G 11 housing question

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gobylvr

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Location
Choctaw, Oklahoma, United States
# of dives
100 - 199
I have been talking to my local dive shop and he has told me that if you take continuos pictures that the canon housing will fog up due to the heat from the camera. He suggests going with the Ikelite housing which is bigger and allows for more air movement around the camera.
Has anyone had problems with the Canon DC 34 housing fogging or flooding ?
Is the Ikelite housing less prone to flooding ? I know you can hook up a TTL strobe to the Ikelite which does make it a little more appealing. But I am having a little difficulty with the difference in price. Also any input on a good inexpensive TTL strobe would be appreciated also.
Please , Let me know what ya all think. I dont mind spending the extra money if there are good reasons behind it.

Thanks ya all
Liz
 
I have the G10 and Canon housing. I don't think I've ever noticed fogging. But I also drop a couple of the little blue desiccant capsules in the case too and replace them when they turn pinkish. There is plenty of room in the Canon case for these things.
 
I'd second Vondo's call on the silca gel. Never a trace of fog in my G-10 Canon housing after 80-90 minute dives and hundreds of shots (hint: set the G11 flash to minimum output!) I'm cheap--I toss the silca gel paks in the microwave after a few days or week or whatever and reuse them.

The only strobes you can run TTL on an Ikelite are...Ikelite strobes. Huh, wonder why? I'm not knocking Ikelites but if you question paying 3x the price of a Canon housing you should buy the Canon housing. Any housing can leak but being careful and doing good preventive maintenence will reduce the risk factor.

Would you settle for 2 out of 3 on your strobe wishes? You can get good + ttl, or good + cheap (kinda). Good + ttl would be an Inon S2000 which may not be true ttl, using a fiber optic cable like you would have to w/ a Canoin housing) but it seems to work very well for folks. For good + cheap I'd suggest a Sea & Sea YS27DX. Though there are less expensive stobes, the 27DX is a very solid choice for the $$. I guess there is the "no good, no ttl" option but lets not go there.

I'm chronically amazed how the industry has buffaloed folks into thinking it's nigh impossible to shoot manually uw w/ an external strobe but oh well. I shoot a G-10 w/ a YS110A in a Canon housing and I'm always in manual. Not to impress anyone but simply because it's so dang simple! / ww
 
ike housing much stronger..depth rating on it is 200'..what is the depth rating on the Cannon?
The ike housing lets you access all the cameras features-has a hot shoe for the strobe.If you go with the Cannon housing that is fine,but you paid for features on the camera that you cannot access using the Cannon housing.
 
And what camera features would those be, besides hardwired ttl? The Canon housing is good down to recreational depth limits--130'. Not saying the Canon housing is as good as the Ike but it is not 3 times "less good", even if it is 3 times less expensive. If one can afford the best there are better housings but if not, the Canon housing is a very suitable one--at least in my experience. // ww
 
I have a G11 and the Cannon housing. I have fogged on 1 dive due to my own fault. I left it open on deck when I went to my cabin to get a battery. I'm going to add a few dessicant packs next trip.

So far I have only taken Ambient light and then a few pics with the internal flash diffused with the Cannon supplied diffuser. Currently shooting JPG with WB at depth. Working toward Manual and a strobe just taking baby steps to get there.
 
I have had a few instances of fogged housings with an Oly SP-350 and a Sony P-5. The housings are of a similar camera to housing size as your Canon set up. It's best to load your camera in an airconditioned room or vehicle. Be sure the vehicle has been running for a while so the air has dried out. Dessicant packs are also a good idea, but work over time, not instantly. Keep your camera out of direct sunlight.

If you have to open your housing to change a battery in a humid environment, consider closing it while blowing tank air into the housing. You can barely crack a tank valve for a mild stream of air. That air is really dry and will displace humid ambient air.
 
Never had a fog proble,m. I have a G11 and the Cannon housing and use the silica gel capsules.
 
And what camera features would those be, besides hardwired ttl? The Canon housing is good down to recreational depth limits--130'. Not saying the Canon housing is as good as the Ike but it is not 3 times "less good", even if it is 3 times less expensive. If one can afford the best there are better housings but if not, the Canon housing is a very suitable one--at least in my experience. // ww

yes you loose ttl via a sync cord. Heat build up in Cannon housing can cause condensation in housing.With the ike you can shut off the cameras built in strobe and eliminate the heat build up.Shutting off the strobe on the camera also increases battery life.
TTL is a good tool to use.Once you have your desired aperature setting you can use the shutter speed to lighten/darken the background of an image and the ttl will control the exposure on the subject correctly without you having to play with the power settings/or strobe distance to subject to get correct exposure.
As you said "not saying the Cannon housing is as good as the ike"-you get what you pay for.
 
Speaking of the G11, can someone explain to me the difference in videos takes underwater between the G11 and G10 (assuming both are being using with the canon housing)

Thanks !
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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