Apeks DS4 Tools

[mr_v]

Hello everyone!

I purchased an Apeks spanner, AT30, as described in the official guide. However, my tool does not sit as flush as show in the picture below:

There is a substantial gap between the spanner and the body. However, the tool fits the diaphragm cap without issues. What am I doing wrong? Thank you!

Here is how the spanner fits the environmental cap:

And here is how it fits the diaphragm:

 

[Tracy]

The pin has to be adjusted. The cap doesn't have as deep of a hole.

 

[flymolo]

I believe mine is similar to yours. Maybe you can file down the pin a bit but I think I just came to accept the fact that the tool marks the reg up a bit

 

[Mobulai]

Maybe you can file down the pin a bit

I don’t like that idea — unless that tool will be reserved for DS4/DST caps only

Otherwise I’d just pad the gap with some fabric/sponge/bits of leather(old belt)

 

[steinbil]

The pin has to be adjusted. The cap doesn't have as deep of a hole.

I'm pretty sure this is why @rsingler recommended I get the Scubatools hook spanner with interchangeable pins - you can adjust how much the pin protrudes to get it to sit flush. Removing the diaphragm clamp is still my least favorite part of servicing the Apeks DS4/DST, since you have to use a lot of force to open it when it's seized up, and the hook/pin spanners can slip easily and scratch your reg and your hands. I much prefer the FST/FSR diaphragm clamp.

Edited to add:
Also remember you should have 2 of these spanners, as you want to torque/unscrew the environmental cap separately from the diaphragm clamp. Really need 3 hands + a vice to do this comfortably...

 

[Mobulai]

Removing the diaphragm clamp is still my least favorite part of servicing the Apeks DS4/DST, since you have to use a lot of force to open it when it's seized up,

I have a DS4 main clamp/ environmental clamp sitting in the freezer for almost a couple of weeks now (goes out regularly for a warm bath)

I wouldn’t mind it if it wasn’t the case that I got this reg to turn into an uncompensated one… it can seize up after that just need to put that derlin cap in

Luckily the main clamp / main body threads were easy to open up

 

[steinbil]

I have a DS4 main clamp/ environmental clamp sitting in the freezer for almost a couple of weeks now (goes out regularly for a warm bath)

I know the feeling. The first DS4 I serviced was terrible. It had several bouts with the freezer. After a few rounds of that, and scratches on my hands from when the pin spanner slipped, I resorted to a hammer...

 

[rsingler]

I've come to the conclusion for the Apeks (and other brands like Deep6) that have a very shallow environmental cap wrench dimple, that the removal solution is a captive pin spanner, and as mentioned, a second hook spanner to hold the diaphragm clamp in place.

That is the only sure way to prevent pin skip.
It can't be over-emphasized that the env cap should go on hand tight, or with as little hook spanner tightening as possible. And I make a practice of heavily lubricating those threads.
If this worries you, the cap won't loosen even if barely torqued down because of the friction between the silicone diaphragm and the inner surface of the cap.
And if it does loosen? Just screw it back down the next time you pressurize the first stage. No big deal. And if it completely falls off, your reg still works just fine.

 

[steinbil]

It can't be over-emphasized that the env cap should go on hand tight, or with as little hook spanner tightening as possible. And I make a practice of heavily lubricating those threads.

I have noticed that if the environmental cap on my regs is just hand tight, the environmental chamber loses the negative pressure to keep the seal pulled in, and they start puffing out after a few dives. I haven't tried lubricating the threads though, that might make it easier to get a good seal without over tightening.

 

[Badger7]

I've come to the conclusion for the Apeks (and other brands like Deep6) that have a very shallow environmental cap wrench dimple, that the removal solution is a captive pin spanner, and as mentioned, a second hook spanner to hold the diaphragm clamp in place.

Since you really need two, any reason to avoid grinding half the pin off a second spanner so it makes full contact with the cap and the pin at the correct angle? Or are you saying the relatively shallow depth calls for a different tool to prevent slippage?