30 or 40 lb wing?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Its a little late in the evening, but I think that in your above example, the tank, reg, and plate = -18lbs. The suit is +28lbs. -18+28=10. You'd need ~16lbs on the belt to compensate for the remainder and the gas from an empty tank to be neutral with an empty. -18+(-16)=-34. I believe 35lbs to be the required wing size, thereabouts, which can certainly float your rig and weightbelt or however you choose to mount your weights without the diver present.

Nope.

If the rig is -18 and the suit is +28, a 30 lbs wing is enough.

Remember this is a single tank rig with a suit of significant buoyancy.

Tobin

---------- Post added December 28th, 2015 at 10:48 PM ----------

Thanks for the answers!
I want the tecline donut 15 (30lbs) or the tecline donut 17 (40lbs)

12 litre steel single tank.
I have a drysuit, primary cablelamp and a weightbelt with 8 kg lead.

Many people say go for the 30 lbs its more then enough.
Others say go for the 40 lbs.

Really dont know anymore. So many People so many opinions i understand.

But its a lot of money for me and since its my first bP/w i really want to make a good choice!

;)

You still have provided the buoyancy numbers for your cylinder. How negative is it when it is full? and when empty?

Tobin
 
Depending on the dry suit and the undies you can go from 20-40# lead required. I have a tls350 and with 300 g undies I takes 39# and with 100 g undies I need 19#. So you need to plan for a flooded suit on top of your other negatives. so not only flooded suit being a consideration ditchable weight will be on the list also.
 
30# wing donut. i use for 12L steel with drysuit and i also use it for 11.1L ali in wetsuit and 15L steel in wetsuit.

---------- Post added December 29th, 2015 at 11:17 AM ----------

i have a ss backplate and add 5kg for drysuit diving.
 
@Rusty Liam booth
How much kg lead you take with you when diving 12 liter in drysuit?

---------- Post added December 29th, 2015 at 08:24 AM ----------

Nope.

If the rig is -18 and the suit is +28, a 30 lbs wing is enough.

Remember this is a single tank rig with a suit of significant buoyancy.

Tobin

---------- Post added December 28th, 2015 at 10:48 PM ----------



You still have provided the buoyancy numbers for your cylinder. How negative is it when it is full? and when empty?

Tobin

I dont really understand what you mean?
Im sorry im a beginner haha.

Do you mean how heavy my tank is when full or empty?
 
I dont really understand what you mean? Im sorry im a beginner haha.

Do you mean how heavy my tank is when full or empty?
Not exactly. But, you are asking a good question, and it is more than 'OK' to be a beginner - we have all been there at some point. This is just the place to ask questions.

What posters are asking is what are the buoyancy characteristics of the particular cylinder you dive. Buoyancy will reflect both the weight of the cylinder (and valve, and contents), and the displacement of the cylinder. As an example, look at the table on this page (Scuba Cylinder Specification Chart from Huron Scuba, Ann Arbor Michigan). If you look at various steel cylinders, you see that empty weight may not reflect the in-water buoyancy characteristics - e.g. two low pressure steel 80cf cylinders, from different manufacturers, may have different empty weights, but the heavier cylinder may actually be more buoyant (or, less negatively buoyant). So, do you know the buoyancy characteristics of the 12L cylinder(s) you dive? Or, the manufacturer of the particular cylinder?
 
You can guesstimate pretty well the buoyancy characteristics of any tank. You need the water volume of the tank, the weight of the tank (on land) and the tank material. For my tanks, the weight of the tank is stamped on the shoulder.

The displacement of the tank is inner volume plus weight divided by the density of the material. So, for one of my steel (density: 7.8 kg/dm3) 10L tanks it's:

Weight (stamped on the neck): 15.4 kg
Displacement: 10 + 15.4/7.8 = 12.0L, gross buoyancy in saltwater: 12.0L*1.03 kg/dm3 = 12.3 kp
Gas capacity is 2750L, so the weight of the gas when full is 2750*0.0012 = 3.3kg

Excluding the weight of the valve and my reg set, this tank is 15.4+3.3-12.3 = -6.4 kg buoyant when full, and 15.4-12.3 = -3.1 kg buoyant when completely empty. Add 1 to 1.5 kg to the total negative buoyancy for the weight of the valve, and you're definitely in the right ballpark.
 
Would you mind explaining the downsides of "hybrid monstrosities"? For someone looking at their first BP&W, with an eye to diving doubles in the future, a hybrid sounds kind of nice.

I wouldn't mind one bit ... having gone through that particular line of thinking myself with my first wing purchase. The downsides, simply put, is that the wing is designed to accommodate both singles and doubles ... and therefore is not optimal for either. The shape of a doubles wing is different than the shape of a singles wing for a reason, and in order to accommodate both they have to design it somewhere in the middle. They do this by making the flat, middle panel of the wing wider than you'd want on a singles rig, and using bungees to pull the wing toward the center panel. For singles, tightening the bungees reduces the degree of taco'ing you'll get around the sides of the tank. But in so doing they also put creases in the wing in places where it will trap air, making it more difficult to vent, and making the shape of the wing less streamlined than it needs to be. For use as a doubles wing, the compromises in shape in order to make it useable for singles reduces the effectiveness of the wing ... in some cases trapping the inner edges of the bladder between the tanks and backplate and therefore reducing the effective lift of the wing.

As with anything, when you make compromises in design to accommodate a wider range of uses, you give up making it optimal for any of the applications you're designing it for.

I started out with a Dive Rite Rec wing. Loved it, compared to the ScubaPro Superhawk BCD I'd been using previously ... up to the point where someone offered to let me try a dedicated singles wing. That's when I realized how much performance I'd been giving up in order to have this "hybrid" model. I borrowed a friend's doubles wing and tried it with my dual 119's, and realized how much performance I'd been giving up on that side as well. So I ditched the Rec wing and got a wing for each configuration (singles and doubles) and was much happier with the results.

YMMV ... for some, the cost savings is worth the compromise in performance. For me, it wasn't ... and that's what I meant by personal preference, and considering other factors. I suppose for those who haven't experienced the performance difference between a hybrid and a wing designed specifically for your configuration it won't much matter ... you won't miss what you've never had, after all. But for my choice, getting two dedicated wings was well worth the money.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
I dont really understand what you mean?
Im sorry im a beginner haha.

Do you mean how heavy my tank is when full or empty?

Cylinder buoyancy is a measure of how negative or positive a cylinder will be *in the water* The dry weight, i.e. in the the parking lot on the way to the water matters to who ever has to carry them, but it is not the number we need for wing selection.

It is most helpful to have these numbers for full and empty, but if we have one or the other and the working pressure of the tank the 2nd number can be calculated.

The european method of listing tanks by the internal volume of the tank, and not by the equivalent volume of gas they contain at their working pressure has some advantages for gas planning, but it complicates buoyancy calculations.

For example in the US a typical cylinder would be referred to as an "HP100" That means at it's working pressure, usually 3442 psi or 237 bar this tank will contain the equivalent of 100 cubic feet of gas at in atmosphere. Because the mass of a air is known, ~ 8 lbs / 100 cu ft one can easily determine the change in mass of this tank from full to empty.

With Euro tanks it is the internal volume of the tank that is specified. A "12 L" tank would hold 12 liters of water. What is the weight of the gas? To determine that we need to know the working pressure. A 12 L tank at 237 bar holds less gas than a 12 L tank at 300 bar.

Unfortunately the Huron Scuba site does not provide tank info for "euro" designated cylinders.

You might have to dig a little. Look at the websites for the tank manufacturer. If we have the dry, empty weight of the tank, it's internal volume and the working pressure the magic of math will yield the buoyancy numbers.

Steel is ~495 lbs / cu ft. If we start with the empty weight of the tank we can calculate the volume of steel. Add that to the claimed internal volume and you have the total volume. Add the mass of the steel to the mass of the gas and you have the total mass. Mass / volume yields density. Comparing this density to the density of water and get the buoyancy.

A bit of work, but remember everything you get into the water with that does not float is part of your ballast, and your cylinder can be a huge chunk of that.

Alternatively you could directly test the buoyancy of your suit.

To test a wetsuit simply roll it up, making sure not to trap a huge bubble, throw it in the water and add lead until it just sinks, then weigh the lead. Typically you can start by wrapping a weight belt around the suit, and then tucking extra lead under the belt.

With a drysuit you need to put on your undergarment, the ones you plan to actually dive, and the suit. No other gear.

Jump into neck deep water holding a bag of lead. It's easier to start with more lead in the bag than you think you need.

Vent the suit.

Pick up your feet. If you sink remove some lead from the bag. Stop when you just barely sink.

Weigh the lead. This represents the buoyancy of your drysuit with minimum gas in it, assuming a reasonably fit diver.

This is directly the number you need to be able to compensate for if you suffered a total failure of your suit.

Knowing the actual buoyancy of your exposure suits not only allows you to select wing, it's a huge help in getting properly weighted.

Good luck,

Tobin
 
i don't really know????

i can weigh it when i get home.
 
my steel 12 fabers are 13.4kgs. Some 12l euro cylinders around 14.5kgs.
 

Back
Top Bottom