3D printing...

[txgoose]

@The Chairman , did you ever decide a price point on the second stage cap?

 

[emoreira]

Ok... I'm impatient, took care of it while I should be getting ready for work! Files are added at Thingiverse. I did not print them... but the critical fit pieces are unchanged .

I've got the parts printed with ABS 100% fill and 0.1 mm layers.
Threads are so little !!!
I will try them in a BCD blader.

 

[James79]

I've got the parts printed with ABS 100% fill and 0.1 mm layers.
Threads are so little !!!
I will try them in a BCD blader.
View attachment 504578
View attachment 504579

Let me know if you need any further adjustment to the design!

 

[MichaelMc]

My suggestion for 3D printing is a regulator attachment point for the bungee necklace.

Tying the necklace bungee around the mouth piece seems to contribute to one side or the other of the bungee being across the mouthpiece when I go to clear it. Though I may just be doing it wrong....

Tying the bungee to say the adjustment knob shaft and the hose coupling spreads the bungee apart and seems to eliminate any tangle between the mouthpiece wing tabs and the bungee. This works, but reduces the adjustment range and does not easily support ripping the reg out of the bungee.

A vintage regulator I have came with a stiff oval leather piece that fits around the metal mouthpiece before the rubber part is added. It has snaps for a necklace which attaches an inch or so to the side of the mouthpiece body.

Seems like something like that, in semi stiff rubber or plastic, would be a good idea, and might support some type of breakaway. The Poseidon xStream has two tabs for bungee attachment, thought they are still rather close to the mouthpiece.

Just an idea, for any of the CAD and printing corps.

 

[JohnnyC]

My suggestion for 3D printing is a regulator attachment point for the bungee necklace.

Tying the necklace bungee around the mouth piece seems to contribute to one side or the other of the bungee being across the mouthpiece when I go to clear it. Though I may just be doing it wrong....

Tying the bungee to say the adjustment knob shaft and the hose coupling spreads the bungee apart and seems to eliminate any tangle between the mouthpiece wing tabs and the bungee. This works, but reduces the adjustment range and does not easily support ripping the reg out of the bungee.

A vintage regulator I have came with a stiff oval leather piece that fits around the metal mouthpiece before the rubber part is added. It has snaps for a necklace which attaches an inch or so to the side of the mouthpiece body.

Seems like something like that, in semi stiff rubber or plastic, would be a good idea, and might support some type of breakaway. The Poseidon xStream has two tabs for bungee attachment, thought they are still rather close to the mouthpiece.

Just an idea, for any of the CAD and printing corps.

Check out TinkerCAD. It's free and web-based. Try building what you need there.

 

[emoreira]

Let me know if you need any further adjustment to the design!

Do you have the specs of the two threads ?

 

[James79]

Do you have the specs of the two threads ?

All the threads are 1.25 mm pitch, inner flange threaded section is 26.5 mm diameter. Outer flange outer thread is 47 mm diameter

 

[emoreira]

All the threads are 1.25 mm pitch, inner flange threaded section is 26.5 mm diameter. Outer flange outer thread is 47 mm diameter

Thanks James, I've been playing a little with FreeCAD. I did my new models of inner and outer flanges. They do not need to be like the original DGX pieces, but the cap should fit, also the flange to the power inflator. I had to create the threads form scratch.
I also installed Repetier host to slice and get the gcode for the printer.
What did surprise me is that the Slicer complained of the stl not being "watertight".
The Repetier host recommended to use 3D Tools to fix the model and make it "watertight", but the new model is of the .3mf type instead of .stl
FreeCAD does not support .3mf files, though Repetier host does, so I could do the gcode files for the printer.
Here GCode Viewer I could see how the 3D printer will print the gcode file. It takes time.
From what I read in the forums, it seems that many people uses those services to check for "watertightness" of the stl models.
I also tried using the fusion tool of FreeCAD, but, I don't know why, the flange is "destroyed" after the fusion task.
The way I created the main body flange in FreeCAD is using the tool Revolution. Then I added the threads with helix.

 

[JohnnyC]

Fusion360 is free for home hobby use and does a really good job of modeling threads. It has a boatload of standardized thread forms.

 

[James79]

Thanks James, I've been playing a little with FreeCAD. I did my new models of inner and outer flanges. They do not need to be like the original DGX pieces, but the cap should fit, also the flange to the power inflator. I had to create the threads form scratch.
I also installed Repetier host to slice and get the gcode for the printer.
What did surprise me is that the Slicer complained of the stl not being "watertight".
The Repetier host recommended to use 3D Tools to fix the model and make it "watertight", but the new model is of the .3mf type instead of .stl
FreeCAD does not support .3mf files, though Repetier host does, so I could do the gcode files for the printer.
Here GCode Viewer I could see how the 3D printer will print the gcode file. It takes time.
From what I read in the forums, it seems that many people uses those services to check for "watertightness" of the stl models.
I also tried using the fusion tool of FreeCAD, but, I don't know why, the flange is "destroyed" after the fusion task.
The way I created the main body flange in FreeCAD is using the tool Revolution. Then I added the threads with helix.

I have a long way to go learning FreeCad.... and unfortunately limited time to play with it. For water tight issues on the stl files, I use NetFabb ( free online tool). 9 times out of 10 it fixes the stl. As to why it happens.... seventypurple? I've exported the same design to stl twice and had watertight issues on one but not the other. Don't know why though