Just passed 5 am. Cradling fresh coffee, eyes on the East, watching the warm orange glow create a horizon on the slate gray canvas of morning. Slowly clawing, climbing and then cleaving sky from sea. To the west, cast in tangerine, The Rock. Roca Partida. Illuminating reality. Three days in and reality was just now making an appearance. We stood staring at the rock. Jutting fork-like out of the silken, lazy roll of the pacific. Listening to the swell peal away from barnacle and crag. Smelling salt, iodine, guano, the sea and stone. It was tactile, alive and real. It was finally real.
Cabo is an easy hop from Houston. We played it safe and arrived a day early. Make sure all the bags arrive and avoid any delays. Our gear was packed secure and neatly. In order to avoid taxation of camera gear I carried documentation suggested by Nautilus and prepared for a debate. It never came.
“What is the purpose of your visit?”.
-“Diving.”.
“Do you have a housing?”.
-“Yes we do.”.
“Welcome to Mexico.”.
I had secured a private transfer for our group of three. We waded thought the timeshare and taxi pitches and found our driver. Waiting exactly where he said he would be, on time, AC on an iced bottled water in hand. Full-size SUV with plenty of room for bodies and bags. At $80 I would not hesitate to recommend this route.
45 minutes later we arrived at Hotel Tesoro. A nice hotel, on the harbor. Our room was ready and waiting when we arrived. The room was clean, cool and looked over the boats and activities beyond. Though a steep flight of stairs after the elevator was unexpected. A minor inconvenience but with 90 pounds of bags….
The food at the in house restaurant was surprisingly good. The complimentary breakfast menu was better than expected offering American as well as traditional fare. Hot tip #1; if you sit at the seawall for your meal you will become very well acquainted with the locals selling their wares. “Jewelry? Hat for your dog? Cuban Cigars? Weed…blow?”. Your food will be cold with the repetitive “No thank you” muttered between bites. Move a few tables off the wall and the tradecraft disappears.
Centered in the harbor it was a good ground zero for exploration. An easy block and a half from the dive shop at which we would later drop our bags and sign in for the trip. Clubs and restaurants flanking the hotel and populating the streets as you move inland. For a holiday I would happily return. For our purposes, maybe not. We stayed one night, checked out as late as we could, dragged our gear to Sea Creature Dive shop and walked the harbor. We could have done the same, saved some money and stayed closer to Sea Creatures. It was a bit of hassle and a lot more money for a pretty morning view. Hot tip #2; The best meal we had was directly across from Sea Creatures. Mi Casa was fantastic. Unapologetic, authentic Mexican food. Attentive, professional staff catering to locals and tourists alike, in a clean, beautiful open air atmosphere.
After our foot tour of the harbor and the wonderful dining experience of Mi Casa we arrived back at Sea Creatures to sign wavers and watch a mandatory safety briefing/video. Safety is clearly a point of pride with the organization. It is taken seriously and handled professionally. You are left feeling secure in their competence and relaxed in the comfortable ease in which they conduct themselves. At once smiling, laughing, upbeat with the task focus of a well prepared team.
Earlier, when checking in and dropping our bags we were asked if a particular bag should be placed in our cabin or on deck. While the briefing is conducted the bags are shuttled to the boat. Those tagged for “cabin” are waiting for us in our assigned cabin. Those marked “deck”… well, you get it.
After the briefing we were all shuttled in newer, pre chilled transit vans to the dock. We walked down the dock to the beautiful white behemoth. The Belle Amie. She is something to behold as you board. Very clean. Very organized. A beautiful balance of workboat efficiency and strength tempered with comfortable luxury.
Step aboard her non skid deck and a champaign flute is placed in your hand. Beaming smiles and private toasts between friends as we are called to the main salon. A welcome and introduction briefing followed. Some basic rules of the house and a rundown of what will come. The welcome is sincere and the plans are clear and well practiced.
We were then taken in groups, by name, to our cabins. I was immediately taken by the size of the cabin. I’d seen pictures, read reviews and I know what a wide angle lens does to perspective. That said, the cabin was very comfortable and well appointed. I’d picked cabin C. It’s floor below water line and placed midship it should be the axis of both pitch and roll. This proved to be true. Though the view from the porthole is not amazing most travel takes place at night. Our cabin’s location offered considerable less sway than that of the decks above. On the first day, sitting in the salon while underway would render some queasy and uncomfortable. Even without a horizon retreating to the lower deck would grant some relief. Dramamine and a few days acclimation seemed to cure any residual discomfort.
We had been told that after we were settled into our cabins a general alarm would sound. It was the required fire drill. The signal was sounded and we grabbed our flotation vest from their homes in our cabin and headed to the dive deck. Lined up in our blocky vests, much like a human LEGO, we assembled and counted out our attendance. It was taken seriously and focus was requested as well as required. Then we were released to move about the cabin. Snacks, drinks and off to bed as we pushed off the dock.
That in itself was another surprise. If not for a shadow ghosting across our cabin wall I would not have known we were under way. I did not feel the engagement of gear or propulsion. I was unaware of the drone and rumble of the large diesels. The noise cancelling headphones and ear plugs I had packed proved unused excess. The Belle Amie was the most silent running vessel I’d ever had the pleasure of boarding. Though later, cheers and elated recounts of successful dives would ring loud.
Cabo is an easy hop from Houston. We played it safe and arrived a day early. Make sure all the bags arrive and avoid any delays. Our gear was packed secure and neatly. In order to avoid taxation of camera gear I carried documentation suggested by Nautilus and prepared for a debate. It never came.
“What is the purpose of your visit?”.
-“Diving.”.
“Do you have a housing?”.
-“Yes we do.”.
“Welcome to Mexico.”.
I had secured a private transfer for our group of three. We waded thought the timeshare and taxi pitches and found our driver. Waiting exactly where he said he would be, on time, AC on an iced bottled water in hand. Full-size SUV with plenty of room for bodies and bags. At $80 I would not hesitate to recommend this route.
45 minutes later we arrived at Hotel Tesoro. A nice hotel, on the harbor. Our room was ready and waiting when we arrived. The room was clean, cool and looked over the boats and activities beyond. Though a steep flight of stairs after the elevator was unexpected. A minor inconvenience but with 90 pounds of bags….
The food at the in house restaurant was surprisingly good. The complimentary breakfast menu was better than expected offering American as well as traditional fare. Hot tip #1; if you sit at the seawall for your meal you will become very well acquainted with the locals selling their wares. “Jewelry? Hat for your dog? Cuban Cigars? Weed…blow?”. Your food will be cold with the repetitive “No thank you” muttered between bites. Move a few tables off the wall and the tradecraft disappears.
Centered in the harbor it was a good ground zero for exploration. An easy block and a half from the dive shop at which we would later drop our bags and sign in for the trip. Clubs and restaurants flanking the hotel and populating the streets as you move inland. For a holiday I would happily return. For our purposes, maybe not. We stayed one night, checked out as late as we could, dragged our gear to Sea Creature Dive shop and walked the harbor. We could have done the same, saved some money and stayed closer to Sea Creatures. It was a bit of hassle and a lot more money for a pretty morning view. Hot tip #2; The best meal we had was directly across from Sea Creatures. Mi Casa was fantastic. Unapologetic, authentic Mexican food. Attentive, professional staff catering to locals and tourists alike, in a clean, beautiful open air atmosphere.
After our foot tour of the harbor and the wonderful dining experience of Mi Casa we arrived back at Sea Creatures to sign wavers and watch a mandatory safety briefing/video. Safety is clearly a point of pride with the organization. It is taken seriously and handled professionally. You are left feeling secure in their competence and relaxed in the comfortable ease in which they conduct themselves. At once smiling, laughing, upbeat with the task focus of a well prepared team.
Earlier, when checking in and dropping our bags we were asked if a particular bag should be placed in our cabin or on deck. While the briefing is conducted the bags are shuttled to the boat. Those tagged for “cabin” are waiting for us in our assigned cabin. Those marked “deck”… well, you get it.
After the briefing we were all shuttled in newer, pre chilled transit vans to the dock. We walked down the dock to the beautiful white behemoth. The Belle Amie. She is something to behold as you board. Very clean. Very organized. A beautiful balance of workboat efficiency and strength tempered with comfortable luxury.
Step aboard her non skid deck and a champaign flute is placed in your hand. Beaming smiles and private toasts between friends as we are called to the main salon. A welcome and introduction briefing followed. Some basic rules of the house and a rundown of what will come. The welcome is sincere and the plans are clear and well practiced.
We were then taken in groups, by name, to our cabins. I was immediately taken by the size of the cabin. I’d seen pictures, read reviews and I know what a wide angle lens does to perspective. That said, the cabin was very comfortable and well appointed. I’d picked cabin C. It’s floor below water line and placed midship it should be the axis of both pitch and roll. This proved to be true. Though the view from the porthole is not amazing most travel takes place at night. Our cabin’s location offered considerable less sway than that of the decks above. On the first day, sitting in the salon while underway would render some queasy and uncomfortable. Even without a horizon retreating to the lower deck would grant some relief. Dramamine and a few days acclimation seemed to cure any residual discomfort.
We had been told that after we were settled into our cabins a general alarm would sound. It was the required fire drill. The signal was sounded and we grabbed our flotation vest from their homes in our cabin and headed to the dive deck. Lined up in our blocky vests, much like a human LEGO, we assembled and counted out our attendance. It was taken seriously and focus was requested as well as required. Then we were released to move about the cabin. Snacks, drinks and off to bed as we pushed off the dock.
That in itself was another surprise. If not for a shadow ghosting across our cabin wall I would not have known we were under way. I did not feel the engagement of gear or propulsion. I was unaware of the drone and rumble of the large diesels. The noise cancelling headphones and ear plugs I had packed proved unused excess. The Belle Amie was the most silent running vessel I’d ever had the pleasure of boarding. Though later, cheers and elated recounts of successful dives would ring loud.
). Mid week I added a sharkskin T2 hood and was never even cool.
