won't want to kink on you anyway. Mine goes up, out my undergarments' zipper, up toward my chest, and then bends down toward the valve on my thigh. Depending on your undies, you might need to route differently. BTW, it wasn't immediately obvious to me that the P-valve can be rotated to facilitate better routing. Just loosen the nut a little with a C-wrench, move the hose, re-tighten (no need to over-tighten).
 
Sorry for bumping the thread, but how do you deal with disconnect spillage? I know there are QD with one way valve in female part, but what about male part of QD?
 
Sorry for bumping the thread, but how do you deal with disconnect spillage? I know there are QD with one way valve in female part, but what about male part of QD?

Use a towel or a rag underneath, then tip it forward and let the little bit come out. If you can get the line in a position to let gravity do its job before disconnecting that helps a lot also.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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