Sea & Sea YS-27DX questions

[AleG]

I'm thinking of buying a S&S YS-27DX strobe to go together with my Canon G11 camera, I'm tired of having so much "snow" on my photos from using the camera flash.

I haven't used an external UW strobe yet so I'd better start to get a grip on the matter before I start spending money on it.
First off, I'm not sure about the YS-27DX sync cable, I assume it simply triggers the strobe but it doesn't sync the duration of the flash, the strobe just fires whichever manual setting was dialed in, correct?

I've eyed the YS-110a because my understanding is that it can actually sync the flash pulse to the camera metered flash, so it doesn't need to be manually adjusted to get the appropriate exposure, again am I correct?

So, assuming I have the YS-27DX, and I want to shoot something I should adjust the strobe strength based on some charts or is it one of those things one learns by trial and error?

To be honest I'm a bit torn between either the 110 or the 27, but I don't know if the difference between the strobes is worth the price considering it's going to be used with a WD-34 case and a fiber optic sync cable; so if you can weight in on the merits of choosing one or the other you are welcome.

Any suggestions and input would be very appreciated, I'm going on a live aboard trip to the Similan and Surin islands on New Year so I'd like to have my camera gear ready by then.

 

[Ardy]

Depends how much you want to spend. I bought a 110a about a year ago for $440 and now they are about $640 dont know why but they are. It is a fine flash and will do everything you want it to. If you only use TTL then you might need a flash that can supply that for you and I think both of these flashes do. If I was doing it again with the 110a at its current price I would most probably buy an Inon Z240 for about $80 more than the 110a. An Inon S2000 is an alternative you might want to look at.

If you take photo's in manual mode why not buy yourself a cheap sea n sea YS 50 (or similar) for less than $100, there was one on ebay for $50 last week and get used to that before you spend a fair amount on a flash when you are not sure what you want? Once you are good at using a manual flash you can use any flash. Most photographers use flash in manual mode. The disadvantage of something like a YS 50 is that there is no output adjustment so you need to use f-stop and shutter speed.

A flash in manual mode works the same on any camera. On the other hand flashes travel with you from camera to camera and if you have the money then buy the best you can afford.

 

[AleG]

Boo-hoo, the YS-27DX is out of stock at the shop I want to buy it, so it's a moot point now.

They offered me a set with the YS-01 instead (strobe, arm and cable); at 850 US dollars is rather expensive though, specially since I saw the video on the Sea & Sea showcasing the YS-01 and I was underwhelmed. Maybe it's just those particular photos, but the flash didn't seem to be able to cope with anything but very close up photos, well into macro territory.
They also had a set with the YS-110a, for close to a thousand dollars... all too far from the $560 for the YS-27DX.

Oh... decisions, decisions... :bonk:

 

[AleG]

I found a dive shop that sells the Inon S-2000 strobe, that looks nice too. Specially since it can operate on TTL mode and doesn't need an optic fiber cable to sync (although the reviews I've read say it can be a bit temperamental). So much more versatile than the YS-27DX and only a bit more expensive. I send an e-mail to check if the have it in stock or else I'll drop by the shop to check in person tomorrow.
Fingers crossed.

 

[under water]

I have used the YS-27DX and the S-2000. If you are buying new I suggest that you go the s-2000 route. You will find it a pleasure to use. You can use the sTTL to get a pretty good exposure every time. Eventually you will probably want to use manual sometimes which you can do with the s-2000, but you can aways adjust the sTTl up or down as well.
If you can find a used YS-27DX cheap, that might be a good option too. I haven't seen people selling used s-2000s yet.
If you want to insure a reliable strobe firing every time, I would get the FO cable rather than rely on the strobe's sensor. It does work well if you are using a clear plastic housing, but then you will be getting backscatter from the flash. Covering up the flash except for a small opening for the FO cable will reduce/eliminate backscatter (from the flash), you still have to be careful about where you put the strobe.

In manual mode, I wouldn't worry about charts. Just start with a setting , do a few test shots and dial it in. Adjust up and down for how close you are to your subject. With manual, you have the flexibility of adjusting the exposure time to change the water column color from pale blue to black, if you want.

 

[Ardy]

hi I noticed that there are 2 second hand YS 110a's being sold separately on ebay USA. You might want to try and get one of those.

There is another ebay shop from the Philippines that is selling inon stobes at a very good price. Don't know what the seller is like and I have never bought anything from Philippines.

 

[AleG]

I just ordered an Inon S-2000, I should get it in a day or two.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

 

[AleG]

Strobe arrived, early Christmas!

My Canon G11 is with a friend somewhere in France, so I only have my Canon 550D to test the strobe with (no UW housing though), the wireless S-TTL seems to work really well, it follows the 550D flash perfectly, even when it uses many quick bursts (not just one or two) to do the metering. Works with or without the periscope thing too, just the optic fiber stub is able to pick the flash; in fact it's even more sensitive to the flash that way, it triggers the strobe even with the optic fiber port placed behind the strobe, so just the bounce light from the flash in the room triggers it.

Also I got lucky because I have the correct size of stainless steel screw to fix the strobe to my DIY arm and tray, it's an M6 x 1.0 if you want to know (metric screw size, 6mm diameter, 1mm thread pitch). By the way, the magnet thingy uses an M5 x 0.8 screw, which I also have at hand.

 

[dirtfarmer]

Here's a heads up for you. The NiMH batteries off gas when discharging, and even after charging. The gas reacts with high humidity and when left sealed over small time a small corrosive environment develops, which can set the batteries off ruining the whole thing. I *#*#(% up an S-2000 since I didn't remove the ca. When back in my room I always unscrew the cap, and I try not to put batteries fresh warm off the charger in it.

Other than that enjoy the S-2000.

 

[Divernoob]

Here's a heads up for you. The NiMH batteries off gas when discharging, and even after charging. The gas reacts with high humidity and when left sealed over small time a small corrosive environment develops, which can set the batteries off ruining the whole thing. I *#*#(% up an S-2000 since I didn't remove the ca. When back in my room I always unscrew the cap, and I try not to put batteries fresh warm off the charger in it.

Other than that enjoy the S-2000.

What is a "small time?" I use Eneloops in my strobe and change them between days of diving, but not right after I get off the boat. Haven't had a problem, but I'm not sure if Eneloops are NiMH.